removing a stuck seatpost

[TheDoctor]

Rich it wasn't carbon frame but the doctor had a similar problem and I know he resolved it,can't remember how-might be worth a PM

My issue was an alloy seatpost stuck in a magnesium frame. I eventually cut the seatpost off flush and turned some alloy down to the i/d of the stuck seatpost. I now have a solid bar of a seatpost, instead of a tube!!

 

[Ian 74]

I had this problem and WD40 patience and a lot of gradual twists and a bit of bashing eventually go the bugger out.

Have you left the seat on to use as leverage? Or if you have an old seat you don't mind getting knocked attach that and use a mallet or similar to give it a good whack after lubing, keep lubing.

Good luck

 

[Red Light]

My issue was an alloy seatpost stuck in a magnesium frame. I eventually cut the seatpost off flush and turned some alloy down to the i/d of the stuck seatpost. I now have a solid bar of a seatpost, instead of a tube!!

How does that work? You would need a slot in the length of the old seatpost for the seat clamp to be able to tighten it down onto your new post. Without that it will simply grip the outside of the old seatpost while leaving the new one unclamped inside it.

 

[rich p]

I had this problem and WD40 patience and a lot of gradual twists and a bit of bashing eventually go the bugger out.

Have you left the seat on to use as leverage? Or if you have an old seat you don't mind getting knocked attach that and use a mallet or similar to give it a good whack after lubing, keep lubing.

Good luck

Yes I've had the seatpost in a vice and twisited the frame but WD40 and a bash I haven't tried yet.

Watch this space.

 

[Moodyman]

A well known local frame builder told me technique works better than brute force, when I had a similar problem.

WD40 > Leave > Gentle tapping > WD40 > Leave > Gentle tapping > repeat until it loosens.

 

[Zoiders]

Bloody seat posts.

I don't get a seized post, I use the post from an old Raleigh M-Trax of the space shuttle glue variety with lugs, It's thinly drawn Reynolds steel so it's as light as ally and it's got what looks like a Ti-nitride finish like a suspension fork stanchion.

I suspect Raleigh used them to prevent galvanic corrosion from aluminium and the glue in the lugs reacting together, it's a lovely bit of kit and they should start making them again.

 

[TheDoctor]

How does that work? You would need a slot in the length of the old seatpost for the seat clamp to be able to tighten it down onto your new post. Without that it will simply grip the outside of the old seatpost while leaving the new one unclamped inside it.

Indeed so. I have cut such a slot in the remnants of the old seatpost. I knew the Dremel would come in handy!!
The new one was turned down to be a quite close fit.

 

[rich p]

Don't turn the frame straight upside-down to put the penetrating oil or WD40 in. Do it at a reasonably shallow angle so you allow the oil a chance to get between seat post and frame, rather than missing and going into the seat pin.

Good point - no result so far but I'm a patient man