Just collected bike ftom LBS - brake still rubbish!

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I'm able to lock front and rear wheels with mechanical BB7s, assuming your brakes are not faulty, it's all the more likely it's down to installation errors. The only problems I've ever had with them is rubbing of the pad, but that was cheap aftermarket discs that were not dead true. Not all mechanical callipers are equal, cheap tat is cheap tat. But the same could be said of hydraulics, so it is not saying much.

The main benefit of hydraulics is not having to worry about dialing in the pad as they wear, but it's a quick job once you know how. I would argue that the increased complexity of fluid filled lines over cable actuation is a drawback for home mechanics. But that's a preference thing. Claims that hydraulics offer 'superior' modulation may have a grain of truth, but in the real world, there's little difference. I'm able to lock my wheels easily, yet I've never been thrown over my handle bars, so claimed 'superior' modulation carries little real world benefit. Being able to achieve an emergency stop as quickly as possible with adequate modulation and bracing, without the risk of being thrown over the bars is the definition of well functioning brakes. Regardless of the type of brake, if you can lock your wheel, it's not possible to stop any sooner.
 
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si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
I'm able to lock front and rear wheels with mechanical BB7s, assuming your brakes are not faulty, it's all the more likely it's down to installation errors. The only problems I've ever had with them is rubbing of the pad, but that was cheap aftermarket discs that were not dead true. Not all mechanical callipers are equal, cheap tat is cheap tat. But that is not saying much. The main benefit of hydraulics is not having to worry about dialing in the pad as they wear, but it's a quick job once you know how. I would argue to increased complexity of fluid lines over cable actuation is a drawback for home mechanics. But that's a preference thing. Claims that hydraulics offer 'superior' modulation may have a grain of truth, but in the real world, there's little perceptible difference. I'm able to lock my wheels easily, yet I've never been thrown over my handle bars, so claimed 'superior' modulation carries little real benefit. Being able to achieve an emergency stop as quickly as possible, without the risk of being thrown over the bars is the definition of well functioning brakes.Regardless of the type of brake, if you can lock your wheel, it's not possible to stop any sooner.
Modulation is more about the control and feedback that you get from the hydraulics compared to cable disc brakes - total power is as you say broadly the same. Having ridden both I find that there is more feedback through the levers with Hydraulics and a better control of the brakes not to mention that hydraulics require significantly less force at the levers than cables.
 
Yes, but my point is if you have the requisite level of control to bring the bike to a safe emergency stop, any incremental increase in control is redundant. The point about the force needed is fair, I've noticed that too, but unless you've got problems with your grip strength, maybe like an injury or disability, the reduction in force applied is nothing to write home about.

It's a bit like moving from 10 speed to 12 drive train, nice to have, but if your range remains the same, then you don't really need to upgrade, as you'll not be able to climb any faster with the extra cogs between.

Don't misunderstand me, I'm not arguing that people need to swap out their hydraulics for cable disc callipers, it's just that there's not THAT much to gain from moving one way or the other. One thing is for sure, is that for those that don't know better, they might be duped into thinking what they have isn't the pinnacle of technological advancement, and that sells bikes. Mechanical brakes work perfectly fine if they are set up correctly, and anyone suggesting they don't is probably trying to justify money spent on upgrades.
 
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JPBoothy

Veteran
Location
Cheshire
Not on either side of this discussion btw. Am about to install TRP Spyres.
What happened when you locked your front BB7 brake on dry tarmac while riding along, please?
Sorry for the late post on this subject but, did you fit your Spyres, and if so are you pleased with them? The reason that I ask is because I 'like many others that I've read about' was disappointed with the stopping power of the Promax mechanical brakes than came as standard on my Cannondale CAADX so I decided to take a chance on the TRP Spyres instead. Having the dual pistons 'clamping' around the rotor rather than having just the one moving piston/pad 'pushing' the rotor against the slave/static pad seems to have reduced the annoying squealing noise too. I opted for a used set of Calipers which I stripped, cleaned and re-assembled using new pads and inner/outer cables to maximise the performance. I knew that they would never be as powerful as a hydraulic disc brake but they are much better than what I had previously.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Glad your experience has validated your decision to fit TRP Spyres.
No - frameset not yet built up. I have procured cables and outers ready to fit, using 'compressionless' outers to minimise the 'pause' as the levers are squeezed. I am considering using new pads as opposed to the current (used) ones in situ.
I have minimal disc brake experience - and almost none on road bikes - so provided they seem to be better than rim brakes and don't squeal I shall be content.
 
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keithmac

Guru
I've only ever had Shimano hydraulic disc brakes, my lad has Tektro hydraulic and neither have had any bother.

Any brake that can't lock a back wheel up or spit you over the handlebars is not fit for purpose.
 

figbat

Slippery scientist
Don’t forget the cables - mechanical disc calipers benefit from compressionless cable outer, which regular brake cables aren’t. I have Spyres on my home-brew gravel bike and they are OK, but not as good as hydraulics. I recently put some sintered pads in them which did improve things compared to the worn organics that came out.
 
I have Spyres with the correct compressionless outers and I’d say they’re slightly worse than say Shimano or Campagnolo rim brakes with swissstop pads and no where near as good as any hydro brakeset but more than enough to stop quickly with the added benefit of all weather consistent stopping power which is why I have them on my damp weather club ride bike.
 

JPBoothy

Veteran
Location
Cheshire
I have Spyres with the correct compressionless outers and I’d say they’re slightly worse than say Shimano or Campagnolo rim brakes with swissstop pads and no where near as good as any hydro brakeset but more than enough to stop quickly with the added benefit of all weather consistent stopping power which is why I have them on my damp weather club ride bike.
This has also been my first time with mechanical discs and I was pre-warned not to expect too much from them. However, compared to my Promax Renders that came as standard on my CAADX the TRPs are noticeably much better. I didn't purposely opt for a bike with discs (but liked the rest of the spec) and if given the option I would have prefered to have the same centre pull canti's that are on my other 'older' CAADX. They are ugly to look at but will stop you in a fraction of the time the discs take. The Tektro 'side-pull' canti's on my SS bike also have amazing stopping power (possibly the best ones I have had) but admittedly neither would be as good as even a poor performing mechanical disc brake on a soggy day.
 
Yeah riding in the wet or damp and hearing the rims being eaten alive is what pushed my to road discs, it rains most days here even in the best weather ie today my 50 loop this afternoon half was damp and as it’s never flat anywhere rims just don’t last, discs make sense
 
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