Oil or specific chain lube?

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Drago

Legendary Member
Diff oil. Cheap as chips, clings well, doesnt fling, better shear resistance than refular oils, and smells a bit like gun oil. That's a win all round. A litre for 3 or 4 quid will outlast you.

As for the cycling specific stuff, the claims are bull, the prices laughable. Some of the cycling lubes costs several thousand pounds a gallon when you scale it up, so someone somewhere is tacking the mick.
 

davidphilips

Phil Pip
Location
Onabike
After reading i am starting to wonder if i have it wrong as i use thin oil in the believe that it gets into the rollors better than a thick oil? Hope Yellow Saddle will help us out on this thread as his knowledge and experience are always very welcome and worth taking.
 

overmind

My other bike is a Pinarello

BrumJim

Forum Stalwart (won't take the hint and leave...)
Actually, no, it's not *that* gloopy... OK, it's probably a little thicker than pukka bike oil, but it works well and actually, doesn't attract as much muck as you'd think. The trick is to use one rag to apply generously, leave for a bit, spin the transmission a few times to make sure it gets to where it needs to get to, then use another rag to wipe off the excess.

Really? I made that mistake once. The chainsaw oil was very gloopy indeed. It seems to be designed to clink to the chain regardless of how fast it is rotating, and served as a magnet for every bit of dirt within a 20 mile radius. Don't think the chain ever recovered from that.
 
On tour I have scavenged empty motor gear oil containers which contain plenty of oil. The problem is that it attracts dirt very quickly. OK if you have nothing else. It may work better if diluted with diesel. Again, the garage pump usually contain enough petrol or diesel for chain cleaning without pumping any more, just drain out the nozzle into a can.
 
Really? I made that mistake once. The chainsaw oil was very gloopy indeed. It seems to be designed to clink to the chain regardless of how fast it is rotating, and served as a magnet for every bit of dirt within a 20 mile radius. Don't think the chain ever recovered from that.

There are chainsaw oils and chainsaw oils. Some are very definitely much thicker and stickier than others, especially the big name branded ones like Duckhams. The oil I use is an Ernest Doe own brand, which is one of the thinner ones. I prefer it for my saws because it doesn't gum up the innards with sticky, sawdusty goo.

Works well on my bikes too - I can't say that it attracts dirt any more or any worse than any other oil I've used.
 
Location
London
Yep, that's fit the bill.
How liquid is it drago?

I follow a certain esteemed bike tech person who reckons that fairly liquid stuff may be rather beneficial in that it flushes crap out of the chain as you ride. I also find it handy for wiping/"cleaning" the outside of the chain when I apply more oil.

I take on board what you say about the repackaging of lube to cyclists at inflated prices, but see this as a fair compromise:

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com...MIoam1gbX-5wIVyRnTCh0VHg1tEAQYASABEgL13fD_BwE

Also available in smaller applicators from weldtite as well of course - screw off top on that allows you to decant the above 1 litre thing into those applicators.

It doesn't seem to attract muck - unlike the Finish Line Cross Country I used for a while.

No problem at all to apply some more after rain.

I have also long suspected that this:

https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-a...lon-surface-protect-protector-100ml/p/0344046

is the same stuff but haven't yet conducted my finger sniff/taste test.

Reports back from public-spirited brave guinea pigs welcome.

Both of them are my favoured oil - have been for a while after various roundabout oily adventures.
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
It's worth noting that in the motorcycle world, chains exist with sealing rings between the link parts, and to me that means that internally worn off material gets locked up / can't escape. This set against a plus side that external potentially wear increasing particles can't get in too.
Since such chains exist and even alot more expensive, it indicates that the min side is the least worse.
 

Randy Butternubs

Über Member
It's worth noting that in the motorcycle world, chains exist with sealing rings between the link parts, and to me that means that internally worn off material gets locked up / can't escape. This set against a plus side that external potentially wear increasing particles can't get in too.
Since such chains exist and even alot more expensive, it indicates that the min side is the least worse.

Sealed chains are standard for all road-going motorcycles and have been for a long time; even my old 80's bikes had them from the factory I think. They are low maintenance and can last for tens of thousands of miles. It's a shame they aren't suitable for bicycles. A friend of mine managed to kill an unsealed chain in two dirty rides once. I hadn't considered that they would keep wear particles in before.
 

silva

Über Member
Location
Belgium
I have the impression that worn off alu particles are more abrasive/accelerating wear than worn off steel particles.

Another thought, what happens to worn off steel in a closed environment / escape not possible? They can't get out so they stay, and sit between the mating surfaces of pens / bushings. I think they might prevent a chain elongating - in the end, the material is worn off but still present so no free room so no elongation. Likely, they get rounded off, and maybe they decrease wear similar to the rollers of a roller chain, act as a kinda lubrication.

Everytime I oil my fixed gear chain, particles escape (have to wipe the black off), and the chain elongates alot in a short time, to then stabilize, until the chain become to dry and I relube.
 
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