Roadie looking to try offroadying

[mattyg]

Hi, I’m a fairly dyed in the wool road cyclist, but recently been toying with the idea of a bit of off road so that I can spend more time with my nearest and dearest who are a bit frightened of cycling on roads. I know pretty well how to find a road frame that will fit me, but I’m utterly in the dark on how I can translate that information to MTB geometry. Any pointers? I have a short torso for my 176cm height and typically ride a bike with a reach of 375mm (or 580mm to the hoods). Would a similar reach (to the hoods) be about right on a MTB?

 

[fossyant]

Doesn't really translate well to modern MTBs. You really need to sit on a few as some frames can be bigger. You ideally need enough seatpost so you could fit a dropper post if you wanted, I,e quite alot of seatpost showing. Droppers are ideal for confidence boost and getting the weight back - I say this as a roadie.

 

[raleighnut]

What kind of 'off-road' are we talking. Trails, Cross country, Downhill all require different bikes for instance Trails can be tackled by a 'Gravel' bike but no good on something more 'Gnarly'

 

[mattyg]

What kind of 'off-road' are we talking. Trails, Cross country, Downhill all require different bikes for instance Trails can be tackled by a 'Gravel' bike but no good on something more 'Gnarly'

Cross country primarily. Could use the bike for a bit of off road bike packing Too. Downhill doesn’t interest me, and trails aren’t something I will ever do regularly enough to justify a bike designed with that n mind. I’m really thinking of a tractor or a country clod hopper that will mostly be ridden on farm tracks. oh And hard tail. I Don’t think that makes too much difference in terms of reach and stack, but I’m still a roadie, and a fixed rear triangle is sacrosanct (don’t ask me for logic here, it’s personal dogma)

 

[mattyg]

Doesn't really translate well to modern MTBs. You really need to sit on a few as some frames can be bigger. You ideally need enough seatpost so you could fit a dropper post if you wanted, I,e quite alot of seatpost showing. Droppers are ideal for confidence boost and getting the weight back - I say this as a roadie.

Thanks. I hadn’t considered a dropper post, it’s never been on my radar, but that seems like sensible advic, as a just in case.

 

[Jody]

I have a short torso for my 176cm height and typically ride a bike with a reach of 375mm (or 580mm to the hoods).

I'd be picking a medium at 5'8 with a short torso

Positioning on a MTB is very individual and adjustable lots of ways with stem length, bar width/rise/sweep etc

Doesn't sound like you'll be riding anything too serious so an entry level hardtail hardtail will probably suit best. Bide your time and you will find a bargain.

 

[Grant Fondo]

I'd be tempted to go gravel @mattyg then you know your set-up and have the drop-bar/clipped in skills as required. I was a total roadie until 2019 but amazing where you can get to on a gravel bike.
Good luck

 

[Grant Fondo]

By way of an example, Newborough Forest Anglesey ... right on the limit with 32c slicks but made it there and back, eezy peezy with 38c knobblies.

 

[mattyg]

What kind of 'off-road' are we talking. Trails, Cross country, Downhill all require different bikes for instance Trails can be tackled by a 'Gravel' bike but no good on something more 'Gnarly'

I should also have said, at this time of year, we’re talking about fairly thick mud now - almost swampy in places, and a gravel bike isn’t really enough.

I'd be tempted to go gravel @mattyg then you know your set-up and have the drop-bar/clipped in skills as required. I was a total roadie until 2019 but amazing where you can get to on a gravel bike.
Good luck

i was / have been tempted by gravel. the farm tracks I run and occasional ride are ok in the summer, but now it’s turning boggy, it doesn’t really work for me and I’d like to do it more, plus spend time riding with my wife and kids. I’m sure if I was a more experienced and confident graveller, those tracks would be manageable, but on the one or 2 occasions I’ve take my sons bike out in the soggy season, I’ve come home early and muddy from stacking it in the big ruts where the tractors turn and the water pools. I’m not talking about made farm tracks, I’m talking about the tracks made by tractors at the fields edge. Some are almost like a cinder path, but most are not! just don’t have enough confidence and control on a drop bar for that. I’m not a total wuss, I’m happy descending a mountain pass at 70-80 kph, but slow me down and put obstacles in my way and it’s a diferment story and requires a different bike. Also, n+1 innit?

 

[mattyg]

By way of an example, Newborough Forest Anglesey ... right on the limit with 32c slicks but made it there and back, eezy peezy with 38c knobblies.

nice.

 

[Grant Fondo]

I should also have said, at this time of year, we’re talking about fairly thick mud now - almost swampy in places, and a gravel bike isn’t really enough.


i was / have been tempted by gravel. the farm tracks I run and occasional ride are ok in the summer, but now it’s turning boggy, it doesn’t really work for me and I’d like to do it more, plus spend time riding with my wife and kids. I’m sure if I was a more experienced and confident graveller, those tracks would be manageable, but on the one or 2 occasions I’ve take my sons bike out in the soggy season, I’ve come home early and muddy from stacking it in the big ruts where the tractors turn and the water pools. I’m not talking about made farm tracks, I’m talking about the tracks made by tractors at the fields edge. Some are almost like a cinder path, but most are not! just don’t have enough confidence and control on a drop bar for that. I’m not a total wuss, I’m happy descending a mountain pass at 70-80 kph, but slow me down and put obstacles in my way and it’s a diferment story and requires a different bike. Also, n+1 innit?

Ok, got you, proper winter mud plugging. Tough one on sizing, my son got a Kona 29er hardtail this summer in large, huge bike and he is 6ft 2ins, a medium might have done it. Such a variety of MTB frame configurations easy to get it wrong.

 

[DRM]

Personally I think the best thing is go to some shops and sit on some MTB’s see what’s comfy, check the top tube clearance so the Crown Jewels don’t get an accidental bang, also try riding it stood up, as that’ll be how you end up riding in the rough stuff, for reach etc, like a road bike though, you can tweak the stem length and fit different bars to suit your shoulder reach & width, also gearing, 1x might be a bit gappy if your used to road gearing, and of course tyres can be swapped for more or less knobbly ones to suit your locality

 

[wafter]

I have a broadly similar background and bought a Ragley Big Wig hardtail last year for similar reasons to you.

Won't repeat what's in the thread, however broad-strokes be aware that if you plan to ride in wet mud the bike will get plastered, you will get plastered, when you get home your house, loved ones and all that you hold dear will be plastered...

As for geometry be aware that the current trend is towards "long, low and slack" - with significant reach pushing the rider forward - which as a similarly T-rex-proportioned rider I didn't really like the sound of. The Ragley is a bit shorter than others but still felt alien at first; especially thanks to the enormous bar width. That said it does feel incredibly stable / capable on rough stuff if you're used to twitchy geometry and slick, skinny tyres.

Also I'm not sure that just for "off road" / cross-country you need suspension, and had things been different (I got the Ragley at a good price) I might have been inclined to have gone with something far more at the off-road-centric end of gravel - i.e. fat knobbly tyres and slack geometry but with a rigid fork and drops / more road-esque groupset.. as I'm not sure the limited use the suspension is on the terrain I cover warrants its additional cost, complexity and mass. If it's more gravel-centric you might also be able to fit some half-decent mudguards; which really doesn't seem to be a thing on MTBs.

The Genesis Vagabond springs to mind although like all new bikes they're not cheap.. if the format piques your interest it may be worth looking at used; I think the Longitude is a similar bike with straight bars..

All that said, that's a pretty specialised gravel bike format (and this niche seems to be holding its value well) while the used market's awash with cheap, serviceable hard tails..

 

[vickster]

A CX bike might be worth a look too if wanting drops and no bouncy forks

 

[cougie uk]

Hi, I’m a fairly dyed in the wool road cyclist, but recently been toying with the idea of a bit of off road so that I can spend more time with my nearest and dearest who are a bit frightened of cycling on roads. I know pretty well how to find a road frame that will fit me, but I’m utterly in the dark on how I can translate that information to MTB geometry. Any pointers? I have a short torso for my 176cm height and typically ride a bike with a reach of 375mm (or 580mm to the hoods). Would a similar reach (to the hoods) be about right on a MTB?

Don't forget that you need more stand over clearance with your frame off road. Otherwise dismounts can be painful.
Don't do like my pal did who bought a mahoosive MTB because he wanted his top tube in the same place as his road bike. He didn't keep that for long.