Let's See Your Folding Bike

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u_i

Über Member
Location
Michigan
To be fair: The solution was invented by someone else and build by a bunch of people (including myself) years before bikegang started to sell it.

Thanks for those detailed clarifications of who the credit is due to and the file link. Yes, I was aware of and eventually used your write-up on the bikeforums too. With all this, the one idea that I took from Bikegang, that I never saw elsewhere, was to make the wire clip out of an old spoke. One step from Duncan's write-up, that I would not recommend, is to reuse the original Brompton shifter, make a notch there and hope that miraculously it just works. Good luck! Another advice from my side is to use exclusively cogs that come from one uninterrupted sequence on a cassette. The pusher-tensioner combination on Brompton is not particularly sophisticated as a shifting device and you need to help it any way you can.
 

berlinonaut

Veteran
Location
Berlin Germany
the one idea that I took from Bikegang, that I never saw elsewhere, was to make the wire clip out of an old spoke.
That has been good practice in the German Bromptonauten forum for a couple of years already after someone did not like dremeling the cog like I did but still wanted the conversion.
One step from Duncan's write-up, that I would not recommend, is to reuse the original Brompton shifter, make a notch there and hope that miraculously it just works.
If would not exactly be miraculously as you could test the poision where the shifting happens before. But I used the opportunity to get rid of old mickey mouse eared shifter instead. :whistle:
Good luck! Another advice from my side is to use exclusively cogs that come from one uninterrupted sequence on a cassette. The pusher-tensioner combination on Brompton is not particularly sophisticated as a shifting device and you need to help it any way you can.
I did have no issues w/o doing so and if I was to do the conversion again I'd probably simply buy single cogs instead of hunting for a cassette that contains the desired sizes. Cheaper and easier.
 

u_i

Über Member
Location
Michigan
I did have no issues w/o doing so and if I was to do the conversion again I'd probably simply buy single cogs instead of hunting for a cassette that contains the desired sizes. Cheaper and easier.

I did an A/B comparison, putting on cogs from a sequence vs not, same number of teeth, same spacer, nothing else changed around, and it made a world of difference for me.
 

mitchibob

Über Member
Location
Treorchy, Wales
My Swytch ECO (smaller battery 35 mile range) kit arrived on Tuesday and I fitted it yesterday. I followed the supplied instruction manual and it all went quite smoothly, with no big headaches. The most fiddly aspect was getting the handlebar mount installed without fouling the existing gear change and brake cables. The fold I’d not affected, apart from the expected slight increase in width that Swytch supply a slight extended handlebar locking peg to accommodate.
Tilting the mount a bit further backwards than recommended allows me to carry on using the Brompton C Bag. The bag has to go on first before mount in the Swytch power pack, but that’s not really a problem because I couldn’t imagine leaving the bike unattended with the power pack mounted, even if the bike was locked to something.
First impressions are that it’s a good piece of kit, and like any change in the drive train it will need getting used to. One thing I’ve discovered that I haven’t seen mentioned anywhere is that it’s possible to disengage the motor without switching the unit off (handy when negotiating busy mixed cycling/pedestrian areas to avoid slight power surges when pedalling slowly at low speed) by selecting the down arrow when on the lowest power setting - re-engage by pressing the up arrow.
Overall I’m quite impressed, for me even the ordering process went as expected despite mixed results I’ve seen reported. I preregistered in March 2021, confirmed the order on April 1st and received my kit on August 3rd for a total 50% discounted cost of £654 including all taxes and delivery. I bought the bike secondhand in March 2020 for £550 and now have a really high quality, electric folding bike for just over £1,100.
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Always surprised to see a Brommie with a lock
 

straas

Matt
Location
Manchester
Back in September I finished some site visits up near Appleby earlier than I expected, so had a bit of an explore on the brompton. Saw 2 red squirrels. You can rent those cottages in the background, unfortunately not with kids though.
 

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a.twiddler

Veteran
Show us your folder!
Oh no! Not another one!
Recently I’ve been thinking about acquiring a Brompton. The Viking Safari caters for all my current folding bike needs, and I certainly enjoy riding it when the need arises. It's a bit non mainstream, but certainly not the tiniest of folders.
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I keep thinking what if… I got a bus pass...Veterans’ rail card ...and took a truly small folding bike with me as luggage? Also I’m curious about all the Brompton hype. Only how far can I stretch?

Since I don’t live in the teeming metrollops or indeed, have the misfortune to live in any large city, (other opinions are available) there isn’t a source of used Bromptons on tap. That leaves the usual suspects of evilbay, glumtree or lesser advertising sites or even cycle forum for sale boards. I soon came across some obviously rather dubious sellers as well as some who well knew what their item could fetch.

It rapidly became apparent, at least in the UK, that unless you found a seller on your doorstep you would either a) have to be prepared to trek to some far flung outpost of empire in the hope of being the solitary bidder or b) find a seller who did post or courier in which case you would have to do battle with legions of other bidders. As for Buy It Now you can still buy a B75, among others, new for less than several sellers were hoping to sell theirs for. A bargain Brompton is a really good definition of an oxymoron. They really do sell incredibly well.

After a few days of looking at this alternative reality I had to take a break and went for a nice bike ride. I pondered whether I wanted to continue with this path. After all I have a perfectly good 20” wheel folder which fits in the car and meets my folding bike needs as well as riding very well. It just lacks that nth degree of luggage rack compactness for an impromptu, unbooked train journey for example. After years of travelling miles to work, then many more years of living close to work, and now being retired and allegedly free to do what I want, I had a taste of leisure related train travel this summer (after about 18 months of not going anywhere much) which started off the “what if”s.

Initially I was looking for a used M6L or similar, but for that price you could go for a new B75. That’s tempting in itself, new bike, nice aquamarine paint scheme, but still got to go for the guards and rack at least. I decided to limit myself to an M3R/L. Even a old T5 would seem to go for as much as as a new B75, and I’d had a question mark over the finicky adjustment of the old Sturmey 5 speeders from previous experience.

I gave it a bit of time and saw several auctions go for out of range amounts but a couple where they were more achievable.

After looking at auctions with postage, and being irritated at better deals with collection only in distant parts of the country I communicated with some sellers and narrowed down possible deals. One 3 speeder looked promising, but I was surprised to find how old it was, early '90s and, due to an enthusiastic owner and a nice colour scheme it went for a surprising amount after 56 bids when I didn’t follow it up. Another couple of 3 speeders went for unfeasible amounts which also weren’t so new.

Finally I came across this almost -local white 3 speeder with rack, mudguards, luggage block and hub dynamo with LED lights where the bids had remained low for several days. It could have been more effectively advertised as I had to contact the seller for even basic information. This worked in my favour in the end as, to my surprise I won it.

All those years of bargaining and trying to get the best deals in other spheres and now in this bizarre new context this does seem to be a good deal, though it might take a while to convince myself. In the end, it is what it is. If you want one, you gotta suck it up. A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do. Beware of the duck billed platitudes. Etc etc.
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OK. The brief test ride wasn’t a massive squeakathon and everything, including the dynamo, worked.

Got it home.
So. What do we know?
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It’s a M3R (I think) in plain Jane satin white, not gloss as I'd at first thought. Apparently the quality of paint was better on the earlier gloss versions. There are some areas that could do with a rub down and touch up -not that it’s a huge problem, being white.

Overall, it’s not bad at all. It has been a family bike originally owned by grand parents, passed on to new parents who seem to have sold it to buy a pram and baby things. It hasn’t been particularly cherished, nor particularly abused. It seems to have been a family utility bike. The tyres are Brompton green label, part worn. From the condition of the rest of the bike they could well be the originals. It has full mudguards and a rack, with 6cm eazy wheels. The rims are not particularly worn. They have wear indicator grooves. I assume at this vintage they are single walled. It has a Shimano front hub dynamo.

The hub dynamo has led lights which light up surprisingly brightly from walking pace. They also have a stand light which stays lit when stopped. It remains to be seen whether there is enough illumination to see where you’re going in a dark lane. The lights have an on off switch. A bit of investigation shows the front light to be a Busch und Muller Lyt BN plus, versions of which are still in production. Reputed output around 15+ lumens. (Whatever that means in reality). Can probably upgrade that at some stage with up to date tech.

The front and rear rims look similar so it is likely that the dynamo hub was an original fitment. This dates it to not before 2010 which is when I believe the tyre dynamo option was replaced by the Shimano hub dynamo.

The brakes work well enough though the levers are rather spartan. They have plenty of feel. The rather quirky gear lever works easily. The bell, though battered, works well enough.

There is a Brompton luggage block in place at the front, and a slightly different block is strapped in place under the saddle, though I have no idea what will fit that. Perhaps someone out there can enlighten me?

The saddle has a Pentaclip and moulded finger holds beneath for carrying with a sort of black stippled surface on top and Brompton logo. It looks in good condition. The seat stem looks like chrome steel, with a couple of “O” rings just under the saddle to protect the frame when retracted. There doesn’t seem to be an automatic seat height gadget, possibly was something fitted to newer bikes, or maybe this being a family use bike might have been more convenient without it.
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The rear frame has a locking clip. The folding pedal seems in good condition. This seems anecdotally a rare phenomenon for a used Brompton, perhaps it’s a recent replacement.

The cranks are 170mm with a 50T one piece chainring which was superseded by a separate spider crankset in 2013 thus narrowing the timescale further. (2010-2013) The bottom bracket seems to be the original cup and cone, feels smooth with no grittiness or play.

The gear ratios with the Brompton Standard Ratio three speed hub are (assuming everything else standard) and a 13t sprocket:-

1st 47”, 2nd 62.7”, 3rd 83.5” which seems a bit tall if you live among even modest hills. A Brompton feature apparently. I will have to look into this. I don’t mind a lower top gear as long as I can get up the hills. It has BSR printed on the chrome gear hub, confirming Standard Range.

It folds and unfolds easily. It’s me that needs the practice. The front mudguard is a little battered at the back, perhaps from some years of poor folding technique due to not initially turning the front wheel aside when folding the rear triangle under.
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So far, it looks a good bet for a few years’ future use. It certainly looks well thought out. I just need to double check it all over and take it for a decent test ride once this horrible weather eases. Then I will no doubt detect some more stuff that needs attention. Perhaps some of the Brompton Detective Squad out there will spot things I've missed, nothing too serious I hope.

The obvious thing that needs seeing to first of all is the back of the front mudguard which might be fixed by just trimming but I’ve ordered a steel bumper from SJS to protect it in the future.

I will deal with issues as they arise, most likely is lowering the gearing though it does seem possible to inexpensively fit a double chainring as long as you can keep within the limits of the chain tensioner, and the chainline with regard to folding. I have a lot of things in mind, but intend to keep it as a functional bike. It may be a symptom of galloping Bromptonitis that despite the best of intentions I might eventually succumb to all kinds of bling addiction but for now I just need to see how it goes.
 

shingwell

Senior Member
Nice looking B! But I notice you are missing the rear mudflap (they can get scraped on the ground and come off when you fold the rear wheel under). Might not seem very big but you *will* get a muddy line up your back without one. £3.50 From Brilliant Bikes who are...errr...brilliant.
 

berlinonaut

Veteran
Location
Berlin Germany
It folds and unfolds easily. It’s me that needs the practice.
Looking at your picture of the folded bike I clearly would second that. ;)

white-brompton-5-jpg.jpg


This is what it should look like:
brompton-h3rd-tempest-blau.jpg



A bit of investigation shows the front light to be a Busch und Muller Lyt BN plus, versions of which are still in production. Reputed output around 15+ lumens. (Whatever that means in reality).

It means that the average candle is brighter. ;) Ok but cheap lamps deliver 50+lux, good ones 90+lux. Yes, this is a massive difference. An upgrade is heavily recommended.

The front and rear rims look similar so it is likely that the dynamo hub was an original fitment. This dates it to not before 2010 which is when I believe the tyre dynamo option was replaced by the Shimano hub dynamo.
The bike was built between 2010 and 2012 judging from parts and setup. If you want to know the exact date: On the rear side of the seat tube there is a rectancle shaped silver sticker. The first four digits on it are year and month when the bike was built.

Apart from the front lamp I would recommend Ergon grips on the bars, better brake levers (will change brake behaviour massively), refitting the rear mud flap (as someone mentioned earlier) and changing the sprocket from the stock 13t to 14t (which will solve your high-gearing issue cheaply). The bike also seems to lack the hook at the left side of the front wheel that is necessary for the fold.
 

a.twiddler

Veteran
Looking at your picture of the folded bike I clearly would second that. ;)

View attachment 621698

This is what it should look like:
View attachment 621697




It means that the average candle is brighter. ;) Ok but cheap lamps deliver 50+lux, good ones 90+lux. Yes, this is a massive difference. An upgrade is heavily recommended.


The bike was built between 2010 and 2012 judging from parts and setup. If you want to know the exact date: On the rear side of the seat tube there is a rectancle shaped silver sticker. The first four digits on it are year and month when the bike was built.

Apart from the front lamp I would recommend Ergon grips on the bars, better brake levers (will change brake behaviour massively), refitting the rear mud flap (as someone mentioned earlier) and changing the sprocket from the stock 13t to 14t (which will solve your high-gearing issue cheaply). The bike also seems to lack the hook at the left side of the front wheel that is necessary for the fold.
And was my face red! I'm thinking about the grips, got my eye on some Shimano levers, will get the mud flap sorted. I'd better check what's on the rear hub first, probably need to change the chain at the same time as the sprocket. Will have to chase up the plastic hook. Looks like it attaches to the left mudguard stay.The list is only going to get longer, I expect.

Thanks for the input.
 

a.twiddler

Veteran
Nice looking B! But I notice you are missing the rear mudflap (they can get scraped on the ground and come off when you fold the rear wheel under). Might not seem very big but you *will* get a muddy line up your back without one. £3.50 From Brilliant Bikes who are...errr...brilliant.
Thanks for the tip! I wonder how long my list is going to be by this time tomorrow?
 

berlinonaut

Veteran
Location
Berlin Germany
And was my face red!
No need to be red faced! The mistake you made is one of the most common ones and it is always fun to look at the creative ways how Bromptons can be folded (well, kind of). I've seen bikes advertised the way you folded it and the owners had used them for 20 years... ^_^ As the front wheel hook is missing from your bike it is even more understandable.
 

shingwell

Senior Member
When folded it's important that the saddle is right down and the seat tube locked in that position because that, rather cleverly, is what keeps everything locked folded. I too bought my B from ebay by post, never having used one before, and it took me ages to work out how to get the thing to open!
 

roley poley

Veteran
Location
leeds
yep a nice bike ..as said above a hook on the front will help your folding and if you chose to post it's frame no we can find a date for you:hello:
 
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