Knackered bearings after 4,300 miles?

[gbb]

As for compatability with other BBs, I dont think there are options. The crank axle diameter is something like 19mm (I'm working from old memory) and certainly HT2 is different. Youd need to do some homework but when I tried it wasn't an option. Replace the BB AND crankset yes..but not just the bearing cups.

 

[gbb]

In the end...as a challenge, I replaced the bearings in the outboard cups...
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/fsa-megaexo-omega-bb-bianchi-overhaul-pt-2.70132/
you can see the damaged top hat sleeves in the post.

 

[EasyPeez]

In the end...as a challenge, I replaced the bearings in the outboard cups...
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/fsa-megaexo-omega-bb-bianchi-overhaul-pt-2.70132/
you can see the damaged top hat sleeves in the post.

Yep, it was this guide to replacing the bearings and the top hat sleeves that I was congratulating you on/thanking you for earlier. @Ajax Bay linked to that same thread.
Can't find any other options so it looks like I need to weigh up whether it's worth spending 30 notes on another sub-par FSA BB or splashing out on a new chainset...I was kind of fancying a 52/36 anyway....!

 

[mrbikerboy73]

Can't find any other options so it looks like I need to weigh up whether it's worth spending 30 notes on another sub-par FSA BB or splashing out on a new chainset...I was kind of fancying a 52/36 anyway....!

Looks like the excuse you needed for that new chainset!

 

[EasyPeez]

Looks like the excuse you needed for that new chai set!

None of the Shimanos fit, nor the Hollowtech, and I've contacted Hope and they don't manufacture any BBs that will fit with the FSA chainset, so it looks like you might be right....

 

[Milkfloat]

IMO if you are going for a bike fit where there is a chance of being told to get new cranks, I would try and fix what you have. So either service what you have and replace the top hats or splash the £30 on a new BB.

 

[EasyPeez]

IMO if you are going for a bike fit where there is a chance of being told to get new cranks, I would try and fix what you have. So either service what you have and replace the top hats or splash the £30 on a new BB.

Are new cranks alone easy/cheap to come by? Googling FSA cranks isn't getting me very far, I'm just finding lots of chainsets. Moot at this point I guess - hopefully the fit will tell me the 170mm cranks are fine for my shape. I'm not sure how often new size cranks are recommended by a bike fit, some info. online suggests it basically never happens whereas other sources reckon it's one of the main 3 things they look at and change! Recommendations on best crank length for rider height/inside leg is similarly divergent.

TBH I probably will get a new FSA BB and then upgrade to a Hope BB and Shimano or Campag chainsest when I've worn this current one out. Although I'm finding I'd prefer a 52/36 it seems a bit bourgeois to just bin off a perfectly good 50/34. I might as well settle for another FSA BB for now and ride the current chainset into the ground.

 

[gbb]

EasyPeez, post: 4104998, member: 38443"]Are new cranks alone easy/cheap to come by? Googling FSA cranks isn't getting me very far, I'm just finding lots of chainsets. Moot at this point I guess - hopefully the fit will tell me the 170mm cranks are fine for my shape. I'm not sure how often new size cranks are recommended by a bike fit, some info. online suggests it basically never happens whereas other sources reckon it's one of the main 3 things they look at and change! Recommendations on best crank length for rider height/inside leg is similarly divergent.

TBH I probably will get a new FSA BB and then upgrade to a Hope BB and Shimano or Campag chainsest when I've worn this current one out. Although I'm finding I'd prefer a 52/36 it seems a bit bourgeois to just bin off a perfectly good 50/34. I might as well settle for another FSA BB for now and ride the current chainset into the ground.

If youre happy a 52/36 is the future for you, why not get a 36 chainring and fit to your current chainset, I think theyr less than a tenner from Ribbles for instance.
Very easy to swap, I used to run a 50/40, no need for anyone to stick with a 34 if its too low.

 

[EasyPeez]

If youre happy a 52/36 is the future for you, why not get a 36 chainring and fit to your current chainset, I think theyr less than a tenner from Ribbles for instance.
Very easy to swap, I used to run a 50/40, no need for anyone to stick with a 34 if its too low.

Good idea. Actually though, it's the big ring I'm more interested in changing, as I find myself spinning out sometimes with my current 50-12 ratios. The idea of going up from a 34 is actually slightly daunting when thinking of some of the bigger hills I tackle so maybe my best bet is just to change the bigger ring. Is a 52/34 unheard of?

 

[Ajax Bay]

A 52t of the same BCD will fit where you have a 50t. Though if you're "spinning out" with a 50-12 why not save your effort (which is being disproportionately dissipated pushing air out of the way at 50+kph at 100 cadence) and save it for the hill which will assuredly follow. You're not using this bike for TTs, are you? You will find the front derailleur can struggle with a chainwheel difference of more than 16, which is why the two compact combinations are 50-34 and 52-36. Swings and roundabouts, or change to a triple if you want a high top and a low bottom - my bike with a triple on is 52-42-30 - Drumnadrochit tested and passed.

 

[gbb]

Never done it, 52 instead of a 50 but two things spring to mind.
The FD is possibly, probably, compact specific. That means it may not be able to accomodate a 52.
Also I seem to remember the maximum jump it can deal with is 16 T...hence 34/50. 34/52 is even greater.
Im not positive on either, just seems to stick in my mind for some reason.

 

[gbb]

What range is your cassette, 12...28 ?. Is an 11-28 an option to give you a bit more top end?

 

[EasyPeez]

Thanks for the info @gbb & @Ajax Bay
I didn't know about the derailleur set-up being a problem. I'm told my chainset has at least a few thousand miles left in it yet, so I've decided to just bung in another FSA BB this time. Rather than mess about with new rings, I'll upgrade the BB and chainset together next time around, and go for a 52/36 set-up. The wait will suit my financial situation better too.
My cassette is a 12-28 Tiagra. When shopping around I couldn't find an 11-28, only 11-25. Maybe I didn't look hard enough? Would an 11 offer much more top end than a 12 anyway when teamed with a compact? I would have thought the difference would be minimal? Cheers

 

[mrbikerboy73]

Thanks for the info @gbb & @Ajax BayMy cassette is a 12-28 Tiagra. When shopping around I couldn't find an 11-28, only 11-25. Maybe I didn't look hard enough? Would an 11 offer much more top end than a 12 anyway when teamed with a compact? I would have thought the difference would be minimal? Cheers

I don't think you can get an 11-28 Tiagra cassette but you can get a 105 11-28 cassette. The downside is they cost a bit more. I doubt you would notice music difference in 1 tooth unless you are spinning out regularly going down hills etc.

 

[Pale Rider]

Thanks for the info @gbb & @Ajax Bay
I didn't know about the derailleur set-up being a problem. I'm told my chainset has at least a few thousand miles left in it yet, so I've decided to just bung in another FSA BB this time. Rather than mess about with new rings, I'll upgrade the BB and chainset together next time around, and go for a 52/36 set-up. The wait will suit my financial situation better too.
My cassette is a 12-28 Tiagra. When shopping around I couldn't find an 11-28, only 11-25. Maybe I didn't look hard enough? Would an 11 offer much more top end than a 12 anyway when teamed with a compact? I would have thought the difference would be minimal? Cheers

I agree changing to an 11 won't make a great deal of difference.

You must also be driving on slightly less of the cog.

Given that you are a fairly hard rider, an 11 could encourage slipping.