New Chain at 700 miles?!?!?

[l4dva]

I took my spech tricross in to LBS today because I was getting a creeky sound as I was pedaling, and it wasn't such a smooth pedal motion as it used to be. It didn't happen all the time but it was there and getting worse. I assumed this was due to the bottom bracket, as my chain has always been looked after using the mickle method since day one.

The mechanic at the LBS had a look, told me my bottom braket was the cheapest thing that spech could find and they only ever last about a year max. He said it was common for big manufactures like spech to do this as its a part that you can't actually see they just put the cheapest thing in. He said I should be able to get a few months out of it but it was starting to ware out, he greased it up again and put it all back in. Has anybody else experianced this?? It sounds like I will need to buy a new bottom braket soon.

Then he looked my my chain and said it was worn out! I couldn't believe it!! The bike is 6 months old and only done apx 700 miles. He showed me how my chain was worn using a tool that measures the distance and it was worn! Apparently if I left it on any longer the casset would need changing too.
How can this be??!?! The mechanic even said that the bike has clearly been looked after and kept clean, but couldn't really tell me why it was worn out soo soon. Is this normal??? Am I doing something wrong??

 

[dtp]

I know next to nothing... but might consider getting a second opinion. Reading your post reminds me of how a stereotypical dodgy mechanic would be when you take in your 'knackered' car.

He didn't suck his teeth and wince when you asked him how much it would be?

 

[Panter]

Doesn't really help but I killed the stock chain on my SCR3 in 600 miles.

The replacement did over 2000.

 

[I am Spartacus]

I would take the opinion of the bottom bracket to another opinion.
OK the Tricross is budget, you cant get away from that.. as are ALL entry level bikes ..
With good maintenance tho.. they keep on rollin'

The oem Shimano chain.. yup it's crap.. replace and dont give it a 2nd thought to do so..

I am using a Wippermann .. and its holding up nicely..

again the cassette will be fine.. the stock Shimano is nothing special again and the gearing is all to cock for road use but hey it does the job.. you can easily source a 12-27 for about £20 quid anyway..

don't let LBS get under the skin

 

[John the Monkey]

Measuring chain wear is easy;

The standard way to measure chain wear is with a ruler or steel tape measure. This can be done without removing the chain from the bicycle. The normal technique is to measure a one-foot length, placing an inch mark of the ruler exactly in the middle of one rivet, then looking at the corresponding rivet 12 complete links away. On a new, unworn chain, this rivet will also line up exactly with an inch mark. With a worn chain, the rivet will be past the inch mark. This gives a direct measurement of the wear to the chain, and an indirect measurement of the wear to the sprockets:

• If the rivet is less than 1/16" past the mark, all is well.
• If the rivet is 1/16" past the mark, you should replace the chain, but the sprockets are probably undamaged.
• If the rivet is 1/8" past the mark, you have left it too long, and the sprockets (at least the favorite ones) will be too badly worn. If you replace a chain at the 1/8" point, without replacing the sprockets, it may run OK and not skip, but the worn sprockets will cause the new chain to wear much faster than it should, until it catches up with the wear state of the sprockets.
• If the rivet is past the 1/8" mark, a new chain will almost certainly skip on the worn sprockets, especially the smaller ones.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html#stretch

If you doubt the LBS, get a steel rule or a tape measure and have a look.

KMC chains are a good replacement for stock, imo.

 

[l4dva]

Too late for a second opinon the chain has already been changed.

But he put the exact same chain back on again a shimano HG73 9 speed (£27) Is this chain any good?

What about the bottom braket problem? Has anyone had any issue with these?

 

[numbnuts]

The bike is 6 months old and only done apx 700 miles.

700 miles I'd would have tried to sell you a new bike
I treat my chain with care and can get up to 6000 miles out of them
and I've only changed the cassette once in 18000 miles, the only thing i can put it down to the high mileage is I sit and spin and hardly ever get out of the saddle and honk

 

[I am Spartacus]

No issue with bottom brackets as far as I am aware.. the bike sounds quite new..? if further issue maybe manufacture problem.. warranty .. I would say.. i.e argue like hell to have a new one fitted..
chain.. well keep an eye on it.. keep it clean.. look out for cracked sideplates after about 500 mile

 

[l4dva]

Yeah the bike is new, got it in Feb this year. I might get another lbs to check the bottom bracket for me. Hopefully I won't get charged to much just for them to have a look.
I think next time I'll check with you guys before replacing components! I'm not sure how trust worthy my LBS now.
Thanks for all the help!!

 

[willem]

He is right though that chains and bottom brackets on budget bikes are often crap. But did he sell you this bike? Next time, fit a decent bottom bracket (the scandal is that good ones actually only cost some 15 pounds); make your bike shop change the bottom bracket under warranty. Good chains don't cost a fortune either. So don't skimp on them, because cheap chains eat up expensive cassettes. I love my Wippermann connex chains. Learn how to change cassettes and chains - it is easy, and saves a small fortune.
Willem

 

[RedBike]

Your LBS sounds right to me. You've now got to make a choice. Replace the chain now and keep replacing them when they're stretched so that you ultimately don't need to replace the cassette / chainrings

Or

Run the whole thing into the ground and replace the lot in several months time.

I normally go for the run the lot into the ground option on the commuter / MTB but my best bike gets regularly treated to new chains.

 

[AdamBlade]

I had to have the Bottom Bracket on my Giant CRS changed after only 4 months. Luckily it was under warranty. Apparently, it could have just been a faulty one but had no problems with getting it changed.

 

[l4dva]

Thanks for the tips, I think im deff going to have to learn how to change the casset/chain myself. They charged me £10 labour this time. Will have to invest in some decent tools now lol

What I don't understand is, if the chain stretches, and the casset wears down to match the chain, why can't I just leave them both in there stretched and similarly worn condition. Why dose the chain have to measure exactly what it dose on day one? I felt no loss in performance with my chain before they replaced it today, and feel no major improvement in it now with a new chain?!

 

[numbnuts]

once the chains starts to wear it will start to slip and you will push down with your foot to pull away and nothing will happen

 

[RedBike]

Thanks for the tips, I think im deff going to have to learn how to change the casset/chain myself. They charged me £10 labour this time. Will have to invest in some decent tools now lol

What I don't understand is, if the chain stretches, and the casset wears down to match the chain, why can't I just leave them both in there stretched and similarly worn condition. Why dose the chain have to measure exactly what it dose on day one? I felt no loss in performance with my chain before they replaced it today, and feel no major improvement in it now with a new chain?!

You can just leave them. (See my previous post about your two options.) The theory is that if you always replace the chain before it stretches too much then the life of your casseette / chainrings can be extended significantly.

If you let your chain wear too much then it will start to wear your cassette. Once the cassette is worn any new chain you fit will wear at a MUCH quicker rate than 'normal'. Once the cassette gets too worn it wont work with a new chain and the lot will need replacing.

You have to decide which is the best option for you. Let it all run into the ground and replace the lot once you start getting problems. Or keep replacing the chains once they're worn so that you more or less never need to replace the cassette.

On the best road bike I always repalce the chains once they start to wear. This is because it's got a £100+ dura-ace cassette and expensive chainrings i'm in no hurry to replace any time soon; and I like to keep the bike in perfect condition.
On the commuter a new sprocket (it's single speed) wont cost me much more than a chain so i'm happy to let it all run until it's completely worn out and then replace the lot.