Please help : the basics of pedal removal

[fossyant]

Have you got it off yet

 

[Smurfy]

If it's an aluminium crank, heat the crank with a heat gun. The aluminium crank will expand faster than the steel pedal spindle, and help loosen the threads.

 

[cyberknight]

Adjustable spanner Cant stand these.....
A full set of ring/open end contains all the sizes you would ever need, there's no room in the tool chest for adjustables.

Hope all's well on the pedal front though ?

Where were you the other day? took my bike to lloyds today to loosen my pedals as my basic spanner did not cut it, mind you i wanted the BB replacing as well and my fettling time is hampered by the wife and kids .

 

[grumpyoldgit]

One of my few Park tools,a pedal spanner,worth the investment.

 

[TheDoctor]

Pukka pedal spanner. Longer the better. Leverage is your friend here.
And FFS keep your hand away from the chainrings, or things can get very hurty indeed. DAMHIKT.

 

[Tim Hall]

Pukka pedal spanner. Longer the better. Leverage is your friend here.
And FFS keep your hand away from the chainrings, or things can get very hurty indeed. DAMHIKT.

Put the chain on the big ring, to minimise hurty potential.

 

[TheDoctor]

Yes, well I know that now!

 

[GrasB]

Why and how? The "foot" method Helson90's link shown is what I have used, numerous times. Not much difference to stepping on a pedal with just one foot while holding the bike stationary (one hand gripping a brake lever to stop bike moving and the other holding the saddle works). It will not cause injuries to hand or back that most other methods can easily do, and I can't see how it can damage the frame either.

It is not always possible to position the pedal spanner (yes one should use a pedal spanner) to be inline with the crank arm at 3 o'clock as shown, but it is keeping the angle of the spanner at 9 or 10 o'clock that is important, the crank arm does not have to be at exactly 3 o'clock for the principle to work just fine.

IF the spanner slips off it tends to bounce on the floor then make a bee line for the down tube. The two cases I've seen where this has happen it's resulted in a hole in the down tube (a carbon frame & aluminium frame)

 

[Shut Up Legs]

I'm still trying to remove a stuck left-hand pedal, and to make matters worse, I think I've damaged the hex bolt that holds it. In other words, it's the pedal type that requires a hex wrench to undo. I've already bought a new crankset and pair of pedals (which can be installed/removed using a normal pedal wrench, not a hex wrench). If all else fails and I simply can't remove the pedal, then I'll just wait until the current pedals are completely worn, then just replace the whole crankset. A slightly expensive way to take care of a stuck pedal, though .

 

[GrasB]

Did this method not work? If so
1. crank in a vice so the alen socket is pointing up.
2. get good quality impact internal hex drive head for a 1/2" breaker bar (450-600mm, no longer)
3. MAKE SURE YOU ARE ABSOLUTELY KNOW WHICH WAY YOU'RE UNDOING THE PEDAL.
4. With a 0.5-1.5kg dead weight hammer gently tap the breaker bar to do the pedal up about 1/3 up the breaker bar 2 or 3 times
5. Undo while applying enough pressure to see the bar bow across the middle 1/3 a little bit & hold.

If you get stage 3 wrong you'll either strip the threads of something or near as damn it friction weld the pedal to the cranks.

 

[Steve Saunders]

definitely put the chain on the big ring before you start ... I learnt the hard way, as the chainrings will slice you open very very easily if you slip - nasty!

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

IF the spanner slips off it tends to bounce on the floor then make a bee line for the down tube. The two cases I've seen where this has happen it's resulted in a hole in the down tube (a carbon frame & aluminium frame)

Sounds completely far-fetched to me. But even if the possibility exists it would not need much more than a piece of rug/rag to stop it happening would it?

 

[Smurfy]

I'm still trying to remove a stuck left-hand pedal, and to make matters worse, I think I've damaged the hex bolt that holds it. In other words, it's the pedal type that requires a hex wrench to undo. I've already bought a new crankset and pair of pedals (which can be installed/removed using a normal pedal wrench, not a hex wrench). If all else fails and I simply can't remove the pedal, then I'll just wait until the current pedals are completely worn, then just replace the whole crankset. A slightly expensive way to take care of a stuck pedal, though .

When buying pedals, if they have only a hex socket and no spanner flats, I just walk away. On the bright side, you could try my earlier tip which involves heating the aluminium crank with a hot air gun (aluminium expands faster than the steel pedal spindle, and the differential in expansion will help loosen the threads). If that doesn't work, you have to trash the pedal body, and then use a stud remover on the steel spindle that you're left with.

definitely put the chain on the big ring before you start ... I learnt the hard way, as the chainrings will slice you open very very easily if you slip - nasty!

I have an extremely thick pair of welding gloves for jobs like this.