Rob3rt
Man or Moose!
- Location
- Manchester
Clearly you've never heard of different length handlebar stems to put the 'bars in exactly the right position. A slightly smaller frame will be both lighter and stiffer. Look at the frames that most good road racers ride. They are generally quite small with long stems and considerably more than 4" of seatpin showing as you quote.
Anyway it's all quite irrelevant really as neither of us are interested in buying the frame/bike although I would like it as a winter hack but it's a little too far for me to go to collect. Shame really, I do still like the old steel frames.
Graham
I think this may have been Zoiders point, and if it was, I agree re. the comment to look at a modern racers frame.
Modern race frames typically do not have a horizontal top tube, they tend to have curved or sloping top tubes to varying degree's. This throws some confusion into the mix. How to measure top tube, well traditionally its measured centre of headtube to centre of seat tube along the horizontal top tube, but nowadays with sloping top tubes, measuring along the top tube makes little sense as a standard as differing slopes etc provide differing measurements. The typical "horizontal" or "effective" top tube measurement quoted in frame geometry datasheets is the equivalent of the old measurement. In terms of frame sizing appearence, the sloping top tube means a lot of seatpost is exposed and it makes frames look a lot smaller when in fact the frames are not smaller in terms of effective top tube, they just have shorter seat tubes.
If you measure from the centre of the head tube to the centre of the seatube with the ruler horizontal (not in line with top tube) then you will get the same frame sizings as on older style frames. This is the measurement that is most important in frame size selection as it cannot be changed.