Mudguard issue

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OP
OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
Drilling the mudguard and bolting upwards is what the boss is meant for.
A bolt with either a low hex head or a button head with a 3mm allen socket takes least space, but you get most clearance by using 2 cable ties through 2 pairs of holes either side of the mudguard centre, like this :-
mudguard1_zps3cc7a1dc.jpg

(this is actually at the fork crown)
A single central cable tie uses space where the tyre is closest to the mudguard.

Andrew, yeah would have to drill holes like above or dead centre. SKS supply with a sliding Clip that bolts in place to the stay but don't mention having to drill. Going to tie wrap for now and when I drop wheel out fit cleaning, puncture change or something I will drill and secure like you say. Thank you for pics
 

mrandmrspoves

Middle aged bald git.
Location
Narfuk
I only just bought this one !![/QUOTE That's no reason not to buy another one!
 

RebornBumbler

Senior Member
Location
Barnstaple
One (or more) cable ties looped through the carrier mounts or between the seatstays, then another cable tie (or more) from your guard clip to that.
Gluing a bit of old type tread underneath the seatstay bridge stops any clatter.

I've got the same guards...
 
OP
OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
Stainless 5mm bolts fitted as the stays are all tapped M5. Seems On web people quoted M4 but the sks guards came with M5 same as the stays on bike. I thought the stand off was anodised but it's not its stainless too. Temporary fitted until they arrive then will fit with grease and coat in ACF50 before permanent fitting for winter and salt arriving
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
Stainless 5mm bolts fitted as the stays are all tapped M5. Seems On web people quoted M4
lots of people seem to think the bolts are M4. I think it's because they commonly use a 4 mm allen key
 
OP
OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
Whilst hiding in the garage this morning I realised I would need to remove the rear mudguard to get the wheel out. This would make changing an inner tube/puncture repair a real pain especially in the cold at side of the road in winter.
Wheedling an 8mm spanner for the bottom chain stay mount would be a particular tw**.
Anyone else come across this and devised an ingenious solution ?
 
OP
OP
rideswithmoobs
Location
North West
When I had a fixed with track-ends I simply mounted the mudguard with a bit more clearance at the back. Used to be standard practice.

Thanks Ian, I will have a play and see if I can gain enough clearance to get wheel out without taking guard off. I'm planning on a ride out early morning so no doubt I will get a puncture before I get chance to try it . I could nip out and try now but it's Honey Jack Daniels time !!!!!!
Thanks for help
 
Whilst hiding in the garage this morning I realised I would need to remove the rear mudguard to get the wheel out. This would make changing an inner tube/puncture repair a real pain especially in the cold at side of the road in winter.
Wheedling an 8mm spanner for the bottom chain stay mount would be a particular tw**.
Anyone else come across this and devised an ingenious solution ?
Use QR safety devices like you do at the front. The stays just pull out.
 
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