M25 Round About: A circumnavigation of 'that' London

[IaninSheffield]

Finally getting round to posting some two weeks after the tour. Better late than never?

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Prologue

Sadly a longer tour would once more remain beyond my reach this summer and with the season's poor weather nibbling away at my enthusiasm, I was casting around for something a little … different. It would have to be shorter, but that might also mean the budget from a longer trip could be deployed more extravagantly over the briefer time period. Perhaps the treat of a credit card tour, rather than camping, despite the pleasure and simplicity that the latter offers? I've heard that hotels such as Premier Inn and Travelodge are happy to accommodate cyclists so maybe I'll give them a try.

As for location, well I have no idea how the notion came to me but I fancied doing a lap of the M25 London Orbital. Not of course on the roadway itself; that's likely to have you clapped in irons faster than you can holler ‘Just Stop Oil’, but using the motorway as a thread to loosely follow. The motorway itself traces a path of some 140 miles so I figured that wriggling back and forth along its path would provide three leisurely cycling days, four when you add in getting there and back by train from up here in the northern wastes. I was curious to find out what the roads and cycling would be like so close to the capital, what a more luxurious approach to accommodation would offer, and whether alternatives to the pleasure I get from pootling along quiet lanes with grass up the middle are to be found.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 1, Potters Bar - Staines,
30th July, 43 miles

Doncaster station​

Getting to the start of any ride can often be a bit of an adventure; today would be no exception. Step 1 - cycle from home to Doncaster; step 2 - take a train to Stevenage; step 3 - a second train from Stevenage to Potters Bar; and step 4 - begin cycling. Plenty of opportunities for things to go awry, but I had the luxury of time. Having reserved a seat and bike space on a train from Doncaster to Stevenage at the sensible time of 10.25, and with only 14 miles to cycle to the station, I could take my time over breakfast and final preparations. Rolling the bike out the garage I was blessed with sunshine poking its nose through hazy skies - not too hot, not too cool, coupled with a gentle breeze for added comfort.

Doncaster 1st class lounge​

I gave myself a couple of hours to start the journey. When catching a train I always try to include a puncture buffer and if it's not needed, well I get to enjoy a relaxed coffee while waiting for my train. With neither punctures nor inclement weather to hinder progress I arrived with plenty of time to spare and could make the most of the First Class lounge. I'd treated myself to a First Class ticket because … “I'm worth it”. What the lounge at Doncaster lacked in grandeur it made up for in peace and an adequate supply of coffee, cookies and crisps to snack on. Suitably refreshed and relaxed, I headed out to natter with the LNER platform staff while the train arrived. They were cheerful, helpful and efficient. They unlocked the bike locker in the carriage and brought on my bags while I wrangled the bike into the tight little closet. No drama, just good service. In my comfortable seat in first class where the temperature was set perfectly, unlike Cross Country where it's all too often frigid as an arctic winter. During the hour and a half to Stevenage the train team brought refreshments aplenty, all included in the ticket price. Advance fares often present a good deal in first class and if your budget will stretch that far, I think the package is worth it.

Approaching Stevenage I temporarily shifted the lightweight carbon bike now sitting alongside my tourer, and with the assistance of a fellow bike traveller whose steed occupied the adjacent closet, wrestled my bike from the hangar and was ready in plenty of time as the train approached the platform. The ongoing connection was made and brought me to Potters Bar with most of the afternoon still to play with.

No longer protected by onboard temperature control, and a good few miles further south, the sun now asserted its authority. I retaliated with sun cream on exposed areas then got wheels rolling to supplement it with the modest breeze that forward progress generates. Soon free from the confines of the town I found myself riding parallel to the A1 ploughing a northern furrow. The Garmin was fully behaving itself, but it definitely felt uncomfortable heading back whence I'd come. At the edge of Hatfield my route cut across country and picked up the Alban Way, a reclaimed former railway line now repurposed and repaved as a Greenway. The tree lined path provided welcome shade from the oppressive heat as it whisked me effortlessly road-feee through the urban fringes of St Albans without fuss. It really was a pleasant and peaceful few miles sharing space with the occasional dog walker or pushchair pusher.

Smallford Station, Alban Way​

With over a dozen miles completed I had yet to hear, let alone see the thread I was following around our capital. But after a few quiet back lanes to Kings Langley, I was deposited briefly onto the Grand Union Canal towpath and crossed under the M25 for the first time. Somehow I'd expected my first crossing to be above rather than below the motorway but no matter, I was now on the inside of the capital's orbital.

Locks near Rickmansworth​

Onwards to Rickmansworth some of the route was on B roads and some on back lanes but perhaps unsurprisingly neither was as quiet as similar roads might be further away from the capital. They weren't exactly busy, but the vehicle frequency was notably higher. What was a more pleasant surprise was how green, quiet and rural the adjacent landscape was. Did I have it in my head that the London conurbation and its urban sprawl pressed hard against the inside surface of the M25 which constrained it from further expansion? If I held that notion, I was soon disavowed of it. There was pastureland, heathland and woodland, each contributing to the sense I was far, far from the madding crowd.

Cycle.travel, my route planner of choice, traversed Rickmansworth for me along quiet suburban residential roads, then a very narrow back lane where even a bike and car struggled to pass, until finally emerging into Hillingdon and Uxbridge where Lidl’s bakery provided me with sustenance to tide me over to my evening meal. It was now time to mix it with the evening rush on mainly busy suburban roads at a busy time of day. Decidedly less joyful but cycle.travel thankfully once more kept me away from the worst of it.

For someone who mostly only sees aircraft as they leave contrails five miles above my house, cycling a mile or two on the cycle paths alongside Heathrow's perimeter road was an interesting treat. At one point incoming flights seemed to pass no more than few feet above my head, whilst a little further around, plane after plane trundled out onto the other runway, spun up the engines before gunning down the runway and up into the air. As I left the airfield and cycled into the nearby village, my ears were still being assaulted by the whine of jet engines and my nose by the stench of aviation fuel. What must it be like to live here? I guess residents become accustomed or desensitised?

The final handful of miles to Staines passed uneventfully and I was soon out of the heat in the air conditioned lobby of the Premier Inn. Although on the first floor - the bike fitted in the lift with a little wiggle room to spare - none of the staff so much as batted an eyelid at my bike as I waited to be booked in. The member of staff on reception apologised that there was some problem with the room into which I'd been booked and would I mind an ‘accessible’ room. Knowing it would doubtless be more commodious, and if I wouldn't be excluding someone who might need it more than me, I was happy to accept. It was indeed more roomy; vast in fact. I've slept in rooms smaller than the bathroom was in this one. But what is given in one hand is taken away in the other and the earliest I could eat in the restaurant (I'd booked the ‘Meal Deal’ which included evening meal and breakfast) was 19:45, much later than I'd normally eat. I was now even more grateful for the late Lidl lunch I'd had earlier.

Enough room for me ... and the peleton!​

As I made my way down to the restaurant I held no expectations of haute cuisine; on that front I was not disappointed! For me food from chain outlets, whether pubs, restaurants or hotels, holds little allure. It's rarely surprising, rarely tasty, but does the job of replacing lost calories so from the menu tonight (the Meal Deal allows two courses) I picked the most calorific main and dessert - beef and ale pie, followed by ice cream sundae. Oh dear! The pie was less tasty than the cheapest pie on the local supermarket food counter, and the ‘vanilla’ ice cream sundae tasted of nothing. Nothing at all. But at least I felt full. Almost. Here's hoping tomorrow's ‘All You Can Eat’ breakfast goes some way to making up.

 

[blackrat]

Nice! Waiting for more.

 

[All uphill]

What a great idea!

I love trips that avoid the obvious, and this is anything but obvious.

 

[lazybloke]

Love it, @IaninSheffield.
Looking forward to hearing more, especially your route near J9, which is where I live. Some tricky decisions on how to get out this way, and whether you approach on the inside or outside of the motorway.
A glance at the map shows that despite all the urban sprawl there's plenty of greenery from hillsides and fields to parks and rivers; and you can wind your way through tiny hamlets that feel surprisingly remote. The difficulty is connecting these decent lanes whilst avoiding the busier roads. Cycle.Travel is a great routing tool.

 

[Sharky]

Often wondered about a route like you are planning. Living just south of Gravesend, one of my commutes took me parallel to the M25 to Whyteleafe in Surrey. Taking really country/back roads, but very hilly as it went up and down the North Downs.

How are you planning to cross the Thames. The Gravesend ferry would have been ideal, but is now closed.

Good luck with the ride.

 

[ianrauk]

I've done this a few years back. Did it over two days. There's some lovely riding on the whole route so enjoy.
I'm just off J4 so wave as you go by.

[Edit]
In fact, it was in the January 2020, Covid year.
We did it clockwise.

 

[T4tomo]

Smallford Station, Alban Way​

With over a dozen miles completed I had yet to hear, let alone see the thread I was following around our capital. But after a few quiet back lanes to Kings Langley, I was deposited briefly onto the Grand Union Canal towpath and crossed under the M25 for the first time

You could have called in for a cup of tea, passing yorkshire -folk always welcome

 

[IaninSheffield]

How are you planning to cross the Thames. The Gravesend ferry would have been ideal, but is now closed.

Crossing the Thames to the east was one of the interesting features of the ride. Keep an eye out for Day 3

 

[Ming the Merciless]

Did a circuit as an audax before the pandemic using the Gravesend ferry on the eastern side. As the OP says you can ride a lot of rural country in close proximity to London.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 2, Staines - Sevenoaks,
31st July, 51 miles
Beaten by the Surrey Hills. That's not a euphemism, just a condensed description of today's travails.

Although I had a rather fitful night's sleep, it certainly wasn't down to the comfort of the bed (excellent) nor that I was disturbed by a noisy environment (barely heard another soul). Well done on sound insulation Premier Inn; I could see but not hear a murmur from the planes landing just a couple of miles away.

“The early bird…” as they say which, in my case, meant getting down to the restaurant by seven, thereby allowing unhindered access to the breakfast buffet. With a day's cycling scheduled to include plenty of climbing, fueling up seemed like a smart move. The cooked food was no better than last night's but across the range of hot and cold there was plenty of choice and I left the buffet feeling ready for the day ahead.

Chertsey Bridge​

Within a few hundred yards of leaving the hotel I was alongside the Thames following the riverside path. It was sunny but not too hot, I was well-fuelled and well-watered, and I was in my happy place, cycling by a waterway. Despite occasional tree roots making for bumpy progress, the path as far as Chertsey is mostly paved and in good condition, allowing unfettered enjoyment of the nautical surroundings. Narrowboats, wide beam cruisers and small pleasure craft passed by or were moored alongside, sometimes outside properties. I couldn't help feeling that some of those properties with unimpeded river views looked precariously proximal to river level to be at risk from flooding. Could I live in a stunning location whilst simultaneously living with a flood risk? I guess if you can afford to buy a Thames-side property, you can afford to have it sorted after flooding.

Weybridge ferry​

After briefly leaving the Thames at Chertsey I was surprised but delighted to return to it at the ferry crossing at Weybridge. During planning the route I never noticed a ferry crossing was involved. It's pedestrians and bikes only, the single journey was £4.40 and I enjoyed the whole minute or two it took. Maybe it's the quirkiness of such things in more modern times, or a bit of chat with the ferryman, but the pleasure I got far outweighed the minimal cost. The next section was, however, less than pleasurable along a busy, narrow B365 into Cobham, then under the M25 and back to the more rural lands beyond. One short but rewarding section struck off road and through Great Bookham Common where folks were out running, walking their dogs and generally making the most of the footpaths which criss-cross the heath.

St Nichols Church, Bookham​

A long, slow climb out of Bookham took me onto quiet, narrow back lanes where welcome shade was regularly to be had. From this elevated position the inevitable next section involved dropping back into the valley where I knew what was to follow. When planning the route I spotted that I'd be passing close to the famous Box Hill, the location of many a hill climb and also one of the contributors to ‘100 Greatest Cycling Climbs’; I couldn't pass up that opportunity. It's not an especially demanding climb - one and half miles long, 600 feet of ascent at an average gradient of 5% - but with a partially loaded tourer I was glad to see the National Trust cafe near the summit. I must confess to taking advantage of their freely available outdoor water fountain to replenish my bidons, yet not visiting their servery. I'd spotted a cycle shop/repair shop with a cafe just a couple of miles further on in the village of Box Hill. I figured my coin would be better deployed supporting the local cycle industry. The coffee and cake at ‘Destination Bike Box Hill’ was excellent, so if you're in the area it's well worth dropping by whether you have a repair that needs doing or not.

View from Box Hill​

Next it was back into the valley, skirting Reigate, then mixing it briefly with the traffic in the centre of Redhill. To be fair, there were joint use cycle paths, just that they took a while to negotiate when transiting complex junctions. From here I finally got to cross over the M25 to return to an inside track which brought me rudely into more intimate contact with the Surrey Hills as they once again demanded I climb to earn my passage. White Hill, Winders Hill, Tandridge Hill and finally Botley Hill all took their toll, sometimes up and around hairpin bends and occasionally off road on gravel tracks. A mountain, cyclo-cross or gravel bike would have had no issues but my road/touring tyres were ill-suited to the task … as was this ageing randonneur! I have to confess to a couple of hundred yards of walking, an ignominy I'd never have suffered in better times.

Gravelly Hill Tower​

One might hope for the reward of less demanding terrain once on the ridge, but the next few miles along it continued to ask questions of my fitness as it undulated relentlessly. At least I was rewarded with a long, slow descent crossing once more back outside the M25, dropping into the charming Chipstead and finally through into Sevenoaks where another Premier Inn held my booking.

Once again my bike presented no problem during check in and the lifts were sized generously enough for me to take it up to my room. Confronted with the same menu as last night, I needed no encouragement to make a fresh choice and this time chose more wisely. The ‘smothered’ chicken breast, salad, garlic bread, chips and slaw were actually quite tasty, if not especially healthy, and they satisfied my need for calories. The cheesecake and vanilla ice cream, however, suffered from the same lack of taste as last night. How hard can it be to procure ice cream with flavour?! I'm with Travelodge tomorrow; let's see whether they can do any better.

Despite my struggles with the terrain today, the ride spent much more time in the company of rural landscapes and was all the better for it. The roads were quieter, were accompanied by pasture and arable farmland or woodland and heath, and were often shaded from the intense attention of the sun. Oh and did I mention I successfully climbed Box Hill? And enjoyed an unexpected ferry ride?

 

[blackrat]

"Beaten by the Surrey Hills"
But you weren't. so well done again. One aspect of my forthcoming LeJog jaunt that daunts, is the whole issue with navigation. My routes have a plethora of turns into unpronounceable named lanes and veering past pubs that may have long ago been turned into bijou housing (RWGPS which uses Google is about two years behind on their sky pics) and roundabouts so mysterious that even a cat wouldn't dare enter, so I have no doubt that missing a strategic turn I'm going to end up on a fast unforgiving back lane and .... well, 'get-it'.

 

[lazybloke]

Lovely write-up.
A good chunk of your ride today was literally on my doorstep, but I had no idea about the ferry. Will have to investigate...

 

[IaninSheffield]

"Beaten by the Surrey Hills"
But you weren't. so well done again. One aspect of my forthcoming LeJog jaunt that daunts, is the whole issue with navigation. My routes have a plethora of turns into unpronounceable named lanes and veering past pubs that may have long ago been turned into bijou housing (RWGPS which uses Google is about two years behind on their sky pics) and roundabouts so mysterious that even a cat wouldn't dare enter, so I have no doubt that missing a strategic turn I'm going to end up on a fast unforgiving back lane and .... well, 'get-it'.

Thank you. I guess it's just taking a while for me to settle into old age and infirmity

"... I'm going to end up on a fast unforgiving back lane ..."

Or maybe onto an unanticipated quiet, leafy lane heading downhill to a bucolic pub with a welcoming landlord serving free refreshments to all cyclists

 

[IaninSheffield]

Day 3, Sevenoaks - Cheshunt
1st August, 51 miles

A good night's sleep followed by another hearty breakfast, but on this occasion with a close eye on the weather forecast. Thunderstorms have been a threat for today in forecasts since last weekend, but when following hot periods like the one we've just had, they're invariably difficult to tie down to a location. Suffice it to say outbursts of torrential rain will be plaguing the areas through which I'm travelling so I may find myself regularly seeking shelter. We shall see.

Quickly free from the shackles of Sevenoaks I was soon on quiet lanes heading up (down?) the Darent valley northwards. The route I had chosen stuck to the valley sides, seeing no need to be subservient to contour lines and consequently rolling up and down. To be fair, that just added to the charm since these little hills posed nothing like the same degree of challenge that the Surrey Hills did yesterday. Eyensford, with its ford and river crossing, and general ambience impressed. Although folks relaxed on the river banks, the village didn't appear to be a tourist destination; simply a place to relax a while or enjoy family fun.

It was around a dozen miles from Sevenoaks before I once again had to mix it with traffic on busier roads as I approached the Thames once more, this time presenting a more challenging obstacle than when the quaint little passenger ferry at Weybridge made short work wafting me across. Neither the Dartford Tunnel nor Queen Elizabeth Bridge offered options for cyclists, but preliminary research provided me with an ace up my non-existent sleeve. At both north and south control points for the crossing there's a phone point where cyclists can ring through to the control room and request a shuttle. This comes in the form of a van or cycle carrier equipped vehicle with a driver who'll take you from one control point to the other … for free! This service operates year round during specific time slots each day - more details on the gov.uk website.

Kent point contact point for the Dartford Crossing
​

At the southerly ‘Kent Point', less than five minutes after I rang through, a driver arrived and I loaded my bike into the back of a huge panel van strapping it securely with the provided bungees. Less than ten minutes later I was unloading it at ‘Essex Point’ on the north bank. The journey time of course depends on traffic but I spent the time chatting to the driver about the service, especially compared with other crossing options such as the Woolwich or Gravesend ferries, neither of which would have served my needs on this trip.

The network of cycle paths alongside the main roads which skirt the vast Lakeside complex were mostly welcome, however, roundabout approach road crossings required more than a little care and careful observation, not least an inordinate amount of patience with the volume and frequency of traffic.
South Ockenden may appear to have little to boast about in terms of architecture, but it did have a Lidl which provided me with lunch and a small park where I could enjoy it in the shade. Once beyond suburban areas, even the narrowest of rural roads down which I rode sported frequent car traffic whose drivers struggled to pass one another due to the road dimensions. So why so much traffic? Are these rat runs?

After passing through Cranham I picked up the Paine's Brook cycle path which took me through the residential area of Harold Hill and back into the countryside and proper lanes. It's not a great path but nevertheless modestly contributes to the National Cycle network in the form of route 136. The local streets provide equally quiet alternatives but a less bumpy surface. It seems that sometimes cycle paths are constructed, a box is ticked on some urban development plan, but future maintenance is never included in the accounting.

Striking tree in Theydon Bois​

I passed through Theydon Bois when I was down this way a couple of months ago however, my route today made the long but steady climb up to Jack Hill and into Epping Forest. A serendipitous navigation error at a roundabout took me along a busy road which I sought to leave at the earliest opportunity. I escaped onto one of the excellent paths which criss cross the forest. It was an excellent surface allowing for a mile or so of peaceful and uninterrupted cycling in the forest and back onto my original route.

Track through Epping forest​

After descending from the ridge I crossed a section of the extensive community resource that is the Lea Valley Park before returning to the urban environment of Waltham Cross and finally to my night's accommodation, this time courtesy of Travelodge.

Based on the less than appropriate sample size of two Premier Inns and a single Travelodge, the latter would appear more budget than premier. Air con came courtesy of the open window, as did all the noise associated with the local transport network. However, my room was a generous size and the shower was over the bath for those who prefer a soak. Only 30 minutes of free WiFi though. For my evening repast I opted for Travelodge’s meal deal which, like Premier Inn’s, included two courses for about the same price. The steak and ale pie and mash was marginally better, and the Knickerbocker Glory (served in a bowl rather than stemmed glass!) included a generous serving of vanilla ice cream which actually tasted of vanilla! Based on the modest size of the cafeteria, as opposed to the definitely more Premier restaurants, I suspect PI might edge the breakfast offering but we shall see in the morning.

A Knickerbocker Glory like none I've had before!​

And finally, the thunderstorms forecasters have been threatening us with for several days now failed to materialise, at least in this area. No complaints from me on that score.