Norway Top to Bottom

[Crankarm]

Hi All,
I'm thinking of touring Norway up or down the coast this summer taking a couple of weeks. I have been inspired by this travelogue. Norway looks absolutely stunning and a great place to tour on a bike.

http://www.eftel.com.au/~wheelbuddies/norway/

I'm not sure whether to cycle from Kristiansand up to the Nordkapp or in reverse ie travel up there first and ride back? Is the direction of the prevailing wind a major consideration? What's the best way to get up there first or return? Train, bus or plane? Also the best month on which to tackle the route. I would like to follow the coast and islands as closely as possible. I read also that some tunnels are designated no cycling. Is it the case that an alternative route nearby is available or are you stuck?
Also how cheap/expensive are the camp sites? Is two weeks sufficient to do the route or am I setting myself up to fail so planning to tour part of the coast would be wiser given time constraints. What's the best month to do it?

I would appreciate very much any advice, comments or tips however small, don't feel shy, from anyone who has toured Norway plus getting there from UK and return. Boat I guess from Newcastle would be the best?

Thanks in anticipation.
Crankarm

 

[stewie griffin]

I've gone up to Bodo by motorcycle, I believe you can get there by ferry from the UK.
As far as time of year, I think August is about it for cycling/camping in the north, though I stand to be corrected.
Keep in mind your looking at close to 3000kms (I'm told if you pivot Norway 180 by its most southerly point, Nordkapp would hit Morocco!),might be pushing it considering the demanding terrain.
Norway is expensive!

 

[rualexander]

I'm told if you pivot Norway 180 by its most southerly point, Nordkapp would hit Morocco!

This sounded a bit unlikely so I just measured it on Google Earth, Norway top to bottom straight line is 1724km, bottom of Norway to top of Morocco is 2600km, 1700km gets as far as the Pyrenees.
No doubt by road Norway tip to tip would indeed be in excess of 3000km though.
I cycled from Bergen to Andalsnes for my first ever foreign tour back in 1989 and it was great but food expensive and weather damp (August).

 

[psmiffy]

I have cycled Bodo to Stavanger (3 weeks) and from Swedish border to Stavanger – got to Bodo using ferry to Bergen from Newcastle (no more) and trains (masochistic but interesting). I am moment planning to cycle to Bodo via Finland and Sweden onto Northkapp returning via Finland.
Mainly toured there in late August to September – rained a lot – speaking to people a bit earlier would have been better
Tunnels can be a problem but can be avoided using islands and the short ferries along coast – but you need to know your ferry timetables and where the tunnels are – cyclotourer - has a web page showing where most of the banned tunnels are – good idea to have some decent lights particularly at the rear
The high bridges can be a bit tricky when the wind blows hard
Shops open late and shut early where they exist – in the north its best to buy things when you see them as a lot of the small shops do not have a lot of stock (south of Bergen much better)
Campsites are reasonably spaced and well equipped and wild camping is allowed
Its a long way for 2 weeks

 

[stewie griffin]

This sounded a bit unlikely so I just measured it on Google Earth, Norway top to bottom straight line is 1724km, bottom of Norway to top of Morocco is 2600km, 1700km gets as far as the Pyrenees.

Yep, totally wrong, guess I should have checked before repeating something that sounded a bit extream.
Is it too late to chance Morocco to Rome?

 

[Crankarm]

Thanks for the comments so far. Maybe I can stretch to 3 weeks.

psmiffy - So ferries from Newcastle to anywhere on Norwegian coast are no more or just Bodo? How about to Stavanger? Suppose I should do a more thorough search on the net. Why is train travel masochistic? Are bikes not welcome on Norwegian trains? It would seem there is only a small window for fine stable weather around the Northkapp. Maybe I should start in the south and work north seeing how far I get in the time I have. I thought of travelling by train/bus up north from say Kristiansand as I thought major place will have the train route/bus links. When you say expensive, how much more expensive than the UK? I will be camping so intend to be more or less self sufficient. Will do a mix of wild and camp grounds.

 

[psmiffy]

Crankarm

I think the DFDS to Bergen and Stavanger from/to Newcastle was discontinued last year - I was lucky to get one of the last coming back

Trains - 8hrs Bergen to Oslo (one of world greatest rail trips rising to 1500m?) 10hrs Oslo to Trondheim - wait 8hrs - 13hrs Trondheim to Bodo Masochistic yes - otherwise not a problem

 

[stewie griffin]

I thought of travelling by train/bus up north from say Kristiansand as I thought major place will have the train route/bus links.

Road traffic going north usually travels up through Sweden as the roads are much faster. I'm guessing if there is a bus that travels the length of Norway it's going to take quite a long time.

 

[Crankarm]

Norway

I've been doing a little searching and the only boat option available is via Denmark. Another boat then goes on to Egersund and Stavanger and up the coast. Psmiffy you were right to get a tour in of Norway before the DFDS ferries finished. It's a real pity they finished. Getting there would be so much easier. I guess they weren't making that much money plus the ferry disaster. Now the only practical alternative is flying . I found a return flight to Alesund with SAS for £241 in July. But that price doesn't take into account taking a bike. I'm really reluctant to have to take apart my bike package it up and entrust it to an airline. So I think I will just have to be satisfied reading of others tours in this beautiful country. Maybe I can just do the train journey you mentioned and have a less energetic holiday. Thanks for your help.
Crankarm.

 

[psmiffy]

The demise of the Newcastle to Stavanger ferry is a real shame - not least because a lot of Norwegians come across to tour in northern England and Scotland because its warmer and drier!

 

[Dayvo]

I don't know if it's still operational, but I found this:

http://www.directferries.co.uk/routes.htm

Looks OK for ferries to Norway from Newcastle.

 

[psmiffy]

No - it would seem to be a defunct link -this indicates they have finished
http://www.directferries.co.uk/newcastle_stavanger_ferry.htm

 

[Dayvo]

I stand corrected. Thanks psmiffy!

Without going into too much detail, it's a very ambitious project to plan cycling along the coast roads. They are very steep and high and would take considerable time and effort.

I'd recommend starting at Nordkapp, cycle down into Finland, Sweden, and cut across to Trondheim, then follow Gudbrandsdalen to Oslo, then take the coast road down to Kristiansand.

There'll be a mixture of mountain, forest, countryside, valley and coast.

 

[psmiffy]

and too many trees

 

[Dayvo]

And not to mention the mosquitoes!