- Location
- London
Well i've learned something there.
While confirming my view that mid range stuff is very often more sensible.
All praise the long pedal spanner.
Removing stuck pedals: shimano double-sided SPD
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While confirming my view that mid range stuff is very often more sensible.
All praise the long pedal spanner.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
Much easier if they have flats for a long pedal spanner,.but a lot of boiling water immediately before unscrewing them has worked for me in the past.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
Undoing, regressing, and redoing every so often can stop them seizing up.
rogerzilla
Legendary Member
That's like the best method of dealing with a stuck seatpost: go back in time and grease it thoroughly.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
CycleChat comes up trumps again. 
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
As regards pedal markings, the shaft of one pedal is knurled and the other smooth, enabling them to be told apart by feel.
This only applies to pedals with flats for a pedal spanner, the knurled or smooth part is on the curved part of the shaft.
The knurled pedal is the left, non-drive side one.
OP
OP
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Went to have a look, because I was curious.
Not the case on the Wellgos, but to be fair, they are repurposed cage pedals with the toe clips removed...
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
I have a pair of flat touring pedals which have a full hex - six flats - and no knurls.
The flat cheapo cage pedals on another bike have two flats - they do have knurls.
Wonder why anyone would use locktite, let alone the red one, for pedals. The thread directions alone prevent them from losening.
As was said, prevention is the recommended, when I buy a new bike I take them off, put oil on the thread, and back on. Dealers tend to deliver dry.
Post mortem, it's a matter of a long and sturdy key. I put the bicycle against the wall under a window, the pedal to lose up, the key on it, then while holding the window bank with a hand I step on the pedal with all weight, then I keep on pushing in intervals until it releases. Rammstein song Links 2 3 4 is a good background noise for it.
As was said, prevention is the recommended, when I buy a new bike I take them off, put oil on the thread, and back on. Dealers tend to deliver dry.
Post mortem, it's a matter of a long and sturdy key. I put the bicycle against the wall under a window, the pedal to lose up, the key on it, then while holding the window bank with a hand I step on the pedal with all weight, then I keep on pushing in intervals until it releases. Rammstein song Links 2 3 4 is a good background noise for it.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Noone has suggested that locktite was any part of this issue.
Please quote from upthread where anyone suggested that one could/should use locktite "let alone the red one" on pedal threads.
Read the thread, not just a random post.
Last edited:
youngoldbloke
The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
I ALWAYS use copper grease on pedal threads - then never have a problem unscrewing them.
I answered the last post, and my "let alone the red one" is an implication from the there mentioned "try heat", since it's the red Loctite requiring heating to break the bond.
ianc6472
Member
I only mentioned locktite due to the only other reasons for stuck so tight is cross thread or corrosion. Both of these would yield with pressure. Locktite would eventually yield, but as with cross thread, it would take out the threads, need tapping or a new crank and arm! So why not try heat? Surely this is better than taking out the cranks threads??? If heat doesn’t work what have lost?
