New hand built wheels query

[50000tears]

Wasn't sure where to post this but as it may end up being a total doh moment for me I will start it here.

Just checked out my newly installed hand builds on my bike that I picked up from my LBS today and just want to make sure that everything is as it should be. My query is regarding the spokes. On the rear wheel I have a 24 spoke pattern and where some of the spokes cross each other the spokes have a slight bend at the cross over point. Whilst this just may be a feature of it being impossible for two objects to occupy the same space at the same time in one or two of the spokes the change of direction is more of a "kink" than a slight bend.

Is this just normal and me being paranoid about nothing or have my wheels not been built as well as they could? I haven't had a chance to ride the bike yet properly and wont until the weekend but there is very little lateral movement so they seem true enough to my untrained eye. The LBS guy has been in the business for a lot of years and has a ton on knowledge and experience so would hope that it is just me worrying over nothing.

 

[I like Skol]

Yep, the bend/kink at the contact point is completely normal and is the 'standard' way to lace a wheel. In fact the first wheel I ever built (hidden away in my dads shed as a teenager, making it up as I went along) was laced without the spokes contacting at the cross because I didn't realise it was 'wrong' but it didn't seem to affect the wheels performance and was only pointed out by a keen cycling friend when I asked him to check the wheel before I used it.

 

[50000tears]

Yep, the bend/kink at the contact point is completely normal and is the 'standard' way to lace a wheel. In fact the first wheel I ever built (hidden away in my dads shed as a teenager, making it up as I went along) was laced without the spokes contacting at the cross because I didn't realise it was 'wrong' but it didn't seem to affect the wheels performance and was only pointed out by a keen cycling friend when I asked him to check the wheel before I used it.

Many thanks. I tend to over worry about things, and all night was wondering if I had just spent £300 on a new set of wheels to only end up with something worse than stock! This is a big weight off thanks again.

 

[Old Plodder]

Just a little tip for you, if you spin your wheel slowly & hold a small screwdriver against the spokes it should have a high pitched sound as it hits each spoke in turn, if you hear a dull sound, that spoke needs re tensioning. Your LBS should have said to bring the wheels back for re tensioning after about fifty miles usage, once re tensioned, they shouldn't need touching again. That is the beauty of hand built wheels.

NB. Where the spokes cross is part of a wheel's strength, likely you will see a spoke goes over two others before it goes inside the third, just before reaching the rim, 3X pattern.

 

[50000tears]

Just a little tip for you, if you spin your wheel slowly & hold a small screwdriver against the spokes it should have a high pitched sound as it hits each spoke in turn, if you hear a dull sound, that spoke needs re tensioning. Your LBS should have said to bring the wheels back for re tensioning after about fifty miles usage, once re tensioned, they shouldn't need touching again. That is the beauty of hand built wheels.

NB. Where the spokes cross is part of a wheel's strength, likely you will see a spoke goes over two others before it goes inside the third, just before reaching the rim, 3X pattern.

Thanks for this. No my LBS said to bring them in for a re-tension after a few weeks rather than 50 miles. Basically when they start going out of true due to settling.

 

[buggi]

I'm about to get my first hand built wheels. Are they much better?

 

[50000tears]

I'm about to get my first hand built wheels. Are they much better?

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/wheel-upgrade-my-verdict.150416/

 

[Old Plodder]

Simple answer = YES.

 

[buggi]

http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/wheel-upgrade-my-verdict.150416/

 

[50000tears]

Simple answer = YES.

But why use one word when a few hundred will do?!

 

[maltloaf]

Balanced tension between the spokes is a big one. If every spoke is tensioned correctly and the same as the others then the wheel should stay in true.

I'm liking old plodder's tip above as the note should remain the same. I'll be trying that tomorrow.

I bought a pair of someone's old handbuilts off eBay as I couldn't afford to buy new they arrived in decent nick but seemed severely under tensioned and sure enough went out of true every ride.

I spent ages tensioning them up and I reckon I put about a turn and a half into every nipple. Now they are lovely and haven't budged out of true at all.

I think the seller probably sold them for about a quarter of their value because of this and all they needed were a bit of time spending on them.

 

[Spoked Wheels]

Thanks for this. No my LBS said to bring them in for a re-tension after a few weeks rather than 50 miles. Basically when they start going out of true due to settling.

A well built wheel should not need any re-tensioning. I don't think any of the big boys in wheel building expect wheels to come back for re-tensioning after a few weeks. On the other hand, if you are hitting large potholes then your wheels will need a bit further attention.

Spokes correctly tensioned, balanced tension and correctly stress relieved wheels don't go out of true due to settling. Assuming the wheels were properly specified for rider and riding type.

 

[simon.r]

A well built wheel should not need any re-tensioning. I don't think any of the big boys in wheel building expect wheels to come back for re-tensioning after a few weeks. On the other hand, if you are hitting large potholes then your wheels will need a bit further attention.

Spokes correct tensioned, balanced tension and correctly stress relieved wheels don't go out of true due to settling. Assuming the wheels were properly specified for rider and riding type.

I suspect having to return wheels for re-tensioning after a period is a bit of an anachronism. It was necessary years ago, but improved materials now mean a good builder won't have to re-tension.

 

[50000tears]

To be fair the guy who built them didn't refer to them necessarily needing re-tensioning, but just said to bring the bike back in after a few weeks, or if I felt they had gone out of tension for effectively a check up and tweak if necessary. I called it re-tensioning above just through my own ignorance in the whole hand building of wheels and what to expect after.

I should add though, that although I know he has done thousands of wheels over the last 20+ years, and that a lot of the local club riders use him, I don't actually know how good or bad a wheel builder he is. I will certainly check the wheels weekly to see if they have stayed true, but will have to trust at the moment that I haven't made a mistake in getting hand builts.

 

[I like Skol]

A well built wheel should not need any re-tensioning. I don't think any of the big boys in wheel building expect wheels to come back for re-tensioning after a few weeks. On the other hand, if you are hitting large potholes then your wheels will need a bit further attention.

Spokes correctly tensioned, balanced tension and correctly stress relieved wheels don't go out of true due to settling. Assuming the wheels were properly specified for rider and riding type.

I never have to re-true/re-tension mine after the initial build amd I am not claiming to be a master wheel builder and I am also quite brutal to my wheels