Potential new bike - gear and positioning question please

[upandover]

Hi,

I test rode a new road bike today after a few years of riding a hybrid and mountain bike - the Cannondale Synapse, Tigra. It was a nice ride, but felt a little underwhelming, and I'm pondering it. I wonder if I could ask a couple of questions. My last road bike was an R800 and very nice indeed, so I think for the price I may be over expecting, but...

- The gear changes were rather clunky. It's clearly not been used much at all, and it was mostly aligned, but each change felt like a bang or clunk. My other two bikes are more discreet (possibly just more worn?), and I wasn't sure if it was just the feel of a different bike, even this more relaxed one, or something else?

Positioning: Riding on the curves of the bars seemed more natural, and I kept finding myself on them, rather than on the hoods further on. The hoods felt ok, and I think it's just that I'm not used to a road bike stretch. Should this be ringing any alarm bells for me?

Thanks, Steve

 

[migrantwing]

Yep, the components on your old bikes may have 'worn in' a little. It could also be down to too much cable tension or that the limit stops need backing off a little. The missus had a new bike a few months ago and the shifts were very clunky. I got around to taking a look at the weekend and, as I mentioned above, I adjusted the cable tension and limit screws a tad and the shifts are a lot better minus the 'clunk'.

No big deal with riding on the drops a lot. It may cause a little discomfort on longer rides (+20 miles) but if it feels better for you to ride on them, that's fine. Just make sure that you aren't using the drops because when holding the hoods you feels too upright. Maybe drop your bars a little by removing spacers (if any) below the stem and see if riding on the hoods feels more comfortable.

*Edit* I thought you meant the drops when you said 'curves'. If you can't reach the hoods comfortably, you'll probably need to adjust your position on the bike. It's possible that you have too much reach and will need a shorter stem to bring the bars closer to you.

 

[upandover]

Thanks, that's really helpful. Interestingly I tried a 56 today and still felt the same. Although I could go to a smaller size, it would be too small for my legs - I think I just need to either get used to the stretch, or get a shorter stem when I get it. I'm hoping to be able to pick-up a Synapse 105 disc later this week! I'm just waiting for a reply.

Thanks
Steve

 

[migrantwing]

You're welcome, Steve

I'm curious as to what you mean by 'too short for your legs'. A smaller frame is not a problem, as long as you can lengthen the seatpost so that your legs do fit. If you straddle the bike, there should be around 1-2 inches of gap before the toptube hits your groin. The only thing with a smaller frame is that the height of the bars may not be as adjustable and could be too low for you. I have a 56cm bike and would have preferred the next size down, which was a 53cm, but there was not enough height adjustment at the steerer/fork for me to be comfortable on it. I went for the 56cm frame and have about 1 inch of clearance between the toptube and my groin.

Try one of these: Google Search: Bike Fit Calculators

...then try this (just make sure you find the correct year and model) and see what you come up with: Google Search: Synapse Geometry/Sizes

With that said, you really need to try the bike you already tried again AND the smaller framed one, too. It's always easier to make a smaller bike bigger, you can't make a bigger bike smaller

Lloydy

 

[upandover]

Thanks, that was rather poorly expressed.

I have a much smaller frame on my hibried, and it feels cramped. I also have the saddle very high (slightly higher than it should go) and so the pressure on my hands tells after 20-30 miles or so - which looking is what you said. When I've done all day on it, it's been bad. I like feeling stretched out, and I like a lot of leg stretch, so I've tended to go for bigger on other bikes.

When I tried a 54, I had the same experience of too great a drop to the bars. Doesn't the clearance change depending on the shape of the frame? The 'easier to make a smaller bike bigger' is the advice in the shop where I was trying. (Evans in Liverpool, who have been fantastic every time).

I''ll try them both again soon, but I'm getting settled on the 56, I remember when I for my mountain bike it took me a few week to get used to the very different position, and I'm wondering if this is about that too. I''m much more used to a big drop than a stretch!

Thanks again - I'll try the calculator now!

S

You're welcome, Steve

I'm curious as to what you mean by 'too short for your legs'. A smaller frame is not a problem, as long as you can lengthen the seatpost so that your legs do fit. If you straddle the bike, there should be around 1-2 inches of gap before the toptube hits your groin. The only thing with a smaller frame is that the height of the bars may not be as adjustable and could be too low for you. I have a 56cm bike and would have preferred the next size down, which was a 53cm, but there was not enough height adjustment at the steerer/fork for me to be comfortable on it. I went for the 56cm frame and have about 1 inch of clearance between the toptube and my groin.

Try one of these: Google Search: Bike Fit Calculators

...then try this (just make sure you find the correct year and model) and see what you come up with: Google Search: Synapse Geometry/Sizes

With that said, you really need to try the bike you already tried again AND the smaller framed one, too. It's always easier to make a smaller bike bigger, you can't make a bigger bike smaller

Lloydy[/QUOTE

 

[Peteaud]

Cannondale tend to come up big.

I am a tad over 6 foot and ride a 56, although as ever it's best to have a sit/ride.

If its just the reach then remember you can get a shorter stem.

 

[migrantwing]

Thanks, that was rather poorly expressed.

I have a much smaller frame on my hibried, and it feels cramped. I also have the saddle very high (slightly higher than it should go) and so the pressure on my hands tells after 20-30 miles or so - which looking is what you said. When I've done all day on it, it's been bad. I like feeling stretched out, and I like a lot of leg stretch, so I've tended to go for bigger on other bikes.

When I tried a 54, I had the same experience of too great a drop to the bars. Doesn't the clearance change depending on the shape of the frame? The 'easier to make a smaller bike bigger' is the advice in the shop where I was trying. (Evans in Liverpool, who have been fantastic every time).

I''ll try them both again soon, but I'm getting settled on the 56, I remember when I for my mountain bike it took me a few week to get used to the very different position, and I'm wondering if this is about that too. I''m much more used to a big drop than a stretch!

Thanks again - I'll try the calculator now!

S

Sounds like you're more or less decided on the 56 frame

 

[upandover]

Cannondale tend to come up big. I am a tad over 6 foot and ride a 56, although as ever it's best to have a sit/ride. If its just the reach then remember you can get a shorter stem.

That's helpful to know, thanks, it makes sense, given my previous experiences.

Sounds like you're more or less decided on the 56 frame

I'm leaning towards it. On the the measurements bit, I come up at 57 on the Eddy fit, an 58.a bit on the French fit. I also like to have my legs all but locking when I cycle, as it helps my knees a *lot*. A half cm lower and I notice quickly. It does seem to be more about the reach than anything else, and so I think a shorter stem might be the answer.

I will try them both again though Thank you guys.

 

[migrantwing]

The 56 should suit you then. A shorter or longer stem will most likely sort out the reach issues, if there are any.

Let us know how you get on