Just wondering...... What gearing do you have?

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My Bianchi has a 36/50 compact with 12-25 on the back (Ive found I often spin out with this gearing).
My Sirrus has a 30/42/52 triple with 12-26 ( I spend the majority of time in the 42/52 and made it up hills up to 21% with the 42, 26 combo).
So Ive decided to spec my new bike with a 39/53 and 12-25 on the back. If I don't get on with that I'll fit a larger cassette.
My Workhorse (the commuter) is pretty low geared I think its a 28/38/48 triple with a 11-32 cassette and I spend most of the time on that in the large chainring.
 

Randochap

Senior hunter
Lightweight rando bikes: Campag 30-40-50 X 13-29
Trad randonneuse: Shimano 24-36-48 X 12-30
MTB: 24-36-46 X 12-28
 

De Sisti

Guru
Bike 1: xacd titanium audax 48/36/26...........13-28
Bike 2: xacd titanium sportive 50/34/26...........13-28
Bike 3: Paul Hewitt Cheviot 46/34/24...........11-32
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Bike 1 - SRAM-I9 hub gear - 48/21 - gives 9 gears from 33.7 to 114.5 inches
Bike 2 - triple derailer 9 speed - 30/42/52 - 12-26 - gives gears from 31 to 116 inches
Bike 3 - SA SRF3 speed hub - 44/18 - gives 3 gears approx 50/66/89 inches
 

Cranky

New Member
Location
West Oxon
Main bike:

48/36/26.......11-32

(It's a tourer. I've never used the 26...32 yet but I'm sure the day will come).
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
Cranky said:
Main bike:

48/36/26.......11-32

(It's a tourer. I've never used the 26...32 yet but I'm sure the day will come).

ah, but surely the luxury of knowing you've got a 22 inch gear in reserve is far more comforting than having a 130 inch monster at the other end would be?
 

RedBike

New Member
Location
Beside the road
I ran out of gears using the MTB (22/32) last weekend on a road climb!!
It's the first time in years i've failed to get up a hill due to fitness / leg power.

[excuse mode]I was pulling a heavy trailer and I had done a good mileage already that day [/excuse mode]

I have a compact chainset on my road bike but I only have a 23 tooth cassette. I've never failed to get up anything yet with 36/23.

I suppose 'suitable gearing' all depends on the bike in question. For example I would would substantially lower gears on a loaded tourer than I would on my time triial bike.
 

Cranky

New Member
Location
West Oxon
MacBludgeon said:
ah, but surely the luxury of knowing you've got a 22 inch gear in reserve is far more comforting than having a 130 inch monster at the other end would be?

Quite true. I haven't done any loaded touring in the Pennines or Wales on this bike yet, so the 22" will get used eventually, I'm sure. The top gear is actually a higher ratio than my previous 52...26 hybrid's, and only used occasionally.
 

jimboalee

New Member
Location
Solihull
The problem is, Rider Rich, there are not many bicycle engineers who can specify you a gear set without getting you on an ergonometer and weighing scales.

There is a 'quicky' formula, which I have been told is "Crap" many times by others here, but remains ( to my knowledge ) the only method that has been seen here.

Choosing gearing for hills is ( Randochap will no doubt agree ) the foremost subject of disscussion amongst cyclists.

The 'quicky' method calculates a gear which should get a novice cyclist up a 10%. When the novice progresses to an 'average' cyclist, he will not use that gear again on a 10% and it will get used on a 12% and so on.

If you study the gearing of the bikes on the tour right now, you will see thay have the '10%' gear. It will probably never be used, but is fitted JIC.

As a starter, use the 'quicky' method to find a gear length for a 10%. If your existing gearset has lower, all well and good. If it hasn't, fit a smaller inner ring or larger sprocket cassette.

As you gain experience riding your bike, your body and physique will adapt to the new demands. It will get easier ( loss of weight ) and feel easier ( increased muscularity ).

I would suggest you not go spending any more money on the bike, but continuously re-try those hills.

There will be a limit to the gradient your bike will climb. 34 x 26 is the same as 30 x 23, and that just about gets me up a 14% at 4 mph.

Any steeper than 14% and I'm thinking about getting off, or wishing I'd fitted the 25 sprocket.

When the riding speed gets below walking speed do I finally jump off and push. On 20% hills.:evil:
 

Steve Austin

The Marmalade Kid
Location
Mlehworld
jimboalee said:
The problem is, Rider Rich, there are not many bicycle engineers who can specify you a gear set without getting you on an ergonometer and weighing scales.

There is a 'quicky' formula, which I have been told is "Crap" many times by others here, but remains ( to my knowledge ) the only method that has been seen here.

Choosing gearing for hills is ( Randochap will no doubt agree ) the foremost subject of disscussion amongst cyclists.

The 'quicky' method calculates a gear which should get a novice cyclist up a 10%. When the novice progresses to an 'average' cyclist, he will not use that gear again on a 10% and it will get used on a 12% and so on.

If you study the gearing of the bikes on the tour right now, you will see thay have the '10%' gear. It will probably never be used, but is fitted JIC.

As a starter, use the 'quicky' method to find a gear length for a 10%. If your existing gearset has lower, all well and good. If it hasn't, fit a smaller inner ring or larger sprocket cassette.

As you gain experience riding your bike, your body and physique will adapt to the new demands. It will get easier ( loss of weight ) and feel easier ( increased muscularity ).

I would suggest you not go spending any more money on the bike, but continuously re-try those hills.

There will be a limit to the gradient your bike will climb. 34 x 26 is the same as 30 x 23, and that just about gets me up a 14% at 4 mph.

Any steeper than 14% and I'm thinking about getting off, or wishing I'd fitted the 25 sprocket.

When the riding speed gets below walking speed do I finally jump off and push. On 20% hills.:blush:

Not this again :evil:
 
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