Problems with cross bike on hills

[Raleigh_Grifter]

Hi All,

I bought myself a Revolution Cross sport 13 about 4 weeks ago, so I'm still very much a beginner.

I eventually intend to use it for commuting (24mile round trip), but also on trails as well as day trips out etc. However, at the moment, I am mainly in training for the 63 mile Virgin Cyclone charity ride 29th June (Only 6 weeks to go!).

I haven't ridden for about a dozen years (I'm early 40's now), and only had an old road bike back then, so I don't think I've done too bad in having done 13, 13, 16, 24, 25 and 29 miles.

My problem now seems to be on the hills. I am struggling on anything too steep, or of any significant length. I'm having to get out of the saddle very early on steep climbs, as otherwise I would come to a stop, and even then I am finding it very hard. This charity ride has over 1,200 metres ascending, and only the 24 mile ride I did had any significant ascents (Over 500 metres), and it nearly killed me. When I was younger I actually used to enjoy climbing on my road bike, although it was lighter and I was probably only about 10 stone back then, so I don't think the problem is me and hills.

What's the main cause?

My beginner's lack of leg muscle power and fitness levels? (I usually play 5 a side once a week so not completely unfit).
The heavier nature of the cross bike as opposed to road? (11.9kg)
The grippy, thicker 33c tyres?
Does the lowest gear need to be on a smaller cog, more like a mountain bike ratio, to combat the slightly heavier weight?
Is it my extra weight? (14 stone on a 6 foot frame).

Or just a combination of all?

I'm a bit worried about completing this course purely because of the hills. They really do seem very tough going on this bike.

Any advice is welcome

Thanks

 

[Canrider]

What's the main cause?

My beginner's lack of leg muscle power and fitness levels? (I usually play 5 a side once a week so not completely unfit).

Probably just this. Running around the pitch is different muscle usage than grinding up a hill.
If time's short, you could switch the chainrings to a triple to give you an extra-low gear. Otherwise it's just a matter of practice and adapting to the new exertion.

Good luck!

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

What size tyres do you use Mort? And do they have any hills in Belgium?! I'm talking long and steep small country road hills,

Maybe I am just unfit then!

 

[ianrauk]

It's simple really and to be brutally honest.
You are unfit and not used to riding a bike.
But hey, a good lot of us on here have been in the same situation.
You just need to ride, ride and ride some more.. then go for another ride and keep riding.
You soon become quicker and better at riding and climbing hills.

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

Mort,

Do you think it would make much difference getting 28c tyres as oppposed to the 33's I've got? The guy in the bike shop said he had a cross and used the 28c to commute with and they were fine. I'm just wondering if that would make climbing a bit easier?

What do you mean by spin the pedals?!

 

[deptfordmarmoset]

Mort,

Do you think it would make much difference getting 28c tyres as oppposed to the 33's I've got? The guy in the bike shop said he had a cross and used the 28c to commute with and they were fine. I'm just wondering if that would make climbing a bit easier?

What do you mean by spin the pedals?!

He means keep in the lowest gear where you can pedal quickly. It will probably help you a great deal.

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

"He means keep in the lowest gear where you can pedal quickly. It will probably help you a great deal."

Oh don't worry, I'm not shy about dropping down the gears. I appear to run out of gears to drop down to though, which is the problem! I'd like another one or two.

How do you quote someone's text on here?!

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

[QUOTE 2453465, member: 259"]The stock ones fitted on mine were Maxix 33c ones, so I guess that's what you've got?

I found them too knobbly for riding on roads, so yes, it would probably make a difference if you switched to slicker tyres. I just put 28s on mine out of sheer force of habit.

deptfordmarmoset explained the spinning bit already. [/quote]

D'oh, got the hang of quotes now..

Yes, that's them. They seem to make it that bit heavier than it maybe needs to be. Will look into getting some 28's.

I have no idea what I'm looking for though. Any recommendations? How much cost wise?

 

[MaxInc]

Like you I believed that lifting weights and running 5k 3 times a week qualifies me as "reasonably fit" but to my surprise I almost fainted after cycling my first mile uphill. It gets better with time and training.

If you find the lowest pedal disc with the highest rear gear too difficult, you should probably try to conquer and smaller hill first until you can get some speed and then move onto the more difficult climbs.

Rule #10 applies here = It never gets easier, you just go faster.

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

Like you I believed that lifting weights and running 5k 3 times a week qualifies me as "reasonably fit" but to my surprise I almost fainted after cycling my first mile uphill. It gets better with time and training.

If you find the lowest pedal disc with the highest rear gear too difficult, you should probably try to conquer and smaller hill first until you can get some speed and then move onto the more difficult climbs.

Rule #10 applies here = It never gets easier, you just go faster.

This isn't the answer I wanted. I wanted someone to blame the bike and tyres, and tell me I am still a King of the Mountains contender!

I just need to get out there and do more hills.

Would there be much difference in the gear set up I have on my cross bike and that on a regular road bike? Would the lowest gear be any lower?

 

[Canrider]

Would there be much difference in the gear set up I have on my cross bike and that on a regular road bike? Would the lowest gear be any lower?

Looking at the spec online, you seem to have a double at the front with a 36T 'small' chainring, and a 11-27T set of cogs at the back (just say if this is incorrect, I looked for the 2013 model on the EBC website). I suggested a triple chainset at the front as a quick fix because that would give you something like a 30T small chainring at the front, so you'd have an additional range of low gearings to select for hill climbing. Or, you could find a 9-speed cassette for the rear wheel that has a larger cog than 27T, same effect. Or both.
As to a regular road bike, it really depends on the bike you compare to. The Revolution road bike has a 12-25T cassette, so a higher gearing than what you've got now (by a little bit).

 

[ianrauk]

Crossers usually have lower gearing then road bikes.

 

[MaxInc]

Would there be much difference in the gear set up I have on my cross bike and that on a regular road bike? Would the lowest gear be any lower?

Not an awful lot. My road bike has 50/34 chain rings with 12/28 cassette so the lowest possible gear would be 34/28 which would give a 1.21 ratio. On your bike (judging by online specs) the ratio is slightly higher with 46/36 chain rings and 12/27 cassette which would give you a 36/27 or 1.33. With that being said, I never used the last 3 gears with the small chain ring and I'm also a 4 week beginner. The more I ride the same hill, the less need I have for lower gears.

Mountain bikes or triple chain sets can offer an even lower ratios but I wouldn't upgrade the gearing on the bike at this stage until I would be certain that my fitness can no longer improve.

 

[Raleigh_Grifter]

Looking at the spec online, you seem to have a double at the front with a 36T 'small' chainring, and a 11-27T set of cogs at the back (just say if this is incorrect, I looked for the 2013 model on the EBC website). I suggested a triple chainset at the front as a quick fix because that would give you something like a 30T small chainring at the front, so you'd have an additional range of low gearings to select for hill climbing. Or, you could find a 9-speed cassette for the rear wheel that has a larger cog than 27T, same effect. Or both.
As to a regular road bike, it really depends on the bike you compare to. The Revolution road bike has a 12-25T cassette, so a higher gearing than what you've got now (by a little bit).

I'm well out of my depth here. That is just a lot of numbers! I know I've got a double at the front and 18 gears in all.

Here's what it says on the shop online page....

Shifters Shimano Sora ST-3500 9 Speed
Rear Mech Shimano Sora RD-3500 SS
Front Mech Shimano Sora FD-3500, 31.8mm
Chainset FSA, Vero CX. 46/36t, 170mm Black
Bottom Bracket RPM, Cartridge Square Taper
Cassette / Freewheel Shimano, HG-50, 12-27t, 9 Speed

 

[ianrauk]

I'm well out of my depth here. That is just a lot of numbers! I know I've got a double at the front and 18 gears in all.

Here's what it says on the shop online page....

Shifters Shimano Sora ST-3500 9 Speed
Rear Mech Shimano Sora RD-3500 SS
Front Mech Shimano Sora FD-3500, 31.8mm
Chainset FSA, Vero CX. 46/36t, 170mm Black
Bottom Bracket RPM, Cartridge Square Taper
Cassette / Freewheel Shimano, HG-50, 12-27t, 9 Speed

The above is all you really need to worry about.
Most road bikes these days have compact double chainsets with 50/34 teeth, you have 46/36.
At the rear they usually have 11-27 or slightly higher, you have 12-27

What you currently have is pretty low gearing.
As I said previous, just get on and ride as much as you can. It won't take long to build your stamina and riding power.