Ok some very basic puncture advice pleeze

[Ian H]

In forty something years of cycling I've never had to use levers to fit a tyre. Some do require patience. The occasional one requires both patience and a medium-sized repertoire of obscenities. If you really do need to use levers it's probably helpful to put a little air into the tube, just enough to give it shape.

 

[adscrim]

I've always used levers and have never managed to puncture a tube.
Surely you've got to use tyre levers esp for ones such as M+ - nevermind levers they need a friggin' crowbar.

+1

I find that when you get to the final few inches, don't just stick the lever in at the middle and try to get the whole lot on in one go. Hold the tyre in at one side and work your way towards it with the lever.

 

[threebikesmcginty]

In forty something years of cycling I've never had to use levers to fit a tyre. Some do require patience. The occasional one requires both patience and a medium-sized repertoire of obscenities. If you really do need to use levers it's probably helpful to put a little air into the tube, just enough to give it shape.

Yes, I always put enough air in to give the tube shape and it stops it getting caught.

Although I use levers I still swear - is that OK?

 

[MacB]

I've always used levers and have never managed to puncture a tube.
Surely you've got to use tyre levers esp for ones such as M+ - nevermind levers they need a friggin' crowbar.

It took me by surprise, these weren't new M+'s and have been on 3 different rims, all by hand only. I did notice that the sidewalls on the Sputniks rims were very deep, braking surface about 15mm deep compared to 10mm for the A719. So I'll try using the VAR lever, if it only saves my thumbs that's good.

The other option is to fit the opposite way round. I normally seat the tyre at the valve and then work away from there. Others suggest that, for a tight tyre, you need to be able to get the tyre right down to the rim tape, as you go round, to maximise slack for fitting. They indicate that the valve itself can interfere with this so to work back towards the valve.

 

[Ian H]

I was taught to finish at the valve. As more of the bead goes over the rim, I work back round the tyre pushing the fitted part into the central well. That way you can ensure the bead sits right down in the bottom of the well to give maximum room for pushing the remainder over the rim. Starting at the valve will make that more difficult. It also doesn't help to have too great a thicjness of rim tape, because that also can affect the tightness of the tyre when fitting.

 

[MacB]

I was taught to finish at the valve. As more of the bead goes over the rim, I work back round the tyre pushing the fitted part into the central well. That way you can ensure the bead sits right down in the bottom of the well to give maximum room for pushing the remainder over the rim. Starting at the valve will make that more difficult. It also doesn't help to have too great a thicjness of rim tape, because that also can affect the tightness of the tyre when fitting.

Yep, I'm going to give that a go, I was following Sheldon Brown advice by starting at the valve.

 

[BigSid]

I've always finished at the valve as it allows you to push the valve in to lift the inner tube so it doesn't get trapped.

 

[ugly]

"I pump the tyres up to max 120psi as per the tyre wall max."

120psi is a lot of air! The ride must be sharp to say the least. This is the maximum safe pressure not the recommended pressure. I use 25mm gatorskins at 95psi and I weigh 15 stone (and a bit). Nice lively ride, with my fillings intact and few flats.

 

[arallsopp]

I almost always ride at 95% max pressure. Anything else risks pinch punctures. Mind you, I can't de-weight my bike.

 

[lukesdad]

I always use the heel of my hand to finnish the tyre off not my thumbs.