My first go at building a front wheel. Problems..

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Brand X

Guest
I chose the rim, hub and spokes myself with the aid of this spoke length calculator, which allowed me to enter the model number of the parts and generate a correct spoke length for me, so hopefully it's correct:
http://www.prowheelbuilder.com/spokelengthcalculator
Spoke length calculated: 211.6
Spokes purchases: 212mm

Rim: Sun CR18 451 (36 holes).
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/rims-tape/sun-cr18-20in-451-abt-rim-silver-36-hole/

Hub: Shimano Deore HB-M590.
https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/hubs-front/36-shimano-deore-hbm590-front-hub-silver/


But when I try to fit the second set of spokes (that is, I have fitted 18 spokes - 9 each side - and so I have another 18 to fit), I can only get two of them in; by the third spoke it's as if the spokes are too short; the third spoke will not go in, it's too far a stretch.

This is the video guide I followed, and I can't see where I have made any error. I think I followed it precisely.
 

midlife

Guru
Did you select the correct crossover?

Shaun
 

Tail End Charlie

Well, write it down boy ......
Good on you for having a go. Wheel building is immensely satisfying, like a fine wine it should be savoured, except with a cup of coffee. I tend to start, then over the course of a few days, keep going back to it. Fettling time is never wasted.
Getting the radial trueness I find the most difficult, which is of course very important for the front.
 
OP
OP
Brand X

Brand X

Guest
Good on you for having a go. Wheel building is immensely satisfying, like a fine wine it should be savoured, except with a cup of coffee. I tend to start, then over the course of a few days, keep going back to it. Fettling time is never wasted.
Getting the radial trueness I find the most difficult, which is of course very important for the front.

I didn't even know about "radial trueness", but I do now! I can see why some people invest in a wheel truing stand.
 
Location
Loch side.
The best spoke calculator is one that does a pure mathematical calculation and leaves all the rounding down and thin-spoke compensation to the operator. DT-Swiss' online calculator does that to an extent in that it adjusts for Revolution and double-butted spokes.

Ideally, you want to end up with a wheel where the spokes do not protrude past the nipple's screwdriver slot, yet no threads show on the nipple's other side. This requires skill, experience and access to just the right spoke lengths.
 
OP
OP
Brand X

Brand X

Guest
My calculating is limited to how many fingers I have free at the time, but I cheated and used the product selector system on the Pro Wheelbuilder website.
 
OP
OP
Brand X

Brand X

Guest
I'm on to my second (rear) wheel but the spokes I bought are rather on the long side. I might just barely get away with it, but they could do with being a full 2mm shorter. Is it possible to chop a bit off the ends of the threads so that they don't protrude? I've test-tightened the spokes up to the bottoms of the spoke nipples (just slightly sticking beyond the slot of the nipple) and the spokes are going "twang" rather than "twing" when I tap them. I guess I have another 1mm to play with, but I should have bought 204mm spokes rather than 206mm; the calculator (which I probably got wrong but bear in mind it's a Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub, so a bit awkward) suggested a 208mm spoke, so I'm glad I went for 206, but 204mm would be right.
 
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