Raleigh M TRAX 2000 Collected today

[Threevok]

Alternatively - you can use SPDs for off road.

I prefer SPDs myself and only use flats in mud/snow conditions - or on the single speed - conditions where you need to put your foot down quickly

But you need to work out what works for you, and those superstars are a good place to start.

Welgo V8's are good too if you prefer a larger surface pedal. I got some of those for the GT

 

[ChrisEyles]

Sounds like you're having some fun with that one

The wellgo V8 copies are really good for the price, I've got them on my two MTBs and would recommend them.

Another good tip is to drop your heels when you're out of the saddle on the rough/steep stuff. That way if you hit a pothole or bump your body weight will be driven into the pedals, whereas if your foot is flat it tends to be fired forward off the pedal (as you found!). Dropping the heels also tends to bring the hips and body weight backwards on the bike, which is good when you're pointing down a steep hill.

Tip number two - beware shifting your body weight *too* far back on the bike. If you unweight the front wheel too much it can lose grip and a front wheel wash-out is usually pretty nasty... speaking from experience (and a trip to A&E) on this one!

Take it slow to start with and have fun!

 

[ChrisEyles]

Having a look on youtube at how to do a decent front wheel lift (using the hips/body weight rather than pulling up on the bars) might help too. Probably the easiest and most useful technical skill on a MTB, and could make the difference between clearing a bump/pothole or going over the bars!

 

[woodbutcher]

Sounds like you're having some fun with that one

The wellgo V8 copies are really good for the price, I've got them on my two MTBs and would recommend them.

Another good tip is to drop your heels when you're out of the saddle on the rough/steep stuff. That way if you hit a pothole or bump your body weight will be driven into the pedals, whereas if your foot is flat it tends to be fired forward off the pedal (as you found!). Dropping the heels also tends to bring the hips and body weight backwards on the bike, which is good when you're pointing down a steep hill.

Tip number two - beware shifting your body weight *too* far back on the bike. If you unweight the front wheel too much it can lose grip and a front wheel wash-out is usually pretty nasty... speaking from experience (and a trip to A&E) on this one!

Take it slow to start with and have fun!

Really good of you to give me a tutorial and it all makes perfect sense.I will have another crack at the same decent tomorrow ! l am also unsure of what how when and where do you use the brakes... it all happened so fast today that l didn't have time to use them

 

[woodbutcher]

Having a look on youtube at how to do a decent front wheel lift (using the hips/body weight rather than pulling up on the bars) might help too. Probably the easiest and most useful technical skill on a MTB, and could make the difference between clearing a bump/pothole or going over the bars!

Will do ...thanks for the info.

 

[woodbutcher]

Alternatively - you can use SPDs for off road.

I prefer SPDs myself and only use flats in mud/snow conditions - or on the single speed - conditions where you need to put your foot down quickly

But you need to work out what works for you, and those superstars are a good place to start.

Welgo V8's are good too if you prefer a larger surface pedal. I got some of those for the GT

Just ordered a pair €24 delivered great value thanks for the info .

 

[ChrisEyles]

l am also unsure of what how when and where do you use the brakes... it all happened so fast today that l didn't have time to use them

Go easy on the brakes through the trickier sections, you want to keep the wheels rolling and not lock them up (especially on the front!!). Get the braking done nice and early to scrub off your excess speed, well before the tricky corner/rooty staircase/drop-off or whatever it is. A good little mantra to remember is "Slow in, fast out". This is especially true for cornering at speed, you'll be much faster overall, and also have more grip through the corner if you brake early before starting the turn and then lay off the brakes during the turn.

A lot of technical stuff is actually easier with a little speed and momentum, but that takes practice and should be built up gradually so you can assess the limits of your traction, technical ability, nerves etc!

 

[woodbutcher]

Go easy on the brakes through the trickier sections, you want to keep the wheels rolling and not lock them up (especially on the front!!). Get the braking done nice and early to scrub off your excess speed, well before the tricky corner/rooty staircase/drop-off or whatever it is. A good little mantra to remember is "Slow in, fast out". This is especially true for cornering at speed, you'll be much faster overall, and also have more grip through the corner if you brake early before starting the turn and then lay off the brakes during the turn.

A lot of technical stuff is actually easier with a little speed and momentum, but that takes practice and should be built up gradually so you can assess the limits of your traction, technical ability, nerves etc!

I ride my Ducati 748s occasionally its quick and unforgiving if you screw up but its a pussycat compared to mountain biking