Removing a stuck lock ring

[Yellow Fang]

I want to change the cassette on my rear wheel, but I cannot turn the lock ring. I tried for over an hour yesterday with no luck. I took it into a bike shop this lunch time, and they could not shift it either. The man said that he could not get the bit into the lock ring far enough because something was blocking it. Because of that, the bit kept jumping out every time he tried to turn it. He said the bit should sink all the way, but it was only going in a few millimetres. This is what I was finding yesterday. How do I get the frigging thing off? Should I try another shop? Could I saw through the lock ring with a hacksaw? It looks like it is made of hardened steel. Also I do not want to damage the hub. Could I drill the smallest sprocket off? If I could get off the smallest sprocket, I might be able to get more purchase on the lock ring. This would mean buying an electric drill, which may be a worthwhile investment anyway.

 

[marcusjb]

Have you tried securing the lockring tool with a quick release skewer?

The tool should go in a fair way - but with a QR skewer holding it all together, it will not jump out.

See
View: http://youtu.be/nHkXh8UQaz0
for a bit of an explanation (around 25 seconds in)

 

[Koga]

Easiest is to try another bikeshop first as it could be that the previous bikeshop did not have the right tools or skills.
You can try positioning a flat head screw driver in one of the slots and hit it with a hammer. The shock may loosen the lock ring, but you have to make sure the freewheel is completely locked for this.

 

[Sheffield_Tiger]

Lockring tool needs clamping in a vice, holding in place with the Q/R skewer (loose, not tight!) and then the chain whip used to turn the cassette against the lockring.

Once loosened, the QR skewer can come out, the tool removed from the vice, and a spanner used to turn the lockring while the whip holds the cassette in the normal way

Also check the tool is the correct one. Only time I've had that difficulty of the tool not engaging was when someone botched a repair previously and got the spindle in the wrong way somehow, so the cone locknut was too far out. Or something like that - I forget exactly, it was some time ago

 

[bianchi1]

I used to have a mavic wheel that was designed in such a way that part of the axle made it impossible to fit the lock ring tool into the cassette (campag)

The only way around it was to remove the axle first, then attack the cassette.

Best of luck!

Edit.. Just found the wheel and it was actually only part of the axle that needed removing.

 

[Yellow Fang]

Easiest is to try another bikeshop first as it could be that the previous bikeshop did not have the right tools or skills.
You can try positioning a flat head screw driver in one of the slots and hit it with a hammer. The shock may loosen the lock ring, but you have to make sure the freewheel is completely locked for this.

I tried that but no luck.

 

[Yellow Fang]

Can you look to see what, if anything, is stopping the tool from engaging? Perhaps a squirt of WD40 might shift it.
You could also try putting the quick release through to hold the tool in as firmly as possible.

Whatever is just beneath the lock ring looks like it should be there. The man in the bike shop told me that it the cassette might be faulty if I had bought it over the internet. I tried soaking the lockring in oil and it did not help. I found I could not put the quick release skewer through the bit and tighten the skewer nut over it.

 

[Yellow Fang]

Lockring tool needs clamping in a vice, holding in place with the Q/R skewer (loose, not tight!) and then the chain whip used to turn the cassette against the lockring.

Once loosened, the QR skewer can come out, the tool removed from the vice, and a spanner used to turn the lockring while the whip holds the cassette in the normal way

Also check the tool is the correct one. Only time I've had that difficulty of the tool not engaging was when someone botched a repair previously and got the spindle in the wrong way somehow, so the cone locknut was too far out. Or something like that - I forget exactly, it was some time ago

I will try putting it in a vice if I can. I do not think my tool is the best - I have to twist it with an adjustable spanner, which is a problem in itself. However, the man in the bike shop did not have much better luck with his tools.

 

[screenman]

I find the best way to deal with these is to find someone with an impact gun, the type used by tyre fitters etc. It is a shame you are not closer as I would happily remove it for you.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

It is possible that a spacer that is larger than it should be was put under the drive side locknut, in such a way that it blocks the tool's full engagement.

If it is a simple cup and cone hub then generally you could loosen the axle completely from the non-drive side, then the axle should slip out of the drive side (make sure you catch all the balls!). Once the axle is out there should be nothing left to stop the tool engaging the splines.

 

[Cyclopathic]

I'd be tempted to go at it carefully with an angle grinder. It may mean sacrificing the cassette or at least the first cog but if all else has failed and you are at the stage where you could have to write it off anyway then there is little to loose by bringing out the big guns. At least this way you get to keep most of the wheel and who knows maybe just the lockring will come apart.
Best of luck and let us know how it resolves.

 

[ohnovino]

He said the bit should sink all the way, but it was only going in a few millimetres.

I've had a similar problem on some hubs, where the nut you can see in RecordAceFromNew's pic above is too big for my lockring tool to fit between it and the splines. My elegant solution was just to line up the tool and whack it into the gap with a lump hammer - probably only works if your tool's made out of cheap plastic.

 

[Koga]

I tried that but no luck.

I have a self made chainwip (old chain screwed on a sizeable piece of wood) which provides great leverage but unless you can make one that's no help to you. The hammer screw driver method can also be applied whilst the wheel is in the bike frame, just don't tension the quick release to much. You can stand on the pedal to stop the freewheel moving. You may need a second person for this and you need to have some space to get the flat screw driver in.
Good luck.

 

[Yellow Fang]

I'd be tempted to go at it carefully with an angle grinder. It may mean sacrificing the cassette or at least the first cog but if all else has failed and you are at the stage where you could have to write it off anyway then there is little to loose by bringing out the big guns. At least this way you get to keep most of the wheel and who knows maybe just the lockring will come apart.
Best of luck and let us know how it resolves.

I don't care about the cassette. I have another one waiting to be put on. I just don't want to damage the hub or anything else.

 

[Roadrider48]

As record says, it sounds like a rogue spacer. That's probably the only thing that would stop the tool going in far enough.