Outer cable sizes and changing sporadic to full length outer sheath.

[blueschill]

Ok so I'm building a bike for the first time and ran into something that should be quite simple but it's not for me

I have my new brake cable and outer sheath, I have noticed the that brake cable is thicker than my gear cable by about 1mm I think.

Question.1

My brake cable outer sheath is built like this: outer sheath, wire spiral, inner sheath.

Is the gear outer sheath built the same? I mean that the brake outer seems to be reinforced is the outer gear cable the same?


It's just so when I look for a cable I know I am getting the right one.


Question. 2

When the cables run along your bike, they have gaps where the cable outer sheath stops and your can see the inner cable like when your sitting on your bike and look down.

I want to run a outer sheath from gear and brake shifters straight to the derailleur and brakes with out any gaps to make weather proof and for aesthetics, how can I do this?
My frame has lugs to hold the cable sheaths and I don't know how I'm going to run a full length of outer cable through them, will I have to drill them!!??? I really hope not.

All advice is welcome.

Cheers

bob.

 

[Cubist]

Question one
Gear cable is reinforced longitudinally, so that it doesn't compress.

Question 2

You can either drill out the stops or you can use hose clips. Google BBB hydroguides. If you can't find any I have some spares.

 

[Davidc]

The last cable set I bought uses the same outer for both cable types. Not sure of the construction but it seems to work OK.

I've always used the cable stops on my frames, just put a ferrule on each cable end. Never had a problem with corrosion or the look of the exposed inner. (but I do always use good quality cables and outers so wouldn't expect corrosion of either).

I'd be disinclined to drill out the braze-ons on the frame as it's very difficult to reverse the process if you change your mind. Cubist's suggestion looks better, or you could use cable ties.

 

[4F]

I think hose clips would not be pleasing to the eye and I would use what is on the frame along with the ferrule as per DavidC's post above. When I recently changed all my cables the gear cable like yours was smaller.

 

[Cubist]

I killed my mtb cables in one ride, three hours of torrential rain. Admittedly it was a technical trail ride ans meant a helluva lot of gear changes, but the water ingress killed the outers. I used the hydro guides to make a single cable run. I'm not bothered so much about aesthetics, but the guides look fine, and give me a kinder, smoother worry free gear change.

 

[blueschill]

I was investigating my bike today and decided that I'm definitely widening the lugs for a full run of outer, given that I'm about to start cycling in the winter as a beginner, I want at least problems as possible.

They look too close to the frame for drilling although I have some fancy tools being an electrician to get round that so I think that will be last resort , it's gonna a hand filing jobby I think just like back in 'shop' ha ha ha my design tech teacher would be proud lol

I did a lot of research on the net last night and although it's not easy yo find, I managed to dig up and find a lot, so it's now moved more from aesthetics to functionality and reliability.

It's an ally frame so should file easy enough I should think,. Besides it's not like it's an expensive frame.



Q I wonder why they don't come with adjustable lugs/different system and fully housed cables?
I understand the weight aspect but it's not that much, I think the reliability wins over the weight issue.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Q I wonder why they don't come with adjustable lugs/different system and fully housed cables?
I understand the weight aspect but it's not that much, I think the reliability wins over the weight issue.

Cable outer is going to be more compressible than the bridges provided by welded/brazed lugs. That is not to say it is never used - folding bikes often have full length cable outers to ensure the cables don't flop about when folded.

 

[compo]

Why not simply use cable ties through the lugs to secure the cable housing to the frame. They would hardly notice.

 

[sreten]

Hi,

Brake cable tends to be spiral wound whist gear cable is laminar.
The latter should not be used be brake cables. The along the cable
outer reduces change of length when its bent, but it can split open.

(Some cable is designed for both, most cable isn't AFAIK.)

The bare section of wire improve the feel of the brake and the
precision of the gear changing, as well as saving a little weight.
They also make it easy to unclip the housing and oil the
cables taking advantage of the open section in the middle.

rgds, sreten.

 

[blueschill]

I'm
Still torn between what to do

 

[02GF74]

Drilling out the cable stops is easier said than done - I have done it only so I can fit brake hoses in place of cables and there is no way to get a drill in - I used a dremel and needle files and it took a long time!!!.

If you do regular maintenacne on your bike, sticking cables should not be an issue but I suspect you are looking for a fit and forget solution,
! am pretty sure there are gear and brake cables that have the stainless steel inner wire running inside a plastic or teflon tube - so they are sealed and no need to drill the stops. This would be my suggestion to you.

 

[sreten]

I'm
Still torn between what to do

Hi,
Then your best bet is nothing, things aren't mostly the way they are for no good reason.
The ease of properly oiling cables would win out for me over alleged protection.
rgds, sreten.

 

[lpretro1]

Use stainless inner wires - they last longer and less prone to oxidisation than the galvanised type which is often hat causes them to drag in the outer casing.

 

[fossyant]

You could always run gore or similar systems with a full length sheath, and eliminate any need to drill out.