my project
- Thread starter GarryG
- Start date
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GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
Going to do a short video, to show it working on a chrome rim. Just uploading it to dropbox, then hopefully it will let me share it.
OP
OP
GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
Here's a short video showing my bad videoing and voice over skills, oh and it also shows how I use foil and water to clean the chrome rims. Ignore the mudguard bit, that was a test, looks like they will need fine grade wire wool.
sidevalve
Über Member
Just a point on the brakes. The old type pads did work in the wet, just not anywhere near as good as modern ones, we just got used to "drying the rims out" with a gentle squeeze of the levers occasionally, leaving big gaps to stop in [and slowing down a bit]. I also rides a classic m/cycle and you simply have to adapt your riding style to suit the machinery. Leave a greater distance to stop in and LOOK AND THINK AHEAD [perhaps not a bad idea anyway].
The idea of using foil is an old one but if any small bad sections remain there are various "chrome" paints available now which will do a fair job, [obviously not on the rim sides].
Alloy is best polished with {very very} fine wire wool and oil then a buffing wheel on a drill or grinder then coarse metal polish [polish wil do the whole job but it will take a LONG time].
If you haven't stripped the bearings [all of them] it would be a good plan, the old grease will be long gone by now and whatever is in there will really require replacing.
I would also strip the brakes and check the state of the return springs as I've seen some of these nearly rusted through, not usual, but worth a look.
Good luck with it.
The idea of using foil is an old one but if any small bad sections remain there are various "chrome" paints available now which will do a fair job, [obviously not on the rim sides].
Alloy is best polished with {very very} fine wire wool and oil then a buffing wheel on a drill or grinder then coarse metal polish [polish wil do the whole job but it will take a LONG time].
If you haven't stripped the bearings [all of them] it would be a good plan, the old grease will be long gone by now and whatever is in there will really require replacing.
I would also strip the brakes and check the state of the return springs as I've seen some of these nearly rusted through, not usual, but worth a look.
Good luck with it.
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GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
Thanks
OP
OP
GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
Well, the campus has to go as running out of room in the shed, trying to decide whether to sell the bike as spares/repair as it could do with two wheels as mr rust has become resident in the rear wheel, to the point of peeling, two new tyres due to cracking, and the frame cross bar has more then the normal amount of paint chips in.
The other option is for me to strip the bike for parts and sell everything individually on ebay, for instance three speed sturmey archer hub with cables and lever, brake levers, pedals, etc.
Just deciding which way to do it???
The other option is for me to strip the bike for parts and sell everything individually on ebay, for instance three speed sturmey archer hub with cables and lever, brake levers, pedals, etc.
Just deciding which way to do it???
Cycleops
Legendary Member
- Location
- Accra, Ghana
I should sell it as a "on going" restoration. Don't think you'd get as much for the parts.
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GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
Funny you should say that, as I got the bike out of the shed, armed with spanners and a spoke key, and then couldn't bring myself to do it, I noticed something I hadn't before which was that the chainset was one with the three herons cut out on it.
So consequently, I then found myself tidying the bike up more instead, the brakes and three speed are all working well, the rear rim has about 5-6 inches where the rust is worst, anyone know of anything I can treat it with to stop it continuing? I know a drop of oil works on the frame, but don't really want to use oil on the wheels (defeats the object of fixing the brakes).
Wondering whether to sell it on now, or to put two new tyres on as I can source a pair the same down to the pattern for £18 a pair.
All depends what I could get for it???
Here is a pic of where it's up to.
So consequently, I then found myself tidying the bike up more instead, the brakes and three speed are all working well, the rear rim has about 5-6 inches where the rust is worst, anyone know of anything I can treat it with to stop it continuing? I know a drop of oil works on the frame, but don't really want to use oil on the wheels (defeats the object of fixing the brakes).
Wondering whether to sell it on now, or to put two new tyres on as I can source a pair the same down to the pattern for £18 a pair.
All depends what I could get for it???
Here is a pic of where it's up to.
OP
OP
GarryG
Senior Member
- Location
- Warrington, Cheshire
yes, it gets top rust off quite easily, if there's pitting under it that remains, but for light top rust it's great. I found it looking online, when I first got this project.
gilespargiter
Veteran
- Location
- N Wales
Just a note on those brakes: used to be the rule of thumb that alloy rims need to rotate once before they work in the wet and steel twice. Just need to get used to it (as others have said). Also you can find a great improvement by fitting modern "V" brake blocks. These will skid the wheel or have you over the handle bars - can't do much better than that!
