New chain set/crank
- Thread starter rocky2011
- Start date
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RecordAceFromNew
Swinging Member
- Location
- West London
You obviously have many choices.
According to Suntour this is your chainset's spec.
If you are going to do the switch yourself, I would suggest you check to ensure yours is square tapered - you should be able to see 4 flat surfaces where the bottom bracket spindle meets the crank arms. It is good to check because quite a few manufacturers sell the same crankset model with different attachment configurations.
If it is indeed square tapered, and assuming your bottom bracket is ok and not needing to be replaced, a direct replacement should be a crankset that requires a 113mm JIS spindle to deliver the chainline of your current chainset (e.g. a Shimano Deore M442 chainset for square taper will deliver a 50mm chainline with a 113mm UN26). Either way it is important to ensure the current chainline is maintained, otherwise the switch can have knock-on effects on the performance of the front mech.
You could of course just get the same chainset if you have been happy with it.
Tool-wise, it depends on how the chainset is fixed to the bottom bracket. Park has a good guide. Similarly for pedals.
If you don't have much tools and if a crank puller is required, something like this toolkit could save you a lot of money in the long run.
According to Suntour this is your chainset's spec.
If you are going to do the switch yourself, I would suggest you check to ensure yours is square tapered - you should be able to see 4 flat surfaces where the bottom bracket spindle meets the crank arms. It is good to check because quite a few manufacturers sell the same crankset model with different attachment configurations.
If it is indeed square tapered, and assuming your bottom bracket is ok and not needing to be replaced, a direct replacement should be a crankset that requires a 113mm JIS spindle to deliver the chainline of your current chainset (e.g. a Shimano Deore M442 chainset for square taper will deliver a 50mm chainline with a 113mm UN26). Either way it is important to ensure the current chainline is maintained, otherwise the switch can have knock-on effects on the performance of the front mech.
You could of course just get the same chainset if you have been happy with it.
Tool-wise, it depends on how the chainset is fixed to the bottom bracket. Park has a good guide. Similarly for pedals.
If you don't have much tools and if a crank puller is required, something like this toolkit could save you a lot of money in the long run.
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Or you could swap the whole lot, including the bottom bracket for a Deore Hollowtech for less than £60 if you do some research (try chain reaction and ebay sellers like absolute cycles, woollyhatshop and fastpartsforbikes) http://cgi.ebay.co.u...fe#ht_526wt_905
Money no object? Go SLX for about 30 quid more (same searches)
Pedals? Flatties or SPD?
Money no object? Go SLX for about 30 quid more (same searches)
Pedals? Flatties or SPD?
