Rear wheel wobble

[BigonaBianchi]

My rear wheel is wobbling. It's not a wheel true issue or spoke issue. The wheel has play in it, about 2mm I'd say. It's in correctly on the quick release, so is there something else I should be checking/tightening?
It's a standard ambrosio rim that came with bianchi.
Thankyou

 

[Iain M Norman]

Sounds like play in the bearings. If they are cup and cone, check they are sound replace if not, tighten up if they are. If they are cartridge bearings then probably best to just replace them. Either way the best bet for first port of call is the LBS. They can diagnose it for sure.

 

[ColinJ]

And do it ASAP - I buggered a pair of cups and cones in just one century ride by riding with them loose. (I didn't notice until the start of the ride, and decided to fix the problem when I got home.)

 

[BigonaBianchi]

This??

View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfjvlIAEsJY

 

[BigonaBianchi]

This is my rear wheel just now


[URL=http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/189/bb5c.jpg/]

Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/URL]

 

[accountantpete]

You have Miche hubs which by the look of them have sealed bearings.

The causes of the play are:

1) Locknut has come loose and just needs tightening up - either the freehub side or the non-drive side.

2) Sealed bearings have worn and need replacing.

3) The freehub has worn (where it connects to the hub) and that is moving. You should be able to check this by wiggling the cassette and seeing if there is any play.

I'd check 3) and then for 1) check that the drive side locknut is tight. The hub is then adjusted from the non-drive side.

Undo the lock-nut, tighten up on the inner nut and then re-tighten up on the locknut

 

[BigonaBianchi]

You have Miche hubs which by the look of them have sealed bearings.

The causes of the play are:

1) Locknut has come loose and just needs tightening up - either the freehub side or the non-drive side.

2) Sealed bearings have worn and need replacing.

3) The freehub has worn (where it connects to the hub) and that is moving. You should be able to check this by wiggling the cassette and seeing if there is any play.

I'd check 3) and then for 1) check that the drive side locknut is tight. The hub is then adjusted from the non-drive side.

Undo the lock-nut, tighten up on the inner nut and then re-tighten up on the locknut

ok mate thankyou...
i just tested the cassette 3) and there is no play
i'll do the locknut thing tomorrow

 

[fossyant]

If you can't take the play out with the lock nut, then its time for new bearings. Good thing is that sealed cartridge aren't expensive, at about £5 max per bearing. Wheels will be like new when done. I prefer sealed cartridge for the commute bike.

 

[Tim Hall]

If it is the bearings that need replacing, it's generally cheaper to buy them from your local bearing supplier rather than from a bike shop.

 

[accountantpete]

If it is the bearings that need replacing, it's generally cheaper to buy them from your local bearing supplier rather than from a bike shop.

Much much cheaper in fact! There should be a code number on the plastic seal of each bearing with something like 6001-RS and you just order that product.

I use Simply Bearings as they usually specify the grade of bearing used (10 is very good/100 not so good) but you can take pot luck and order off ebay.

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/

 

[BigonaBianchi]

Well it seems I failed at the first hurdle...took the wheel off and for the life of me i cant figure out which bits need tightening, anyway I dont see any 'normal' nuts , there is a locknut but its not a standard I recognize...Im guessing I need campag spanners??? I have a shimano bike repair kit...for my tourer...but I dont have a tool to fit anything I see on these miche hubs...
still got play...
...off to the LBS again i guess....I'll tell them they just need tightening and see what they say...they'd replace the entire bike part by part if i let them..

 

[BigonaBianchi]

Scrub that...not to be defeated I had a closer look..there is a small grubbscrew under the nut..hmm I thought..I wonder if its loose...it was ..I got a wrench and while the wheel was in the dropouts I just tightened the.nut a little and did up the grub screw. The wheel play went away and Yeh wheel still turns freely. So I'm guessing it was just that the grub screecwas loose letting the bigger nut work loose a bit.