I feel your pain, I make sure to twist the pad bolt every couple of months on all my bikes now, just in case.the drilling out of the screws is where this all started...
I feel your pain, I make sure to twist the pad bolt every couple of months on all my bikes now, just in case.the drilling out of the screws is where this all started...
not much better. I had those in the tektro brakes on a Boardman. if they're in too tight the bolt head can easily get rounded off…You can get Allen key head screws, normally black, that are much better that those slot head junk. And better than split pins.
that might be a good option. I'll also put some lithium grease on the thread…I feel your pain, I make sure to twist the pad bolt every couple of months on all my bikes now, just in case.
Sounds about right, I rarely do them above hand tight and have never had one work it's way loose. Never had one that's rounded out either.the lbs I spoke to said that the screw needs to be just hand tight plus a quarter turn, but that people over-tighten them (ribble presumably)…
Never thought about doing that to be honest, certainly nothing I've ever seen done.any point in putting plumber's tape in the thread where the new calliper meets the hose?
won't bother then, unless the threads leak…Never thought about doing that to be honest, certainly nothing I've ever seen done.
Definitely not. If fitted right it won't leak. Fragments of that tape can make their way in to the hydraulic lines which will be a whole new world of pain. The compression olive is what gives the seal.any point in putting plumber's tape in the thread where the new calliper meets the hose?