Quick question -quick answer please
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Gerry Attrick
Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
I do very lightly. It helps to stop it seizing in place with salt spray etc.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Same here - also stops any surface rust....bit of light greasing !!!
the jockey wheels' only job is to keep the chain aligned to the mech cage.
If they do that successfully and rotate freely then they don't need replacing. If they had no teeth left at all then it would still work, but the chain might touch the sides of the mech cage. As long as it doesn't then they're fine.
If they do that successfully and rotate freely then they don't need replacing. If they had no teeth left at all then it would still work, but the chain might touch the sides of the mech cage. As long as it doesn't then they're fine.
RedBike
New Member
- Location
- Beside the road
Ignore Borj.
There should be some movement 'float' in the jockey wheels. Without it you'd find your gears are much harder to index.
When the jockey wheels are very worn you'll find your chain starts acting the fool and gets entangled in the rear mech. Although before this you'll probably notice your gears are slower changing.
When you look at a worn jockey wheel the teeth will look spikey (Not bald).
just found a good piccy
There should be some movement 'float' in the jockey wheels. Without it you'd find your gears are much harder to index.
When the jockey wheels are very worn you'll find your chain starts acting the fool and gets entangled in the rear mech. Although before this you'll probably notice your gears are slower changing.
When you look at a worn jockey wheel the teeth will look spikey (Not bald).
just found a good piccy
Fab Foodie
hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
- Location
- Kirton, Devon.
Unless they look like the above and they cause no chain nastiness, then I'd not change them.
I also grease splines... there's little reason for doing it other than corrosion protection.
I also grease splines... there's little reason for doing it other than corrosion protection.
what's causing that?Well on my bike i've got a triple, and it's impossible not to have the chain hitting the mech at all in any gear, the compromise is to have it so that it only touches in one combination that is easily avoidable. For me it only touches when i'm on the biggest sprocket on the middle ring (i.e. 42x23) which is most avoidable as i just go on the granny ring and 4th and 3rd for spinning up a big hill (32x17,19).
It only touches it very lightly and still shifts well, so i just accept it.
Also when i was setting mine up a bloke on acf told me it should go inside the notch (i.e. nearer the pivot) rather than round the outside of the notch (further away from the pivot) but the front mech was really stiff with it like that, so i put it round the outside of the notch and it shifts like a dream, even from small to middle with the chain on the biggest sprocket, which it didn't do without 'help' after it had indexed with it like he said. You'd think with more mechanical advantage and less velocity ratio it wouldn't move the cage as far, but seemingly it moves it enough.
Also be aware that some shifters actually have FOUR index positions not 3, so you can trim. e.g. mine's got 1, 2, 3 and 4 - weirdly, you can go from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, or 1 to 3, but 3 to 1 seems one motion - it won't go from 3 to 2. 3 to 4 and 4 to 3 is fine. also 1 to 2 isn't enough movement to actually change gear.
But I only use 1, 3 and 4, as they give the best positioning of the mech.
It only touches it very lightly and still shifts well, so i just accept it.
Also when i was setting mine up a bloke on acf told me it should go inside the notch (i.e. nearer the pivot) rather than round the outside of the notch (further away from the pivot) but the front mech was really stiff with it like that, so i put it round the outside of the notch and it shifts like a dream, even from small to middle with the chain on the biggest sprocket, which it didn't do without 'help' after it had indexed with it like he said. You'd think with more mechanical advantage and less velocity ratio it wouldn't move the cage as far, but seemingly it moves it enough.
Also be aware that some shifters actually have FOUR index positions not 3, so you can trim. e.g. mine's got 1, 2, 3 and 4 - weirdly, you can go from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3, or 1 to 3, but 3 to 1 seems one motion - it won't go from 3 to 2. 3 to 4 and 4 to 3 is fine. also 1 to 2 isn't enough movement to actually change gear.
But I only use 1, 3 and 4, as they give the best positioning of the mech.
byegad
Legendary Member
- Location
- NE England
Most Jockey wheels have some side to side movement, especially the middle one.
Mortiroloboy
New Member
RedBike said:Ignore Borj.
There should be some movement 'float' in the jockey wheels. Without it you'd find your gears are much harder to index.
When the jockey wheels are very worn you'll find your chain starts acting the fool and gets entangled in the rear mech. Although before this you'll probably notice your gears are slower changing.
When you look at a worn jockey wheel the teeth will look spikey (Not bald).
just found a good piccy
Weird!
