Pedal fell off AGAIN!

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OP
OP
Willam

Willam

Über Member
Something that has been bugging me is how deep the threads are and how shallow the splines are. I’m sure you should not have that many threads as they are just for the top cap.

See this image and note the inside of LH crank seems to have much deeper spines. The silver threaded bit in your image just looks wrong.

View attachment 625160
Don’t say that, I bought a load of stuff from an online shop I’ve never used before, better not be counterfeit lol

Think it’s just the pic that is making it look a little off. I’m sure it’s the real deal as the shop has amazing reviews.
 

figbat

Slippery scientist
Something that has been bugging me is how deep the threads are and how shallow the splines are. I’m sure you should not have that many threads as they are just for the top cap.

See this image and note the inside of LH crank seems to have much deeper spines. The silver threaded bit in your image just looks wrong.

View attachment 625160
Good point. The preload thread should be on the crankshaft not in the crank arm. Now I look again it looks like that threaded collar shouldn’t be there.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
I’m also beginning to think this is counterfeit. Little known shop never used before. Amazing reviews, well they would be if selling at well below market prices. All the markers are there, plus the item is not performing as it should.
 

Ming the Merciless

There is no mercy
Location
Inside my skull
Don’t say that, I bought a load of stuff from an online shop I’ve never used before, better not be counterfeit lol

Think it’s just the pic that is making it look a little off. I’m sure it’s the real deal as the shop has amazing reviews.

Ha, reviews aren’t worth anything. I’d be especially suspicious of amazing reviews about crank arms. Who the hell leaves those?

Can you show a picture of inside that crank arm with it sitting above a bit of plain cardboard or paper?
 

T4tomo

Legendary Member
Good point. The preload thread should be on the crankshaft not in the crank arm. Now I look again it looks like that threaded collar shouldn’t be there.
I think it is. 1 is the inside view of the spindle/ crankshaft, 2 is the inside of the crank arm. Maybe more of the splines in 2 should be covered so the top cap engages into more thread in 1?

1641465047487.png


maybe it is a fake, the OP's use of the word Shamino may not have been a typo :laugh:
 

the snail

Guru
Location
Chippenham
... You also need to use the preload cap with some force ...
No you don't, the cap only needs to be finger tight, enough to eliminate play. Also, tightening the bolts more isn't the answer - if the crank is assembled correctly, the crank cannot fall off, even if the bolt is loose. If your crank falls off either you have incompatible parts, or you assembled them incorrectly.
 

Dogtrousers

Kilometre nibbler
Bring back cotter pins!:evil:
 

C R

Guru
Location
Worcester
No you don't, the cap only needs to be finger tight, enough to eliminate play. Also, tightening the bolts more isn't the answer - if the crank is assembled correctly, the crank cannot fall off, even if the bolt is loose. If your crank falls off either you have incompatible parts, or you assembled them incorrectly.
Shimano documents specify 1Nm as the maximum torque for the cap, just about finger tight should be good enough. From the image above it is clear that the shaft is a long way out, and the safety tab will not have engaged in the shaft.
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Shimano documents specify 1Nm as the maximum torque for the cap, just about finger tight should be good enough. From the image above it is clear that the shaft is a long way out, and the safety tab will not have engaged in the shaft.
Maybe there could be a little more thread showing from the spindle. This is mine with the crank pulled fully on.
 

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