Rear wheel bearings (beginners question)

[MattDB]

I noticed a rattle from my rear wheel which I hadn't noticed until I recently took the wheel off to clean everything. On inspection there's a fair bit of left to right play in the rear wheel.

The only wheel bearings I've ever touched were from an old 1970's Raleigh and I don't really know where to start. The wheels are:

Rear Hub: Felt R4, sealed bearing, 28H, 10-speed Spokes: 2.0mm stainless steel

I'd previously read that sealed bearings are unserviceable? But then I've found some guides to adjusting cartridge bearings (are these different?) so I'm confused. Is this the end of the line for these hubs or can I do anything with them? They haven't done an awful lot of miles. Also is it dangerous to ride on these for a bit longer? (I'm waiting on a new seatpost clamp for my MTB so that's currently out of action).

The fact that this seems like a sudden problem also made me wonder if it's something else? Would tightening the QR skewer impact on the play in the bearings? I just wondered if previously the play in the bearings has been compensated for with a very tight QR.

All thoughts appreciated.

 

[Tim Hall]

I noticed a rattle from my rear wheel which I hadn't noticed until I recently took the wheel off to clean everything. On inspection there's a fair bit of left to right play in the rear wheel.

The only wheel bearings I've ever touched were from an old 1970's Raleigh and I don't really know where to start. The wheels are:

Rear Hub: Felt R4, sealed bearing, 28H, 10-speed Spokes: 2.0mm stainless steel

I'd previously read that sealed bearings are unserviceable? But then I've found some guides to adjusting cartridge bearings (are these different?) so I'm confused. Is this the end of the line for these hubs or can I do anything with them? They haven't done an awful lot of miles. Also is it dangerous to ride on these for a bit longer? (I'm waiting on a new seatpost clamp for my MTB so that's currently out of action).

The fact that this seems like a sudden problem also made me wonder if it's something else? Would tightening the QR skewer impact on the play in the bearings? I just wondered if previously the play in the bearings has been compensated for with a very tight QR.

All thoughts appreciated.

Rightly or wrongly, sealed and cartridge are used interchangeably in the world of bike wheels. A cartridge bearing isn't really serviceable, although hours of harmless fun can be had picking the seals out and squirting a bit more grease in. I think that some hubs do have the facility for adjusting the end loading on a cartridge bearing, although the two bikes (not a large sample) I've had rely on the depth of the recess the bearing sits in being correct and then the axle nut squeezing the dropout against the face of the bearing. I'm not sure if any of this helps you though.

 

[lpretro1]

Just replace the bearing - they will need to be tapped out if they are the cartridge type then new ones pressed in. Be usueful to get hold of the tech doc for taht hub just to check exactly how they come apart. Once you get bearing out then take to LBS and match it

 

[Tim Hall]

Just replace the bearing - they will need to be tapped out if they are the cartridge type then new ones pressed in. Be usueful to get hold of the tech doc for taht hub just to check exactly how they come apart. Once you get bearing out then take to LBS and match it

Take it to your local bearing supplier, as they're cheaper.

 

[growingvegetables]

Fwiw - similar symptoms to yours turned out to a broken QR spindle

 

[MattDB]

Fwiw - similar symptoms to yours turned out to a broken QR spindle

But that would be fairly obvious in terms of pulling it out and looking at it? Do you mean snapped/bent?

 

[MattDB]

But that would be fairly obvious in terms of pulling it out and looking at it? Do you mean snapped/bent?

That wasn't meant to sound sarcastic - I was just clarifying if that's what you meant?

 

[growingvegetables]

That wasn't meant to sound sarcastic - I was just clarifying if that's what you meant?

No worries!

It had indeed snapped. But I've reread your post ....... I missed that you've already taken the wheel off

 

[accountantpete]

The hubs you have will be OEM stuff with no proper spares available - but they will use standard sealed bearings.

There should be three bearings - two in the hub and one in the freehub - but some only have two. The freehub one may be ok - check for play in the freehub only.

If you want to replace the bearings then try inserting a hex key in either end of the axle - if there is a key then undo.

Otherwise the favourite design with this type of hub is to use friction only to hold the end pieces and lock the freehub in place. So you need to pull out the bits that rest in the dropouts. You should then be able to pull freehub off and access the bearings.

The bearings need to be tapped out and with a bit of luck there will be a code on the plastic seal on each bearing - that is the code for the bearing and will help you get an identical replacement. (NB. the freehub bearing may be a different size)

 

[lpretro1]

BTW - for 'tapped' more often than not it really should say 'hefty clonk' - it often takes a good whack esp if they've been in there for some time. Make sure you use a rubber/plastic mallet to do so not a metal hammer. If yours is the type that has the end parts that just push on/pull off - a vice with soft jaws is handy to remove them as they may be quite stuck on as well

 

[MattDB]

Thanks guys.
This sounds very complicated! Is this a tricky job best left to experts? I do most things myself. In a couple of days I'll have my MTB back on the road so could take apart my hub at my leisure.

 

[accountantpete]

Thanks guys.
This sounds very complicated! Is this a tricky job best left to experts? I do most things myself. In a couple of days I'll have my MTB back on the road so could take apart my hub at my leisure.

It's good training if you ever want to take apart other hubs in the future rather than relying on the LBS.

 

[MattDB]

Thanks all - I tried to look up some more info on the cartridge and found a thread on another site describing maintenance of these Felt hubs and coincidently I was riding to work and realised that 'Dr Bike' (work scheme - free minor cycle repairs) was around and asked him to take a look - he said it was adjustable and took off the cassette and tightened it up and now it's running smoothly. I now know for the future that this is adjustable - I was confused by the spec though!

 

[MattDB]

Thanks all - I tried to look up some more info on the cartridge and found a thread on another site describing maintenance of these Felt hubs and coincidently I was riding to work and realised that 'Dr Bike' (work scheme - free minor cycle repairs) was around and asked him to take a look - he said it was adjustable and took off the cassette and tightened it up and now it's running smoothly. I now know for the future that this is adjustable - I was confused by the spec though!

Sadly he also told me that whoever put my brake pads on (me) had made an arse of it as they were upside down - potentially pretty dangerous!