Need a new wheel but what type?

[Ajax Bay]

I think this fella would do http://www.woollyhatshop.com/700c-hybrid-bike-rear-wheel-silver-screw-on-twr064
Thought?

At that price point it meets the criteria I listed earlier. I'd just check that the distance between your dropouts is 135ish mm to match the 'hub spacing' (aka OLN) on the WH site).

In an ideal world I would like to keep the wheel as it matched the front. How hard is it to fit a new hub to all those spokes?

Not hard but there's a fair bit of work there which will cost if you pay someone to do it, and there's the cost of the hub. And the result would be a wheel which might match but that wasn't worth it (hub plus build = £45+ say, plus cost of spokes if the hub wasn't quite the same) and the rim is perfectly fit for purpose but cheap and low spec (I think). If the 'match' mattered to me that much but I had cost constraints, I would go to our recycling centre and get a wheel in reasonable condition with a hub that met the specs (36 hole, freewheel), dismantle the old one and rebuild on the new (to me) hub, hoping that the current spokes would be the right lengths (both sides).

 

[beany_bot]

At that price point it meets the criteria I listed earlier. I'd just check that the distance between your dropouts is 135ish mm to match the 'hub spacing' (aka OLN) on the WH site).

Not hard but there's a fair bit of work there which will cost if you pay someone to do it, and there's the cost of the hub. And the result would be a wheel which might match but that wasn't worth it (hub plus build = £45+ say, plus cost of spokes if the hub wasn't quite the same) and the rim is perfectly fit for purpose but cheap and low spec (I think). If the 'match' mattered to me that much but I had cost constraints, I would go to our recycling centre and get a wheel in reasonable condition with a hub that met the specs (36 hole, freewheel), dismantle the old one and rebuild on the new (to me) hub, hoping that the current spokes would be the right lengths (both sides).

I think you are bang on on all accounts.

What I've done is bought that wheel to get me going again, and in my own time I will get a new hub and learn how to spoke it to my old wheel. Best of both worlds.

 

[Cycleops]

In an ideal world I would like to keep the wheel as it matched the front. How hard is it to fit a new hub to all those spokes?

If you haven't done it before, very hard. People on here will comment but wheel building is a bit of an art and you're going to need several tools which you may use infrequently in the future. Best let an expert do it for you.
Here's what good old Sheldon has to say: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

 

[beany_bot]

If you haven't done it before, very hard. People on here will comment but wheel building is a bit of an art and you're going to need several tools which you may use infrequently in the future. Best let an expert do it for you.
Here's what good old Sheldon has to say: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Only one way to learn though. And that's to do it. I don't "need" it done. So pointless having some one do it for me. It would be a learning exercise. I think I already have certainly most of the tools I would need.

 

[I like Skol]

If you haven't done it before, very hard. People on here will comment but wheel building is a bit of an art and you're going to need several tools which you may use infrequently in the future. Best let an expert do it for you.
Here's what good old Sheldon has to say: http://www.sheldonbrown.com/wheelbuild.html

Only one way to learn though. And that's to do it. I don't "need" it done. So pointless having some one do it for me. It would be a learning exercise. I think I already have certainly most of the tools I would need.

Beany, your attitude to wheel rebuilding is spot on. Give it a go on a wheel that isn't important. That is exactly how I started as a teenager, building a good wheel from two old ones (chromed steel rims too!) and rode that first wheel backward and forward to college for many, many trips with no problems.
As for 'special' tools required, you already have the freewheel/cassette off so only need a suitable spoke key. I still true all my wheels in the frame of the bike they are destined for, it isn't hard and to make sure the wheel is 'dished' correctly you simply flip the wheel round so the freewheel side is on the wrong side and the rim should still be central in the brakes. I use a bit of masking or electrical tape across the stays to check roundness and mark this to get the side to side trueness right, just take your time and try to get the trueness/roundness really good while the spoke tension is quite low. Good luck

EDIT: Well known fact, good handbuilt wheels are unbreakable..... I have tried!

 

[Cycleops]

I have to admit I was commenting from a position of partial ignorance. I've only seen my local repair guy here building and trying a wheel and he told me it took a long time to perfect the art. There is nothing wrong with having a go and if you have an interest in these things so much the better. There are plenty of vids on YouTube. Let us know how you get on and good luck.

 

[bonsaibilly]

I wonder whether the quality of the rim justifies that path? This wheel comes on a £200 (when new) bike.
Having said that @Brand X may have a spare hub just waiting for you (would need to be a 36 hole hub). See this thread. His spokes are breaking (but he is not a small man).

700c wheel (ie 622 in ETRTO speak). Rim needs to be at least 32 hole and at least 19mm wide. To replace like for like the hub is nutted and has a freewheel (not freehub).

When you say 19 mm wide do you mean the internal or external rim width?

Either way, I used to run 40 mm cyclocross tyres on my old Fulcrum R5 wheels (which had an internal of 15 mm and I think external of 19 mm), with no problems.

 

[Ajax Bay]

When you say 19 mm wide do you mean the internal or external rim width?

Internal.

Either way, I used to run 40 mm cyclocross tyres on my old Fulcrum R5 wheels (which had an internal of 15 mm

You can get away with straying from the guidelines (and see caveat), but if you are speccing a replacement wheel, go for the median (ie 622-19) for 35mm width tyres (see OP) or 622-17 for 32mm tyres. That way you could fit larger (or smaller) if desired.

 

[fossyant]

Beany, your attitude to wheel rebuilding is spot on. Give it a go on a wheel that isn't important. That is exactly how I started as a teenager, building a good wheel from two old ones (chromed steel rims too!) and rode that first wheel backward and forward to college for many, many trips with no problems.
As for 'special' tools required, you already have the freewheel/cassette off so only need a suitable spoke key. I still true all my wheels in the frame of the bike they are destined for, it isn't hard and to make sure the wheel is 'dished' correctly you simply flip the wheel round so the freewheel side is on the wrong side and the rim should still be central in the brakes. I use a bit of masking or electrical tape across the stays to check roundness and mark this to get the side to side trueness right, just take your time and try to get the trueness/roundness really good while the spoke tension is quite low. Good luck

EDIT: Well known fact, good handbuilt wheels are unbreakable..... I have tried!

I can vouch for his attempts at breaking bikes and wheels ! Blooming loon.

 

[voyager]

if you are almost capable and you are lucky some of the outer races knock out and if you are even luckier you might find another pair of outer races to fit - having built a few trikes from scratch I have found that many of the hub internal diameter have been the same ( almost the same as some steel tubes - why I have built my own Under Seat Steering pivots using them . good luck its not difficult rebuilding old wheels and even if I get shouted at by the purists I have used 2nd hand spokes BUT remember to keep the left and right side separate as there is a difference as the wheel is dished

regards emma