Vauxhall subframe bolts,blue nylon sleeved bolts......nylocs,among many othersGood job I'm not in the motortrade then, you see nyloc makes me think of normal bolts but nuts that have plastic inside them.
Loctite for BB bolt? Any ideas?
- Thread starter Sore Thumb
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fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Never used any form of threadlock. Like Mickle says, grease ! Also stops any annoying clicks !
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
The bolts with a blue blob on them are patchlock.
You get nyloc nuts, not bolts.
To get back to the OP, I'd not use threadlock anywhere on a bike, especially not on the crank bolts.
Once they've been on a few weeks they'll want tightening anyway.
You get nyloc nuts, not bolts.
To get back to the OP, I'd not use threadlock anywhere on a bike, especially not on the crank bolts.
Once they've been on a few weeks they'll want tightening anyway.
oliglynn
Über Member
- Location
- Oxfordshire
Grease on the thread will enable you to tighten the bolt further (This may help if you've putting the chainset onto a tapered spindle and just need to get it on tighter)
Threadlock is an adhesive for use on the thread, and will help the bolt remain in position and not un-thread under load/vibration etc. This is probably what you need to keep the crank bolt from coming loose if the bolt is unwinding rather than the chainset not being on tight enough.
Superglue is bad news - don't ever use it on bolts. If it sticks before you've fully tightened it, or the bolt needs further tightening in future you may find yourself in trouble!
Grease and threadlock can be removed if they don't work or make things worse.
I used threadlock to stop my non-drive-side pedal bolts (clamping pedal onto a splined shaft) coming loose. Suspect there may have been some manufacturing defect, but was out of warranty. No problems since.
Threadlock is an adhesive for use on the thread, and will help the bolt remain in position and not un-thread under load/vibration etc. This is probably what you need to keep the crank bolt from coming loose if the bolt is unwinding rather than the chainset not being on tight enough.
Superglue is bad news - don't ever use it on bolts. If it sticks before you've fully tightened it, or the bolt needs further tightening in future you may find yourself in trouble!
Grease and threadlock can be removed if they don't work or make things worse.
I used threadlock to stop my non-drive-side pedal bolts (clamping pedal onto a splined shaft) coming loose. Suspect there may have been some manufacturing defect, but was out of warranty. No problems since.
bicyclos
Part time Anorak
- Location
- West Yorkshire
I use Loctite 222 which has a less aggressive lock adhesion to threads and I use it on spoke nipples and mudguard bolt as well as crank bolts in the past. Got a bottle in my toolbox!
Smut Pedaller
Über Member
- Location
- London
You can't substitute a threadlocker/nylocs by just tightening it up more, some parts are sensitive to being overtightened and/or will loosen from vibration or usage. Most BB cups these days come with blue loctite on them from the factory.
I also tend to use it on things like mudguard and rack bolts which tend to rattle loose, as well as on spoke nipples when I built a radially spoked wheel.
I also tend to use it on things like mudguard and rack bolts which tend to rattle loose, as well as on spoke nipples when I built a radially spoked wheel.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
Not wishing to contradict a new member 
but I've never seen a new BB with patchlock or any other form of Loctite.
but I've never seen a new BB with patchlock or any other form of Loctite.
I use Loctite 242 extensively. Contrary to popular opinion expressed here it doesn't make it harder or impossible to undo fasteners it makes it easier[1], but reduces the likelihood of unintended loosening.
Get it from a decent tool shop or online. Get a bottle not the small tubes, it's much more economical that way.
[1] by preventing corrosion in the thread space by preventing water ingress.
Smut Pedaller
Über Member
- Location
- London
Not wishing to contradict a new member
These are the standard Campagnolo ultratorque BB cups, well it's not blue but you get the point. I don't usually see it on square taper BB's though but I suspect it's maybe from the size of the bearings.
- Location
- The TerrorVortex
It's a fair cop Guv!!
I'm not over familiar with Campag ultratorque. Most of my bikes are Shimano.
I'm not over familiar with Campag ultratorque. Most of my bikes are Shimano.
Proto
Legendary Member
- Location
- East Devon/West Dorset
Campagnolo (and Shimano, I think) use Loctite Threadlock patches (or their equivalent)on brake bolts. Campagnolo also use its, as shown above, on BB cups. All disc brake rotor bolts that I have seen have Loctite patches on them.
I use it it on the bolt holding together the Ultratorque chainset axle halves, and I always use it on the bolt holding on the LH crank arm of a FSA chainset, SLK, K Force etc etc
The blokes on here saying Loctite has no place on a bicycle probably ought to go to a bike shop now and again, they'll be amazed at some of the stuff in there. Some modern have even got gears now. Madness. Who on earth needs gears on a bike ...................
When I were a lad, it were all fields around here, and fish and chips only cost thruppence etc etc etc
PS if any of my bikes had mudguards or pannier racks then I'd Threadlock the bolts holding them on too.
I use it it on the bolt holding together the Ultratorque chainset axle halves, and I always use it on the bolt holding on the LH crank arm of a FSA chainset, SLK, K Force etc etc
The blokes on here saying Loctite has no place on a bicycle probably ought to go to a bike shop now and again, they'll be amazed at some of the stuff in there. Some modern have even got gears now. Madness. Who on earth needs gears on a bike ...................
When I were a lad, it were all fields around here, and fish and chips only cost thruppence etc etc etc
PS if any of my bikes had mudguards or pannier racks then I'd Threadlock the bolts holding them on too.
I'm amazed that anyone who reads forums still puts a metal to metal thread without anything protecting it, don't you people read all the stuck bolt threads?
I use Locktite 242 on most bolts, it has a breakaway torque of 11.5 nm, that isn't round the head off your bolt force, it's hand tool territory. If applied properly that's the torque required when you come to remove it, whether that's in six months or six years, you can't say that for an unprotected thread and although grease serves some of that purpose it neither lasts as long or stops vibration loosening.
I use Locktite 242 on most bolts, it has a breakaway torque of 11.5 nm, that isn't round the head off your bolt force, it's hand tool territory. If applied properly that's the torque required when you come to remove it, whether that's in six months or six years, you can't say that for an unprotected thread and although grease serves some of that purpose it neither lasts as long or stops vibration loosening.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
Grease simples, even take out the cartridge brake block bolts and grease them before re-fitting.
PS I don't use a torque wrench - all by feel.
PS I don't use a torque wrench - all by feel.
