Reduce feedback of 105 Disc Brake Levers

[TerryTibbs]

I have just had my bicycle serviced and on the right hand lever in order to get the brake to fully brake I have to pull the lever in so much that I have to remove my fingers from the bars, how can I reduce this distance? It was not doing this before the service.

Thanks

 

[S-Express]

Take it back to whoever did the service?

 

[TerryTibbs]

Ah S-Express my ever faithful tutor. Might you tell me how I can do it myself? I don't want to surrender my bicycle for another few days as they always take a long time to do these things.

 

[S-Express]

Ah S-Express my ever faithful tutor. Might you tell me how I can do it myself? I don't want to surrender my bicycle for another few days as they always take a long time to do these things.

Well, speaking to whoever you (presumably) paid to do the work would be the first choice, I would have thought. But if not, can you be more specific - 105 hydro or cable - and what calipers?

 

[TerryTibbs]

Well, speaking to whoever you (presumably) paid to do the work would be the first choice, I would have thought. But if not, can you be more specific - 105 hydro or cable - and what calipers?

I paid a small fortune for this service and of course your original suggestion is in the realm of rational thought but I was asking and indeed curious to learn how to do it myself.

Brakeset: Shimano BR-R785 w/ SM-RTXX-SS 140mm Rotor F & R
Levers: Shimano ST-RS685

Hydraulic disc-brakes

 

[Cycleops]

Have a look at the Shimano tech document for them which covers adjustments:
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0008-08-ENG.pdf

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Read page 62 of the document Cucleops linked. That deals with adjustment.

Reach adjustment is how far the lever settles from the bar. It is the adjustment for small or big hands.
Free stroke adjustment is how quickly the brakes byte after pulling the lever. It increases or decreases the lever play.

However, it sounds to me as if there is air in your brakes since the free stroke adjustment (which is the problem based on your description) can't be that large.

Pump the lever several times to see if it improves. If it temporarily improves, then you have to bleed the system. If not, then it is Free Stroke.

 

[TerryTibbs]

Read page 62 of the document Cucleops linked. That deals with adjustment.

Reach adjustment is how far the lever settles from the bar. It is the adjustment for small or big hands.
Free stroke adjustment is how quickly the brakes byte after pulling the lever. It increases or decreases the lever play.

However, it sounds to me as if there is air in your brakes since the free stroke adjustment (which is the problem based on your description) can't be that large.

Pump the lever several times to see if it improves. If it temporarily improves, then you have to bleed the system. If not, then it is Free Stroke.

Have a look at the Shimano tech document for them which covers adjustments:
http://si.shimano.com/pdfs/dm/DM-BR0008-08-ENG.pdf

Thank you so much

 

[TerryTibbs]

@Yellow Saddle Pumped the brake several times as per your suggestion and it temporarily improves the situation, how long does it take to bleed the system?

On another note do you know what might cause the brake hood (again on the side with the lever issue) to slide about? Will be taking the bicycle back to the shop where they did the service but they seemed to have loosened the hood which is not comfortable when riding as it slides about in your hand.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

@Yellow Saddle Pumped the brake several times as per your suggestion and it temporarily improves the situation, how long does it take to bleed the system?

On another note do you know what might cause the brake hood (again on the side with the lever issue) to slide about? Will be taking the bicycle back to the shop where they did the service but they seemed to have loosened the hood which is not comfortable when riding as it slides about in your hand.

That diagnoses then confirms that there is air in the system. It has to be bled. It doesn't take long to bleed but it does take some skill and special tools. Take it back. The sliding hood is caused by oil underneath the hood. They have to clean it very thoroughly if they spilt oil in there. Tell them to do it properly this time. Bad workmanship for good money.

 

[TerryTibbs]

Thank you, I have taken it back.

 

[tincaman]

@Yellow Saddle Pumped the brake several times as per your suggestion and it temporarily improves the situation, how long does it take to bleed the system?

On another note do you know what might cause the brake hood (again on the side with the lever issue) to slide about? Will be taking the bicycle back to the shop where they did the service but they seemed to have loosened the hood which is not comfortable when riding as it slides about in your hand.

The hoods on those RS685 shifters stretch after being peeled back for servicing, after 4 or 5 peels they never go back to a perfect fit.

 

[Yellow Saddle]

The hoods on those RS685 shifters stretch after being peeled back for servicing, after 4 or 5 peels they never go back to a perfect fit.

Yeah, but the description said "slide about" not "flap in the wind".

 

[Lpoolck]

The hoods on those RS685 shifters stretch after being peeled back for servicing, after 4 or 5 peels they never go back to a perfect fit.

I have found they just stretch over time. I think they have used the wrong rubber compound or the mineral oil has somewhere along the production line got on them, and has contributed to the stretch. After 2 years you need to buy new ones as it's a safety hazard. Shimano do not consider it to be an issue unfortunately.

 

[tincaman]

Here's the old and new together