Loose chain?

[Peteaud]

I did not know you could get 30t rear cassettes for 9 speed. If I did I would probably of went for one. Still at least if I keep the Deore mech I have more options in the future as I cannot handle hills with my bad knee.

HG50 Tiagra is 11/30 9 speed.

(its on my bike)

As i said, i did put a 32 on it just to see, but 30 is the max for the defy 2 (2010).

Going down the deore route is best for you as it make for more choices long term.#

 

[Peteaud]

9 speed with 11/32 cassette and sora mech as standard.

http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/Detail/13roubaix/roubaix/Roubaix

 

[Kins]

You can get a 34t rear 9 speed cassette. MTB spacing is the same, you just need a derailleur that will take the capacity.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270998195...eName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

Spesh roubaix has a sora running a 32 tooth cassette from the factory, shimano tech say max is 28 tooth. All spesh did was increase the hanger length.

2012 defy 2 runs a 30 tooth Tiagra as standard.

I run one of these with 32T and normal B screw on my hack bike, i.e. exceeding spec by 6T, and there is still a clear gap between sprocket and top jockey. Hence I remain surprised by the OP's Tiagra's lack of clearance with 28T. Since his is a modern bike, I would expect his hanger geometry to be fairly standard and similar to what is shown in e.g. sram's spec. below. After all, 2mm of L would only make 1T of difference.

 

[GrasB]

Spesh roubaix has a sora running a 32 tooth cassette from the factory, shimano tech say max is 28 tooth. All spesh did was increase the hanger length.

2012 defy 2 runs a 30 tooth Tiagra as standard.


But that does not mean a sora will run a 32 on all bikes, or Tiagra will run 30.

It depends on the bike

I have also seen Di2 running a 32 tooth

Well if Spesh do this as standard it explains the habitual sloppy shifting I've experienced bikes with tight ratio cassettes.

 

[Peteaud]

I run one of these with 32T and normal B screw on my hack bike, i.e. exceeding spec by 6T, and there is still a clear gap between sprocket and top jockey. Hence I remain surprised by the OP's Tiagra's lack of clearance with 28T. Since his is a modern bike, I would expect his hanger geometry to be fairly standard and similar to what is shown in e.g. sram's spec. below. After all, 2mm of L would only make 1T of difference.

Interesting. I have always wondered what the limits are on other resr mechs.

 

[Cletus Van Damme]

I think I have made an error with a similar setup on my other bike. This one is also a triple but the large front chainring is a 52t and the small one is 28t. Again it is the same cassette with a 28t large sprocket. I think I maybe added something incorrect into the chain length calculator as it looks too short to me. I am not that bothered as the chain a KMC 9 speed was cheap. I removed 2 links off the new chain, I just wondered if anybody had any ideas how many extra links should be in looking at the picture of large/large please? (Deore rear mech)



Small/small (Deore rear mech). I know there is an issue with the front mech touching the chain but it has been like this for ages and I never ride it in that combination and it works well.


Thanks for any advice.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I think I have made an error with a similar setup on my other bike. This one is also a triple but the large front chainring is a 52t and the small one is 28t. Again it is the same cassette with a 28t large sprocket. I think I maybe added something incorrect into the chain length calculator as it looks too short to me. I am not that bothered as the chain a KMC 9 speed was cheap. I removed 2 links off the new chain, I just wondered if anybody had any ideas how many extra links should be in looking at the picture of large/large please?.

It looks fine to me.

 

[Cletus Van Damme]

It looks fine to me.

Thanks mate, that's good to know will just leave it then

 

[GrasB]

I think I have made an error with a similar setup on my other bike. This one is also a triple but the large front chainring is a 52t and the small one is 28t. Again it is the same cassette with a 28t large sprocket. I think I maybe added something incorrect into the chain length calculator as it looks too short to me. I am not that bothered as the chain a KMC 9 speed was cheap. I removed 2 links off the new chain, I just wondered if anybody had any ideas how many extra links should be in looking at the picture of large/large please?

Personally I'd have the chain longer for a non-race bike so I have more scope to remove links if I have on on-ride problem. However, that chain has a deviation from straight so it's fine. I'd imagine you have enough slack to take a pair of links out & still have large-large available. Too short is when is little to no deviation in the chain as it goes through the rear mech on large-large.

 

[Cletus Van Damme]

Personally I'd have the chain longer for a non-race bike so I have more scope to remove links if I have on on-ride problem. However, that chain has a deviation from straight so it's fine. I'd imagine you have enough slack to take a pair of links out & still have large-large available. Too short is when is little to no deviation in the chain as it goes through the rear mech on large-large.

Thanks for the advice mate. I had one last question about working on bikes. I have got quite a lot of tools for bikes and cars but I struggle adjusting these Shimano rear mechs as the screws appear to be made out of cheese, well the b adjustment one anyway. What point of Philips screwdriver do you use for these or do you just use a flat bladed screwdriver?

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I have got quite a lot of tools for bikes and cars but I struggle adjusting these Shimano rear mechs as the screws appear to be made out of cheese

Whether it is front or rear mech, limit screws or the B screw, the answer is not about the screwdriver, but to put the mech in a position where the tip of the screw is not in contact with metal before adjusting it. For the B screw that means winding the mech back.

 

[GrasB]

aren't they pozidrive not phillips?

Whether it is front or rear mech, limit screws or the B screw, the answer is not about the screwdriver, but to put the mech in a position where the tip of the screw is not in contact with metal before adjusting it. For the B screw that means winding the mech back.

A good quality screw driver can easily deal with the pressure of tension applied by the mechs.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

aren't they pozidrive not phillips?

Don't think so. The vast majority have combination heads like this

A good quality screw driver can easily deal with the pressure of tension applied by the mechs.

In theory yes, but with previously mangled/crud filled heads, and indeed screws made of cheese, the reality is often different if they are also under spring or cable tension.

 

[GrasB]

Don't think so. The vast majority have combination heads like this

Exactly. I thought they tended to be Pozidrive/Slot.

In theory yes, but with previously mangled/crud filled heads, and indeed screws made of cheese, the reality is often different if it is also under spring or cable tension.

Sounds like the cheap screwdriver problem -
A £0.50 screwdriver bit doesn't fit properly to start with & will wreck the head
A £1 screwdriver will do a reasonable job on new & good condition screw heads
A £2.50 screwdriver will do a reasonable job on screw heads which are clean & semi-rounded
A £10.00 screw driver will work on almost anything as long as there is some flat surface to push against.
(increase prices by 5-10x when talking about screwdrivers them selves)

Also screw drivers wear out & need replacing, this is why I tend to buy bits rather than screw drivers.