POWER

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OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
Not a lot but for the sake of the best data possible, it is worth doing and you are immediately aware if something has gone wrong.

BTW Powertap's zero whenever you freewheel.


Does that mean I don't need to zero at all manually? OMG even more time saved :wahhey:
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
Does that mean I don't need to zero at all manually? OMG even more time saved :wahhey:

You should still zero it at the start and end of a ride in order to see the offset value as I don't believe it transmits the latest offset value to the Garmin head unit when it auto zeros itself when coasting, just updates within itself. The Quarq can be zerod on the move by backpedalling 5 times.

BTW my short duration power is on the up, maybe I won't be so puny if this training keeps working :tongue: Up to about 500W (on the road, less on the turbo) for 3 minutes or so.
 
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OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
BTW my short duration power is on the up, maybe I won't be so puny if this training keeps working :tongue: Up to about 500W (on the road, less on the turbo) for 3 minutes or so.

Seems more in keeping with your FTP! How's the sub minute stuff coming along? You should try road next year, with numbers like this you should annihilate a 4th cat race.

I have just switched focus to a lot of sub minute and sub 2 minute intervals to reflect the demands of cross, and have a session per week that focuses on short intervals with very short recovery times as well.

Seems to result in quicker changes than the Z4 stuff. Somewhat surprisingly my 5 second power has crept up also!
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
Not looked at my sub-minute power really, but a quick glance in Golden Cheetah says:

1 sec - Don't think you can get a good measure of this so not bothering with it
10 sec - 913W
15 sec - 801W
20 sec - 685W
30 sec - 579W
1 min - 555W

I have mostly been doing sprints up a short (15-20 sec) cobbled climb at ~20% gradient, efforts up 0.5 mile climbs of ~10% (approx 3 mins) and efforts up some longer climbs, 2+ miles at 5-7% (approx 9-9.5 minutes). Trying to pull something out of the bag for the steeper stuff in the Hill climb season. The national starts pretty steep too.
 
OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
Not looked at my sub-minute power really, but a quick glance in Golden Cheetah says:

1 sec - Don't think you can get a good measure of this so not bothering with it
10 sec - 913W
15 sec - 801W
20 sec - 685W
30 sec - 579W
1 min - 555W

I have mostly been doing sprints up a short (15-20 sec) cobbled climb at ~20% gradient, efforts up 0.5 mile climbs of ~10% (approx 3 mins) and efforts up some longer climbs, 2+ miles at 5-7% (approx 9-9.5 minutes). Trying to pull something out of the bag for the steeper stuff in the Hill climb season. The national starts pretty steep too.

That's a fairly sharp drop off, have you done any fatigue profiling? I am guessing though that if you went out to test 1 minute now, you'd improve on that, given your 2 minute is nearly there as well. That reminds me, I need to re-test, I haven't done a proper test while relatively fresh in erm... about 4 months.

Edit: sorry just saw 3 minutes @ 500. Your 1 minute just has to be way more.
 

Rob3rt

Man or Moose!
Location
Manchester
That's a fairly sharp drop off, have you done any fatigue profiling? I am guessing though that if you went out to test 1 minute now, you'd improve on that, given your 2 minute is nearly there as well. That reminds me, I need to re-test, I haven't done a proper test while relatively fresh in erm... about 4 months.

Edit: sorry just saw 3 minutes @ 500. Your 1 minute just has to be way more.

Yes, but the Golden Cheetah algorithms just take best power for durations from whatever data you give it, so as I do 15 second efforts, 3 minute efforts and 9-10 minute efforts, I never do a balls out 1 minute, the 1 minute power could be taken from a 3 minute effort for example so the profile is skewed. Much like my 60 minute power is skewed because the only time I would go all out for an hour is during a 25TT, but as I am consistently under 60 minutes for a 25 mile TT, so I don't ever actually record any full 60 minute efforts, so my 60 minute power in GC has dropped off since breaking the hour and going faster and faster over 25 miles because it just takes the best 60 minutes it finds in non maximal efforts.
 
OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
Yes, but the Golden Cheetah algorithms just take best power for durations from whatever data you give it, so as I do 15 second efforts, 3 minute efforts and 9-10 minute efforts, I never do a balls out 1 minute, the 1 minute power could be taken from a 3 minute effort for example so the profile is skewed. Much like my 60 minute power is skewed because the only time I would go all out for an hour is during a 25TT, but as I am consistently under 60 minutes for a 25 mile TT, so I don't ever actually record any full 60 minute efforts, so my 60 minute power in GC has dropped off since breaking the hour and going faster and faster over 25 miles because it just takes the best 60 minutes it finds in non maximal efforts.

Yep that's pretty much what I said, or meant to say. Your true 1 minute is probably well over 600.

Here's mine just so it doesn't look like I'm ashamed of it. I have had some success in improving my power/weight recently by losing about 10 lbs in the unstructured month of August. It's amazing how much easier it is control your calorie intake when you're not smashing yourself into a TSB hole

5 sec - 1061W
10 sec - 908W
15 sec - 866W
20 sec - 800W
30 sec - 708W
1 min - 576W

As above, this is just taken from interval training, have not done a proper test in months, and most of my racing in the last three months has been sans PM. My TSB is at -25 ATM and dropping, but Vamp jr is due to be born in the next week or so, so I'll re-test once that enforced rest has taken place :smile:
 

amaferanga

Veteran
Location
Bolton
Does that mean I don't need to zero at all manually? OMG even more time saved :wahhey:

The autozero only works if the new zero point is close to the old one. If there's a big shift (e.g. your last ride was 20 degrees and you've just hauled the bike out of the garage the next morning and it's only 5 degrees) then it doesn't work. So yes you should manually set the zero at the start of every ride.
 
OP
OP
VamP

VamP

Banned
Location
Cambs
The autozero only works if the new zero point is close to the old one. If there's a big shift (e.g. your last ride was 20 degrees and you've just hauled the bike out of the garage the next morning and it's only 5 degrees) then it doesn't work. So yes you should manually set the zero at the start of every ride.


And at the end?
 
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