Positioning

[roadiewill]

the stem size is 110 (measuring from center of the handlebars to center of the steerer tube)
what size stem should I look at getting?

 

[Radius]

120mm?

 

[RedBike]

It looks like you could of perhaps done with the next size up. It's hard to tell. Hopefully a longer stem will sort things out.

You've been riding an SCR which has a stupidly long headtube / a short top tube so that it put the rider in a very up-right position for a road bike.

The Tamac is a pure race bike but it looks like you've tried to set it up like your SCR because thats what you're used to. It should be far more "arse up, head down" so to speak.

 

[roadiewill]

I tried the 58 like I said, but it felt like a real stretch to the drops and the front hub was behind the bars when I glanced down. If I should have got a 58 then why did the guy say I looked fine on the 56??

 

[Smokin Joe]

I'd be quite happy with the frame, better a tad small than too large. A slightly longer stem and you will be ok.

 

[Radius]

^^^ What I was gonna say. The difference in reach from a bigger frame would be larger than just a new stem, so it's better to have everything else ok and just have to change the stem, than have a bike that may essentially become unridable cos of pain / discomfort.

 

[yello]

Personally, I reckon that looks pretty good. And, imo, the frame doesn't look too small for you.

But the most important part is how it feels. Changes in position can take some getting used to and cause aches, so give it time and the aches will go. But, imo, no change should cause pain - if you're not happy with something, move it back. It doesn't matter what it looks like if you're happy with it.

 

[Mortiroloboy]

You could take another spacer (or two) out, just my opinion, if you feel comfortable as you are and are putting the power down, then leave it as it is.

 

[Smokin Joe]

Personally, I reckon that looks pretty good. And, imo, the frame doesn't look too small for you.

But the most important part is how it feels. Changes in position can take some getting used to and cause aches, so give it time and the aches will go. But, imo, no change should cause pain - if you're not happy with something, move it back. It doesn't matter what it looks like if you're happy with it.

Unless it's a Thorn...

 

[roadiewill]

^^^ What I was gonna say. The difference in reach from a bigger frame would be larger than just a new stem, so it's better to have everything else ok and just have to change the stem, than have a bike that may essentially become unridable cos of pain / discomfort.

Yeah definately, the 58 would and did stretch me out too much.
What Im going to do is leave it a few weeks, see how I adjust to the position as my flexibility increases again and then if I feel like I could do with a longer stem, Il get one.

thanks

 

[jimboalee]

Did you go out for a balls-out blast on the drops?

If you did, you will have found that the half hour session riding hard with your hands on the drops will make riding on the hoods feel a very upright position, even stupid for a race bike.

Riding hard on the drops is what this bike is designed for. Riding on the hoods is for getting the body into a position where you can take more advantage of the draft from the riders in front of you, with your index finger hovering over the brake levers.

Riding on the tops is a very laid back position for freewheeling down a shallow gradient where you see no need to be near the brake levers; or powering up a hill.

A rider's position could be as much as 10mm out on an 'off the peg' bike, but his musculature will adapt/build to compensate.

Even if there is a 10mm discrepency somewhere, after a few hundred miles, it will feel totally natural.

 

[www.sub7bikes.co.uk]

The frame size is good,dont worry on that front,probably go for a 120mm from centre to centre size stem.

 

[Randochap]

That would depend more on the geometry and intended purpose of the bike. I you didn't get something race specific, then that's not surprising.

True and not true. Both my custom "sport tourers" w/ 700c wheels don't have toe overlap, yet my Rivendell Bleriot with 650B wheels (and bigger tyres) does. But yes, it's down to geometry, with my Marinonis having 74 and 75 degree seat tube angles and the Bleriot 71/71.

Compact frames are prone to overlap.

Here's how to eliminate the problem:

 

[roadiewill]

haha dont think Il learn to track stand instead...

any comments on the position randochap?

 

[roadiewill]

Ive also realised that if I relax my shoulders whilst riding on the drops then they do ben slightly, whereas if I tense up my arms are straight.