KMC chains

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robjh

Legendary Member
I use KMC with no problem. The only downer is the quick link which I found difficult to engage and disengage by hand so had to get the BBB tool which does both effortlessly.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/bbb-open-link-closing-link-tool-btl77/rp-prod47439
The 'quick link' is such a sod to undo after it's been on for any time that I use a normal chain tool to undo another link if ever I need to break the chain during its lifetime. But that need is rare and I've been quite happy with KMC chains on Shimano set-ups for a long time now.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Undoing the quick link is a mare, and have to agree the special tool is a must for the toolkit. One tip for doing them up in the first place is to put the bike on the ground with the link in place on the top run of chain, squeeze the outer sides of the links with pliers and press down on a pedal at the same time, holding a brake on. Piece of cake.
 

slowmotion

Quite dreadful
Location
lost somewhere
[QUOTE 4248290, member: 259"]I don't bother with pliers to put them back on, I've never needed to. I use the special ones to take them off though - well worth the money.[/QUOTE]
Sometimes the quick links come apart with just a bit of finger pressure, and sometimes they really don't. A pair of KMC removal pliers is a good investment.
Hardcore types have a trick of putting the link on a chainring and belting it to undo the miscreant. I can't find the link, but it's worth seeking it.
 
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mjr

Comfy armchair to one person & a plank to the next
One tip for doing them up in the first place is to put the bike on the ground with the link in place on the top run of chain, squeeze the outer sides of the links with pliers and press down on a pedal at the same time, holding a brake on. Piece of cake.
Squeezing pliers with one hand, holding a brake with another while pushing on a pedal sounds a bit like contortionism to me. I use the method I read about at CTC, kinking the quick link onto the big ring (so that one end of the link isn't sat in the teeth of the ring), then pushing it open with the back of a wrench. http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?p=987274#p987274
 
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Andywinds

Andywinds

Senior Member
I agree with you guys about the chain link tool, fitting them is easy, I just pull the chain until it connected, or just put the bike on the floor and push one pedal. I've used both SRAM and KMC with the quick link and would never use Shimano as they look a bit more of a challenge.
 

Fab Foodie

hanging-on in quiet desperation ...
Location
Kirton, Devon.
Squeezing pliers with one hand, holding a brake with another while pushing on a pedal sounds a bit like contortionism to me. I use the method I read about at CTC, kinking the quick link onto the big ring (so that one end of the link isn't sat in the teeth of the ring), then pushing it open with the back of a wrench. http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?p=987274#p987274
Great method!
I have managed to open them with brute finger power before (squeezing the side links helps) but it's not easy. Otherwise I carry a chain tool and in an emergency split the chain in the old fashioned way.
Basic KMC 9 speed chains for me.
 

Cubist

Still wavin'
Location
Ovver 'thill
Squeezing pliers with one hand, holding a brake with another while pushing on a pedal sounds a bit like contortionism to me. I use the method I read about at CTC, kinking the quick link onto the big ring (so that one end of the link isn't sat in the teeth of the ring), then pushing it open with the back of a wrench. http://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?p=987274#p987274
Not that hard! Stand on the left of bike, left hand holds brake, right hand holds pliers, left foot presses pedal. In terms of contortion it's not quite as difficult as getting onto a bicycle.
 

Mile195

Veteran
Location
West Kent
Yes they are Shimano compatible. I'm not convinced that my bike shifts as well since I had to buy one after my chain broke halfway through a ride. However it did go onto a partially worn cassette so I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt and maybe it's just psychological.
 
Location
Loch side.
Yes they are Shimano compatible. I'm not convinced that my bike shifts as well since I had to buy one after my chain broke halfway through a ride. However it did go onto a partially worn cassette so I'm giving it the benefit of the doubt and maybe it's just psychological.
Chain and/or sprocket wear does not affect shifting in any way.
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
Not that hard! Stand on the left of bike, left hand holds brake, right hand holds pliers, left foot presses pedal. In terms of contortion it's not quite as difficult as getting onto a bicycle.
And add to that that the alleged contortion is all about fitting the link, while the CTC "hit it with a rock" method is about undoing a link.
 
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Mile195

Veteran
Location
West Kent
Chain and/or sprocket wear does not affect shifting in any way.

Indeed it shouldn't. I think I was just trying to make myself feel better for spending 30 pounds on an after-market chain from a shop that I knew had ripped me off, when I usually pay about 20 pounds for genuine shimano.

The chain had a price tag of 40 pounds on it. He discounted it before I even mentioned that it was daylight robbery... Which implied he already knew that's what I was about to say. Still, when you're freezing cold, just want to get home, your feet are sore from walking in cleats, then you just pay it to get back on the bike and on your way. There was no way I was walking to another shop.
 
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