Yellow Saddle
Guru
- Location
- Loch side.
Kerxactely.It is possible but how will you do the chopping and how will you clean the thread?
Kerxactely.It is possible but how will you do the chopping and how will you clean the thread?
I was thinking of winding the threads out past the nipple and snipping the ends off; if the nipple is already on the spoke then I don't have to worry about trying to wind it past a damaged thread. Or that's the theory anyway.It is possible but how will you do the chopping and how will you clean the thread?
You would still have to remove the nipple in order to assemble the wheel, so I can only wish you luck with that plan.
There's something about your avatar and your gumption that I like.Oh shut up, my logic is infallible I tell you! I don't like reality.
There's something about your avatar and your gumption that I like.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with paying school fees. Right now I'm on year 2 of learning something new and I've spent about 8k pounds on the learining so far. Yes, sometimes I have to bin material that was perfectly good before I made a bad cut or a poor coating or silly measurement. But with each one I get a bit better. Recently I compared my first object to my last and the improvement is massive and I don't feel so bad about the waste.
Complete your wheel as far as you can go. Then do it again with the right length of spoke. If the first wheel turns out OK with the spokes you think are too long, live with it or re-do it. It isn't a failed project, it is learning in progress.
If you want to do it again, knock on my door and I'll calculate the correct spoke lengths for you.
Spoke twist comes automatically with properly-tensioned wheels. There are two ways to eliminate them. The first is to always overshoot your nipple advance (just search for "overshoot" with me as the author and you'll find it all explained.Thanks Yellow, I appreciate it. I had to re-do the front wheel today - a couple of beginner mistakes; I didn't lubricate the threads and they were too slack anyway, plus I then found out about how you have to be careful not to twist the spokes. Just about sorted now. Looking at the rear wheel again, I think it probably will be okay; I tightened it a little more and it's starting to get that proper tightness without the spokes jutting out of the end.
Spoke twist comes automatically with properly-tensioned wheels. There are two ways to eliminate them. The first is to always overshoot your nipple advance (just search for "overshoot" with me as the author and you'll find it all explained.
The other way is to press down on the wheel after building. A bit complicated for Friday night. I'm having red wine, maybe I'll go through the explanation later.
There's something about your avatar and your gumption that I like.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with paying school fees. Right now I'm on year 2 of learning something new and I've spent about 8k pounds on the learining so far. Yes, sometimes I have to bin material that was perfectly good before I made a bad cut or a poor coating or silly measurement. But with each one I get a bit better. Recently I compared my first object to my last and the improvement is massive and I don't feel so bad about the waste.
Complete your wheel as far as you can go. Then do it again with the right length of spoke. If the first wheel turns out OK with the spokes you think are too long, live with it or re-do it. It isn't a failed project, it is learning in progress.
If you want to do it again, knock on my door and I'll calculate the correct spoke lengths for you.