Spinney
Bimbleur extraordinaire
- Location
- Back up north
Is that half a melon or something on the front?
Let's have your hacks, tips and money saving ideas for beginners.
- Thread starter Cycleops
- Start date
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Howyadoinoutthere
Well-Known Member
If your hands are greasy clean them by rubbing butter on the grease, rinse hands, then use washing up liquid to remove the butter.
roadrash
cycle chatterer
- Location
- sitting on the edge of wigan pier
or sugar
Abody.EGY
New Member
- Location
- Cairo, Egypt
It's a delicious and sweet piece of Coconut haha
Always Cross
Guru
Just done a 46 mile ride I wore ski mittens my hands were very toasty. Buff on the head under a plastic hat. The only thing that got cold was my feet I had booties on but I ride recumbent so my feet stick out in front. Any ideas for warm feet?
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Yeah, true. Most of my cycling is recreational, so I lycra up, but if I'm commuting / going shopping, then it's ordinary clothing. However, if cycling in ordinary clothing, it's still best to ensure you're wearing a wicking base layer of some kind.
Because there is nothing more uncomfortable than having to spent a day in a sweaty, icky t-shirt that gets cold as soon as you stop riding.
Been there, done that, will never do it again.
Reynard
Guru
- Location
- Cambridgeshire, UK
Lidl's "Feet Heater" clone socks. IIRC they're £3 for two pairs of the kiddies sizes (I'm lucky, can buy them as I have small feet) or £4 for two pairs the adult sizes. Teamed up with a lightweight cotton or silk sock underneath and they're just the ticket.
froze
Über Member
- Location
- Fort Wayne, Indiana
don't buy expensive jerseys they don't feel any different then cheap $20 ones, the same is true with socks; but don't apply that logic with cycling shorts or you could be paying for with butt pain.
Of course always try to buy stuff on closeout sales at the end of the year, you can save a lot of money, I never pay more than $30 for a tire yet I routinely get tires that normally sold for $50 and up; so shop late in the year for stuff you think you might need next year. I'm always looking for sales for stuff I need and I usually end up saving at least 45% from regular prices.
Another cost saving tip, there is no need to replace your cables every season like most bike shops will try to get you to do or even people I've read on the forums try to proclaim, my cables all last at least 8 years before needing replacing, and on my main bike that's about 4,000 miles a year and those cables are still good after 4 years with about 16,000 miles on them. Also there is no reason to change your rear gear cluster everytime you replace your chain, the rear gear cluster should last 3 times longer than the chain, so on the third chain replacement that's when the gear cluster should be seriously looked at.
Another cost saving tip...maintain, maintain, maintain and clean, clean, clean your bike. You need to make sure that you are keeping your chains cleaned and lubed, do that and your chains will last a lot longer, wipe down your chain after every ride clean and relube after about 250 miles unless exposed to rain then clean and relube immediately after the ride. Keep the sprockets and gears clean as well, clean the dirt off the derailleurs and put a drop of lube on the pivots of the derailleurs. A tough duty sponge with water and Dawn for dishes (not the lemon, the acid in the citrus could damage bike parts) will clean your chain and sprockets quite well so you don't really need any expensive chemicals to do the job. Keeping your bike maintained and clean will keep long term repair cost low.
Of course always try to buy stuff on closeout sales at the end of the year, you can save a lot of money, I never pay more than $30 for a tire yet I routinely get tires that normally sold for $50 and up; so shop late in the year for stuff you think you might need next year. I'm always looking for sales for stuff I need and I usually end up saving at least 45% from regular prices.
Another cost saving tip, there is no need to replace your cables every season like most bike shops will try to get you to do or even people I've read on the forums try to proclaim, my cables all last at least 8 years before needing replacing, and on my main bike that's about 4,000 miles a year and those cables are still good after 4 years with about 16,000 miles on them. Also there is no reason to change your rear gear cluster everytime you replace your chain, the rear gear cluster should last 3 times longer than the chain, so on the third chain replacement that's when the gear cluster should be seriously looked at.
Another cost saving tip...maintain, maintain, maintain and clean, clean, clean your bike. You need to make sure that you are keeping your chains cleaned and lubed, do that and your chains will last a lot longer, wipe down your chain after every ride clean and relube after about 250 miles unless exposed to rain then clean and relube immediately after the ride. Keep the sprockets and gears clean as well, clean the dirt off the derailleurs and put a drop of lube on the pivots of the derailleurs. A tough duty sponge with water and Dawn for dishes (not the lemon, the acid in the citrus could damage bike parts) will clean your chain and sprockets quite well so you don't really need any expensive chemicals to do the job. Keeping your bike maintained and clean will keep long term repair cost low.
Ming the Merciless
There is no mercy
- Location
- Inside my skull
Get bar end shifters and pure grake levers. Easier to maintain and more reliable. Plus much cheaper.
PaulSB
Squire
- Location
- Chorley, Lancashire
Very much agree with the advice from @froze regarding cleaning. A clean bike will always function better than a dirty one and, for me, you’ll feel good riding it.
I would add to the advice:
Get your chain and group set scrupulously clean. Really spend time on this. You’ll only need to do this occasionally.
I find an oily cloth is best for wiping down the chain. I use the same one until it’s just too filthy to handle. Seems to work better than a clean one.
Use a garden hose or spray pump to wash dirt off the chain rings and cassette.
Always wipe down and hose immediately after your ride - once you’ve showered you won’t feel like doing it!!!!
Learn to lube correctly.. This means:
Choose a quality, non sticky lube. It will be expensive but last a long time. My last one cost £12 but that was three years ago!! Sticky lube attracts dirt. Consider two types, one for winter and one for summer.
Apply lube sparingly and always wipe off any excess
Only lube the inside surface of each roller. This means lubing the lower portion of the chain on its upper surface. Lube is only needed in the rollers and inside the roller.
Do not lube after every ride - it just contributes to collecting more road gunk. If you lube and clean correctly lubing when the chain looks/feels dry is all that’s needed.
Search on here for the “Mickle method”
I would add to the advice:
Get your chain and group set scrupulously clean. Really spend time on this. You’ll only need to do this occasionally.
I find an oily cloth is best for wiping down the chain. I use the same one until it’s just too filthy to handle. Seems to work better than a clean one.
Use a garden hose or spray pump to wash dirt off the chain rings and cassette.
Always wipe down and hose immediately after your ride - once you’ve showered you won’t feel like doing it!!!!
Learn to lube correctly.. This means:
Choose a quality, non sticky lube. It will be expensive but last a long time. My last one cost £12 but that was three years ago!! Sticky lube attracts dirt. Consider two types, one for winter and one for summer.
Apply lube sparingly and always wipe off any excess
Only lube the inside surface of each roller. This means lubing the lower portion of the chain on its upper surface. Lube is only needed in the rollers and inside the roller.
Do not lube after every ride - it just contributes to collecting more road gunk. If you lube and clean correctly lubing when the chain looks/feels dry is all that’s needed.
Search on here for the “Mickle method”
Last edited:
I disagree with this, clean the bike when it looks dirty. I don't touch the bike after each ride, I don't have the time given I commute to work 5 days on it. If it's a particularly wet day I'll give the chain a quick once over with a rag, but that's it. I do however clean the bike thoroughly (about half an hour - soapy water in a bucket with a sponge and a hose to wash everything off) at the weekend or on a friday.
It would be easy to go overboard and overthink it. Just have a bit of common sense - if you've been out on the bike on a warm, dry, sunny day, chances are the bike will be in the same condition as when you get back. Commuting at 8am on a weekday in winter with salt and grit on the roads in the pissing rain however...
ADarkDraconis
Cardinal Member
- Location
- Ohio, USA
I find it handy to carry a pair of needle-nosed pliers along in my little toolkit. They are useful for getting out tiny thorns or pieces of glass stuck in your tire and can even be used to bend fender braces or tighten down bolts in a pinch.
ColinJ
Puzzle game procrastinator!
- Location
- Todmorden - Yorks/Lancs border
I was thinking along those lines the other day when I recalled the only time that I have asked another cyclist for help when I had a puncture. I had some glass stuck in the tyre and was struggling to get it out. I might go for a lighter option though - a pair of tweezers.
The other problem that I had that day was that I didn't have my reading glasses with me so I couldn't quite focus properly. My tip would be to carry a spare pair of glasses with you if you'd need them. I have a fold-up pair in a tough case so I have just put those in my Camelbak bag and will take them on every ride in future.
ADarkDraconis
Cardinal Member
- Location
- Ohio, USA
I am fortunate/unfortunate in the fact that I have to wear my glasses all the time so I can never forget them at home. That means though that I spring for unbreakable frames (Technolite flex, they call it plastic titanium!) and sturdy lenses because if they break while I am away from home I am screwed because I cannot see well enough to drive or ride home... or do anything really.
