Pedal removal....it was all going to plan

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Venod

Eh up
Location
Yorkshire
I have one that wont shift, I have had the crank off and tried everything except heat (don't want to damage the crank) the Allen key hole is now rounded so the only way I am going to shift it is scrap the pedal (strip it and use large Stillson to grip it) as its OK at the moment I will leave it till it expires.

If you can't shift it is unlikely to be creaking in the threads, you can strip and service the pedal while it is still attached to the crank.

Like you I will steer clear of pedals without flats (athough this is the first I have failed to remove with an Allen key)
 
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e-rider

Banned member
Location
South West
don't bother with heating - to get enough heat to actually work you will damage the crank arm; or at least it's finish
you need a longer lever - try a long torque wrench with 8mm allen bit fitted
and next time grease the threads and torque them to 40Nm and no more!
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Which Pedal is it ? You can undo the locknut and remove XT pedals from the axel for servicing - no need to undo the axel.

The hex sockets aren't the best idea for securing a pedal. That's how XT are fitted.
 

steveindenmark

Legendary Member
You undo them by turning the spanner towards the back of the bike on both pedals.

Just to make sure you are doing that.
 

mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
try a long torque wrench with 8mm allen bit fitted
I thought using torque wrenches to loosen stuff was a very bad idea?
 

subaqua

What’s the point
Location
Leytonstone
maybe it is, can I change that to very long handled wrench? My torque wrench (the click type) keeps going after the click - does it get damaged if you do that?


it can .

A torque wrench doesn't change the laws of physics and enable you to apply more torque for a breaker bar of the same length.

I never use a ratchet to undo bolts for same reason, always a bar until the seal is "broken"

a naked flame will generally damage the paint finish if not used right. you don't need a lot of heat though a decent hairdryer will do the job . that and an ice pack. warm the crank arm where the pedal spindle goes in and then put the ice pack on the pedal spindle . you should get enough movement to get the pedal out .

then when you refit , make sure the threaded part has a good dab of coppaslip. ( its no worse for you than any other grease )
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
The way to do it is to place the pedal spanner alongside the crank so you have as close as possible to an "out and back" lever. Set them horizontally so that pressing down turns the spanner towards the back of the bike then appying the brake, stand on the spanner. Your body weight should be effectively as close as possbile to the BB centre so the crank shouldn't turn at all, but the pedals spindle will take all your weight.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
If you've a big bench vice you can try squeezing the sides of the crank in it. The idea is to ovalize the hole and break whatever bond has formed between steel spindle and aluminium crank.
An 8ft scaffold pole over the end of the allen key is the other option. This is long enough so that even a small child can put enough torque through it while you hold your bike. Good for teaching said small child about levers too - because they get a big charge out of being able to undo something that adult could not manage.
 

Mr Celine

Discordian
But the drive side pedal is righty tighty lefty loosey so turning clockwise tightens it. I an looking from the pedal side of the crank arm

Your OP said your pedals don't have spanner flats, they only have hex sockets. As you have to loosen or tighten these from the back of the crank you have to turn the drive side pedal spindle clockwise to loosen it. (Looking from the front of the crank the pedal will be loosening anti-clockwise.)
 
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