Quill stem is stuck, any joy with this theory

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Location
The Burbs
Hello kind cyclists.
I do not want to have to resort to drain cleaner or hacksaws. So I have removed the expander bolt flipped the frame upside down and droppped the expander bolt with nut down the steerer(nut fat end first). Then I have dropped another expander bolt down the steerer to rest up against the first bolt and so onto hammering and penetrating oil,

Question is really am I on a hiding to nothing or has anyone had any success like this?

Thanks for any feedback
Ed
 

steve50

Disenchanted Member
Location
West Yorkshire
I think you need to be hitting it from the top side not the bottom. When you undo the bolt to adjust the steering height you always knock the expander bolt downwards to unlock. I would think hitting it from the other end will only serve to make it even tighter.
 
Location
Pontefract
Take it to a local garage and have them apply some heat, the garage next door did one for me took him mins and no damage to paint work, though it is in primary so not an issue, he also did the seat tube.
 
OP
OP
Ed no-more-lemons
Location
The Burbs
Thanx for the replies guys. I got both the bolt and nut out ok, so it is just corrosion that is the issue. The idea was to use the bolt from the opposite direction to which it is usually installed. I can't tell, but I am hoping to have got some movement, and am thinking about blowing my Christmas Co2 into the steerer. Got the seatpost out this morning after first movement last night.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
I don't understand what your aim is with the bolt. Dribble plusgas or competitor in from the fork while it's inverted (careful to catch the run-off), then put it the right way up (careful to catch the run-off) and smack the stem through padding or with a rubber mallet. I've shifted stuck steel stems in steel steerers like that - next move was probably heat and hope the paintwork survives.
 
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Ed no-more-lemons
Location
The Burbs
I have the nut fixed to the epansion bolt, this has then been dropped into the upended steerer, fat edge of the nut first. Then I have placed a steel bar onto the head of the bolt so as to give something to strike with the hammer.
 
Location
Loch side.
I'm afraid you're not going to win this one that way. Hacksaw is the answwer. We've written about the reasons and methods before. You'll find it on a search.
 

sidevalve

Über Member
Just one idea if the penetrating oil etc doesn't work. Remove bolt altogether stand fork crown on something SOLID [so you aren’t using the forks to take the blow and hit down hard with a good big hammer [not some toy half pound jobby]. If no go after a couple of hits then as above really.
 
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I usually find that after soaking with a penetrating oil if you can apply a twisting action onto the stem it will eventually free up. Gripping the wheel between your feet or removing the wheel , place the forks between two big ish blocks of wood in a vice and Twist. It may take some effort and keep applying oil.
 
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Ed no-more-lemons
Location
The Burbs
Gone rotational, before nuclear. might need some bigger bolts though.
 

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What is that vice bolted to? It does not look like it is bolted to a bench to me. You will need something substantial to take the load that you will need to apply to shift anything. Also you will need to grip the forks between two blocks of wood to protect the forks and the paintwork.
 

biggs682

Itching to get back on my bike's
Location
Northamptonshire
If they dont move with some good old twisting i think you are on to a hiding and if you are not careful you might damage the forks , save yourself some time and loose the stem by cutting across just above the top lock nut and then treat yourself to a 22mm drill bit and carefully drill the remaining section out and then afterwards have the inside of the forks reamed .

I have had to resort to this a few times , sounds scary but after you have damaged a couple of pairs of genuine forks trying to get a stuck stem out , its well worth it
 
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