Removing back wheel...

[LosingFocus]

So, my luck rears its head again and I get a "p" on my 4th time out. so that makes it 50% of my rides have been cut short! Arse. (yes yes, BSO etc blah blah )

So, I guess I need to whip off the back wheel and sort out the problem with a new tube or repair the old one. OK, I can kind of remember how to get a tyre off and put a new tube in/repair a tube from my youth - but the art of divorcing a rear wheel from the bike is lost.

Can anyone give me a "Rear Wheel Removal 101" or a link to a detailed explanation?

Ta muchly.

 

[Globalti]

Set the chain on the smallest cog. If you've got rim brakes, unhitch the straddle wire or release the cam thingy. Loosen the QR and pull the derailleur backwards towards the rear of the bike, pulling the wheel out at the same time. If there's a handy pin on the seatstay, hang the chain on that.

If you keep suffering deflations, check the tyre minutely for embedded glass, thorns or metal swarf or nails, go around and turn it inside out inspecting and feeling every inch. This might be easier if you have noted the location of the puncture before removing the tyre, either with a bubble test or by marking the outer against the valve hole so that you can match up the inner once you've found the cause of the problem.

Also check the rim carefully for swarf or sharp bits of spoke protruding through the rim tape.

Tyre removal and replacement are much easier if you use a liberal sprinkling of talc, the best natural lubricant for rubber.

If you've hung the chain on that pin, don't forget to replace it on the cassette or you will put pressure on the pedals and snap the pin off or damage your frame.

 

[twozeronine]

You might also want to think about investing in some tyres that have decent punture protection (I assume you're still using the tyres that came with the bike, which will probably have zero protection). Armadillos are pretty good.

Offroad:
http://www.evanscycl...o-tyre-ec001839

Road:
http://www.evanscycl...o-tyre-ec001837

(I'm assuming you have 26" wheels)

 

[LosingFocus]

Set the chain on the smallest cog. If you've got rim brakes, unhitch the straddle wire or release the cam thingy. Loosen the QR and pull the derailleur backwards towards the rear of the bike, pulling the wheel out at the same time. If there's a handy pin on the seatstay, hang the chain on that.

Thanks Globalti. Not got a QR, but a bit of spanner work should be OK. This sounds odd, but I think the derailleur is attached to the frame with a screw, is this usual or am I looking at it wrong?

You might also want to think about investing in some tyres that have decent punture protection (I assume you're still using the tyres that came with the bike, which will probably have zero protection). Armadillos are pretty good.

Cheers barefoot. yes, still running the cheapo ones that came on the BSO, so will invest in some newies at some point when finances allow!

 

[Globalti]

Thanks Globalti. Not got a QR, but a bit of spanner work should be OK. This sounds odd, but I think the derailleur is attached to the frame with a screw, is this usual or am I looking at it wrong?

You're right of course, I should have written "rotate the derailleur towards the rear of the bike" - just swing it backwards against the spring that keeps the tension on the chain, this will create space for the cassette to slip out. This operation is much easier with the chain on the smallest cog because the chain is slacker and because you don't need to pull the derailleur so far back to create the space for the cassette to slip out. It will be difficult or impossible if you have left the chain on the biggest cog.

 

[LosingFocus]

You're right of course, I should have written "rotate the derailleur towards the rear of the bike" - just swing it backwards against the spring that keeps the tension on the chain, this will create space for the cassette to slip out. This operation is much easier with the chain on the smallest cog because the chain is slacker and because you don't need to pull the derailleur so far back to create the space for the cassette to slip out. It will be difficult or impossible if you have left the chain on the biggest cog.

Awesome, makes perfect sense now. I had visions of having to take the gearing apart... phew! I'll have a crack tonight and if it all goes titsup I'll call my LBS tomorrow

 

[Globalti]

Awesome, makes perfect sense now. I had visions of having to take the gearing apart... phew! I'll have a crack tonight and if it all goes titsup I'll call my LBS tomorrow

Don't do that, learn to do it yourself. It's not rocket science and anyway the LBS won't be there if you get a puncture out on the road, will they? Removing a wheel and fixing a flat is something any cyclist ought to be able to do as a minimum.

Once you've mastered it, try it half a dozen times so that you are really familiar with the routine.

 

[redjedi]

When you've put it back on, make sure you haven't got the springs caught between the frame and the skewer, and make sure you do it up properly.
It should be quite difficult to release the lever once it's done up (but not impossible, don't force it closed).

If it's not done up properly you run the risk of the wheel being pulled out and forward, pushing the rear of the bike into the air and throwing you over the handlebars.

I learnt this the hard way and had a couple of cracked ribs to help me remember.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

+1

Don't do that, learn to do it yourself. It's not rocket science and anyway the LBS won't be there if you get a puncture out on the road, will they? Removing a wheel and fixing a flat is something any cyclist ought to be able to do as a minimum.

Once you've mastered it, try it half a dozen times so that you are really familiar with the routine.

 

[Angelfishsolo]

The OP's wheel is held on with nuts not a QR skewer

When you've put it back on, make sure you haven't got the springs caught between the frame and the skewer, and make sure you do it up properly.
It should be quite difficult to release the lever once it's done up (but not impossible, don't force it closed).

If it's not done up properly you run the risk of the wheel being pulled out and forward, pushing the rear of the bike into the air and throwing you over the handlebars.

I learnt this the hard way and had a couple of cracked ribs to help me remember.

 

[LosingFocus]

Indeed, good old nuts for me.

Yeah, Im sure I will get it sorted myself without having to fall back on "professional" help.

 

[redjedi]

Only read the OP.

In that case make sure the nuts are done up nice and tight

 

[2Loose]

I can't add to anything already said, but is the bike turned upside down so you can see how the rear mech can be moved out of the way while you do it?

 

[MacB]

Do both, go along to a bike shop and ask if they'll show you how to fit a new tube, buy the tube from them of course and expect to pay the rate they'd normally charge for this...if they say no then move to another shop.

 

[LosingFocus]

Do both, go along to a bike shop and ask if they'll show you how to fit a new tube, buy the tube from them of course and expect to pay the rate they'd normally charge for this...if they say no then move to another shop.

Thanks MacB, makes sense. I *think* I can remember how to do the whole puncture repair bit, just a tad confused by getting the old back wheel off.