Rear cassete

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DEFENDER01

Über Member
Location
Essex
When the chain is on the smallest rear chain ring should there be a little back and forward movement on the remaining rear sprockets.
Just noticed mine has when i was cleaning it.
 
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When the chain is on the smallest rear chain ring should there be a little back and forward movement on the remaining rear sprockets.
Just noticed mine has when i was cleaning it.
Nope, the freehub or the cassette is goosed. The splines may be worn flat, or the guides are gone on the sprockets. Unless you mean the sprockets are moving side to side, then you may just need to torque the lockring up to 40Nm.
 
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DEFENDER01

DEFENDER01

Über Member
Location
Essex
Nope, the freehub or the cassette is goosed. The splines may be worn flat, or the guides are gone on the sprockets. Unless you mean the sprockets are moving side to side, then you may just need to torque the lockring up to 40Nm.
When i move the chain to the middle set of rear gears the play goes.
I will check it out tomorrow. :sad:
 
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DEFENDER01

DEFENDER01

Über Member
Location
Essex
20150606_014823.jpg
20150606_014801.jpg

Do these look worn my guess is they should be replaced and the chain.?:sad:
Will the gears need indexing if i renew the cassette.??
 

Tojo

Über Member
I would recommend a new chain, cassette and jockey wheels. and you shouldn't need to have to set the stops as the index will be the same as the stops are set to cover that range of cassette, but if you have probs in-between top and bottom of the cassette. it is just cable tension as in, if the cable is a bit slack, it doesn't take enough cable then when you index from your first stop further up you take it, it gets worse and wants to be between one cog and the next one up.
Sh*t I'm giving out too much info here, I'm trying to start a mobile bike mechs businesses soon, I'll have no customers at this rate....:rofl:
 

Tojo

Über Member
Explain more, as I would say if your cassette sprockets are moving, the cassette is loose on the freehub, and also if you look at the cassette when its rotating it does look like it is oscillating as the teeth on the cogs are offset, its one of those optical illusion's that the Human brain thinks if it looks like its going from side to side..it must be slack, with a cassette its not the case as its designed that way to pick up the chain as you change gear, especially when going from smaller to larger. god help me I'm frigging chuntering on now as my mates took me out on the pi*s too bloody early, and its now nearly Four in the morning....Bollo*ks I'm off too BoBo.
 
Location
Loch side.
It is impossible to say from a photo whether your chain is worn or not, unless you post a photo of the chain's top run taken from head-on, so that a print-out can be made and measured using an architect's scale rule. However, only a chain can tell if a cassette is ruined - short answer to a long story. Your jockey wheel is still fine, and I'm looking at the tension pulley, so the obscured guide pulley that wears less, will be fine too.
@Tojo - you are right saying you will have no customers at this rate - at this rate you're fleecing them out of money by "recommending" new this and that? What do you base your recommendations on? The state of your wallet?
 
Try the simplest thing first, tighten the lockring up. If there is still movement, then I'd replace the cassette ( personally I'd go for a new chain too) if that doesn't sort it, get a new freehub. You'll have a nice new cassette and chain to go with it as well. :thumbsup:
 
Location
Loch side.
Try the simplest thing first, tighten the lockring up. If there is still movement, then I'd replace the cassette ( personally I'd go for a new chain too) if that doesn't sort it, get a new freehub. You'll have a nice new cassette and chain to go with it as well. :thumbsup:
You are going from bad to worse. How would replacing the cassette change the situation? These are standard items with standard widths which accommodate small variations on the freehub by using spacers. What if his new cassette also doesn't have a spacer? Replace it again?

Why would you have to change the chain then? Why not just recommend that he measures the chain and see if it needs replacement?

Please explain how splines on freehubs wear flat and what sprocket guides are.

If mechanics is not your field, don't go advising others, it only confuses what is already a confusing issue.
 
You are going from bad to worse. How would replacing the cassette change the situation? These are standard items with standard widths which accommodate small variations on the freehub by using spacers. What if his new cassette also doesn't have a spacer? Replace it again?

Why would you have to change the chain then? Why not just recommend that he measures the chain and see if it needs replacement?

Please explain how splines on freehubs wear flat and what sprocket guides are.

If mechanics is not your field, don't go advising others, it only confuses what is already a confusing issue.
Bored of you now. I've forgotten more about bike mechanics than you will ever know. "What are flat splines" "what are sprocket guides?" Really? :laugh:
 

Tojo

Über Member
It is impossible to say from a photo whether your chain is worn or not, unless you post a photo of the chain's top run taken from head-on, so that a print-out can be made and measured using an architect's scale rule. However, only a chain can tell if a cassette is ruined - short answer to a long story. Your jockey wheel is still fine, and I'm looking at the tension pulley, so the obscured guide pulley that wears less, will be fine too.
@Tojo - you are right saying you will have no customers at this rate - at this rate you're fleecing them out of money by "recommending" new this and that? What do you base your recommendations on? The state of your wallet?

I've never fleeced anyone in my life and am not about to start now, in fact the opposite could be said as I think I am doing things too cheap, if I can sort something out for someone without replacing it I will, more people are coming to me now form word of mouth as I do not fleece them by bullshitting them into replacing parts they do not need as some of the LBS have been doing, and by the way the state of my wallet is healthy.. without having fleeced anyone.
Also as you said yourself above It is impossible to say from a photo whether your chain is worn or not, if I had the bike here I would sort it out as cheaply as possible and explain the problems to the owner.
 
I've never fleeced anyone in my life and am not about to start now, in fact the opposite could be said as I think I am doing things too cheap, if I can sort something out for someone without replacing it I will, more people are coming to me now form word of mouth as I do not fleece them by bullshitting them into replacing parts they do not need as some of the LBS have been doing, and by the way the state of my wallet is healthy.. without having fleeced anyone.
Als as you said yourself above It is impossible to say from a photo whether your chain is worn or not, if I had the bike here I would sort it out as cheaply as possible and explain the problems to the owner.
Don't worry, most normal thinking folk know where you're coming from, the advice you gave was good:okay:
 
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