MTBs vs road bikes

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mustang1

Legendary Member
Location
London, UK
I've been a road-bike guy since 2006. Before that I had a 1992 Peugeot MTB. Anyway....

I fancied having a whack with MTB again, been no the agenda for a couple of years. I have three bikes right now but doubt I'll buy a 4th, the MTB. So I might just rent. Anyway, in my mtb 'reserach', I found out many things that I didn't know MTBs had these days and a few things I did know but still find interesting:

1. Tubeless tires are more common on MTB. In the road world there's still a shall we/shan't we approach.
2. MTB has option of (IDK what you call it) double chainrings with guards that stop the chain from coming off. I've also seen a deraileur-like device near the chainrings for keeping the chain on the ring. Not that you need that in road-bike world, but still...
3. Road bikes are lighter.
4. There's this thing call Shimano ghost (something) fitted to the rear derailluer. It has an on/off switch. When off, it's like it's not there, but when on, it increases the tension on the pivot of the rd to increase tension in the chain and thus stop chain slap against the chainstays. Nice trick.
5. I heard of telescopic seatposts, and even remotely controlled (from the cockpit) models. But I didn't realize the telescopic seatpost can also go back up and there are two varieties, either hydro or air, the air being faster at rising.
6. Disk brakes are mechanical or hydro. Fine, I knew that. But with the hyrdo, you need to change oil and there are two types, either DOT standard, or mineral oil. I dont know from experience so I'm only going by theory, but I believe MO is more suitable for my way of doingthings because it requires less maintenance and the liquid is non-corrosive. There are other advantages too such as no use-by date for the MO because water doesn't mix with it (it only mixes with DOT fluid)..
7. Auto lock-out suspension fork. When the system decides you're not on the rough stuff, it'll go into suspension mode from lock-out mode.

So as well as informing potential MTB'ers, it made me wonder why road bikes are more expensive than MTB and the only rason I can think of is that the market will bear the higher prices, maybe road bikes are considered more gentlemanly like than MTB. As an example, take a Giant MTB (cant recall name), it's about £5.5k. A Giant Propel Advanced SL is £8k. It's not the prices I'm thinking about, it's "what does the road bike have that's £2.5k dearer?'
 
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Mr Haematocrit

msg me on kik for android
My new MTB is pretty much the same money as my new Road Bike.. Both are Carbon Frames, 11 speed top of the range SRAM with hydraulic brakes and Carbon rims. From my experience if you buy similar specifications the prices are equally pretty similar
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
Don't worry just buy one and get mucky. They are good fun. Your road fitness will transfer well for climbing, but I am afraid, the technical descents on dodgy surfaces will scare your pants off. :laugh:

PS I am a roadie.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Cool write up, you've certainly done your research. I'll argue about the price bit, as a £1k road bike will be better equipped and higher up the food chain than a £1k mtb. Move outside of the big names and you'll find niche and boutique brands with incredible build costs. My main mtb frame costs about 2.5k retail. Both sides of the market are guilty of pricing to suit people's limits.

The clutch mech you describe is called Shimano shadow plus.
 

jazzkat

Fixed wheel fanatic.
I think the price is all to do with what the market will stand. We've had one of the toughest financial situations in generations but a sudden 'cycling is cool' zeitgeist and look how much bike prices have risen in recent years.

Having said that, when you consider what you get for your money (inexpensive transport, fitness and loads of fun) it's a pretty inexpensive hobby/pastime/lifestyle.
 

Motozulu

Über Member
Location
Rugeley, Staffs
Enjoyed that - also add to your new found knowledge of all things MTB that the front derailleur thingy for keeping the chain on :smile: is being challenged by a new single ring up front, the Raceface narrow/wide, which meshes with the chain better thus stopping the chain flying off on rough stuff. Combined with a Shimano Zee short cage rear clutched derailleur, you get a silent running, much lighter way to run a 1x10 gear set up.

I did it 2 months ago, ditched the granny and big ring (wasn't using em) and the left hand shifter off the bars. Love the set up.

I am not a roadie and probably will never be. :tongue:
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
I've been a road-bike guy since 2006. Before that I had a 1992 Peugeot MTB. Anyway....

I fancied having a whack with MTB again, been no the agenda for a couple of years. I have three bikes right now but doubt I'll buy a 4th, the MTB. So I might just rent. Anyway, in my mtb 'reserach', I found out many things that I didn't know MTBs had these days and a few things I did know but still find interesting:

1. Tubeless tires are more common on MTB. In the road world there's still a shall we/shan't we approach.
2. MTB has option of (IDK what you call it) double chainrings with guards that stop the chain from coming off. I've also seen a deraileur-like device near the chainrings for keeping the chain on the ring. Not that you need that in road-bike world, but still...
3. Road bikes are lighter.
4. There's this thing call Shimano ghost (something) fitted to the rear derailluer. It has an on/off switch. When off, it's like it's not there, but when on, it increases the tension on the pivot of the rd to increase tension in the chain and thus stop chain slap against the chainstays. Nice trick.
5. I heard of telescopic seatposts, and even remotely controlled (from the cockpit) models. But I didn't realize the telescopic seatpost can also go back up and there are two varieties, either hydro or air, the air being faster at rising.
6. Disk brakes are mechanical or hydro. Fine, I knew that. But with the hyrdo, you need to change oil and there are two types, either DOT standard, or mineral oil. I dont know from experience so I'm only going by theory, but I believe MO is more suitable for my way of doingthings because it requires less maintenance and the liquid is non-corrosive. There are other advantages too such as no use-by date for the MO because water doesn't mix with it (it only mixes with DOT fluid)..
7. Auto lock-out suspension fork. When the system decides you're not on the rough stuff, it'll go into suspension mode from lock-out mode.

So as well as informing potential MTB'ers, it made me wonder why road bikes are more expensive than MTB and the only rason I can think of is that the market will bear the higher prices, maybe road bikes are considered more gentlemanly like than MTB. As an example, take a Giant MTB (cant recall name), it's about £5.5k. A Giant Propel Advanced SL is £8k. It's not the prices I'm thinking about, it's "what does the road bike have that's £2.5k dearer?'

My opinion for what it's worth.

Your proclaimed experience and bike history suggests that you will never need even half of the MTB 'innovations' you mention. I ride in a manner that would suggest I could benefit from the same 'innovations' but I don't have them as personally I believe they are largely gimmicks..... KISS! I don't regret not having these 'innovations'.

Road bikes are lighter for many obvious reasons.

Disc brakes should be Shimano, hydraulic and IME no need to worry about changing the fluid.

Price wise I think the real VFM action in road bikes and MTBs takes place around the £600-£1,500 mark. Pay much less than the bottom end of that and you will get a fairly entry level bike and risk getting a glorified BSO in some cases (but not always!). Pay much more than that and you are almost certainly buying a bike that far exceeds your requirements and ability and in some cases you are paying largely for the name and image (which is fine if you have the disposable, but don't think it is going to make you a super cyclist or get you treated like a god everywhere you go!).

DON'T get sucked in by the hype. You don't HAVE to have the whistles and bells. For just above or below £1k you should be able to find a great bike that suits you. After that the biggest difference to your cycling performance/experience is your legs and how you care for your bike. A £5k bike can be a dog if it is set up and maintained badly!

The SINGLE most important thing is to choose a bike you will enjoy and use it :thumbsup:
 

02GF74

Über Member
3. Road bikes are lighter.

Is that a fact?

My 2000 Bianchi road bike - carbon forks, top of the range aluminium frame, ultegra weighs in at 8.59 kg.

My 2010 Cannondale Fash - carbon frame, Carbon lefty fork, SRAM X0 weighs in at 8.37 kg.

Ok, the carbon frame makes a difference as indeed to 10 years of innovation and progress so it is not a lfair comparison,

But generally a mountain bike will be heavier as the frame needs to be more beefy, will have suspension forks and have fatter tyres whcih aladd to the weight.

re: hydraulic brakes, I have not come acoss this replacing th fluid evey year - I certainly don't and don't believe the brakes suffer for it.
 
OP
OP
mustang1

mustang1

Legendary Member
Location
London, UK
My opinion for what it's worth.

Your proclaimed experience and bike history suggests that you will never need even half of the MTB 'innovations' you mention. I ride in a manner that would suggest I could benefit from the same 'innovations' but I don't have them as personally I believe they are largely gimmicks..... KISS! I don't regret not having these 'innovations'.

Road bikes are lighter for many obvious reasons.

Disc brakes should be Shimano, hydraulic and IME no need to worry about changing the fluid.

Price wise I think the real VFM action in road bikes and MTBs takes place around the £600-£1,500 mark. Pay much less than the bottom end of that and you will get a fairly entry level bike and risk getting a glorified BSO in some cases (but not always!). Pay much more than that and you are almost certainly buying a bike that far exceeds your requirements and ability and in some cases you are paying largely for the name and image (which is fine if you have the disposable, but don't think it is going to make you a super cyclist or get you treated like a god everywhere you go!).

DON'T get sucked in by the hype. You don't HAVE to have the whistles and bells. For just above or below £1k you should be able to find a great bike that suits you. After that the biggest difference to your cycling performance/experience is your legs and how you care for your bike. A £5k bike can be a dog if it is set up and maintained badly!

The SINGLE most important thing is to choose a bike you will enjoy and use it :thumbsup:

Thanks, yes you are right on many counts and I agree. In fact *if* I bought an MTB, I was eyeing up a 2013 Giant Talon 2 which is listed at £850. Comes with Rockshox Something forks, Shimano Something brakes, and I dont beleive it has that ghost shifter thingie.
 
OP
OP
mustang1

mustang1

Legendary Member
Location
London, UK
Is that a fact?

My 2000 Bianchi road bike - carbon forks, top of the range aluminium frame, ultegra weighs in at 8.59 kg.

My 2010 Cannondale Fash - carbon frame, Carbon lefty fork, SRAM X0 weighs in at 8.37 kg.

Ok, the carbon frame makes a difference as indeed to 10 years of innovation and progress so it is not a lfair comparison,

But generally a mountain bike will be heavier as the frame needs to be more beefy, will have suspension forks and have fatter tyres whcih aladd to the weight.

re: hydraulic brakes, I have not come acoss this replacing th fluid evey year - I certainly don't and don't believe the brakes suffer for it.

It is a fact! :smile: But yes I understand your point also.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Is that a fact?

My 2000 Bianchi road bike - carbon forks, top of the range aluminium frame, ultegra weighs in at 8.59 kg.

My 2010 Cannondale Fash - carbon frame, Carbon lefty fork, SRAM X0 weighs in at 8.37 kg.

Ok, the carbon frame makes a difference as indeed to 10 years of innovation and progress so it is not a lfair comparison,

But generally a mountain bike will be heavier as the frame needs to be more beefy, will have suspension forks and have fatter tyres whcih aladd to the weight.

re: hydraulic brakes, I have not come acoss this replacing th fluid evey year - I certainly don't and don't believe the brakes suffer for it.
Hope brakes run on Dot 5 brake fluid. Over time it absorbs water and as a result heats up more easily, leading to a loss in performance. They need bleeding more often, and a complete fluid flush every so often brings that performance back up to its normal level.

The mineral oil in Shimano brakes doesn't absorb water, so only needs bleeding if air enters the system.
 

Adam Parker

Regular
Formula RX aren't too bad, although they are pretty old now, I wouldn't be too eager to replace them if they came fitted to a new bike, however if i were to build my own bike, I would definitely go with Shimano SLX XT XTR maybe Saint. Adam
 

fossyant

Ride It Like You Stole It!
Location
South Manchester
My 20 year old rigid MTB suits my off road down hill skills and desires ( ie I will slow down as I am a roadie and a chicken) but it's bloody great going uphill and XC. Road downhill then I am better. Those scary trees and rocks that jump out.

I am with Skolly on MTB kit, get something that's mid range and works and won't rob you blind when you break it. Road kit, then I've gone top end in the past and still have it. MTBs take massive abuse so I would say XT level max or x9/X0 in SRAM
 
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