Salty seadog
Space Cadet...(3rd Class...)
Gave a whole rear mech a deep clean the other day including jockey wheels. Opened them up and cleaned and regreased. First time i've done it, a simple job.
Jockey wheels, maintenance?
- Thread starter Blue Hills
- Start date
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- Tags
- wheels
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Salty seadog
Space Cadet...(3rd Class...)
The top and bottom ones are different. Make sure you know which is which when you have them off.
OP
OP
- Location
- London
Yes, on the ones I just changed, the top was marked "G" as I recall, which stands for I know not what.
OP
OP
- Location
- London
Sorry to be a bore but do you use any special sort of grease? Light or heavy? Or just any grease you have to hand?
Might be my imagination (and I did change the chain at the same time) but the bike does seem to run better.
Salty seadog
Space Cadet...(3rd Class...)
I've heard people say a light grease, I use teflon grease as that's what i have around. I don't think it really matters, just get it in there.
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
- The top pulley has sideways 'float' (about a millimetre) it's how Shimano got indexing to work. Older derailleurs didn't have this and occasionally the sideplates of the chain would ride on top of the cog if you 'fluffed' a gearchange (I'm looking at you Simplex
- I inherited a tin of Shell 'Retinax A' about 30yrs ago, it's nearly all gone now so I'm trying a tube of modern white stuff, not as good but then the old (Possibly pre-war but certainly 50s at the newest) is a water resistant grease.
- How very dare you.
Many years ago I serviced my 1st index capable rear mech ( a Shimano 'New 105') and although it wasn't indexed on the Carlton I fitted it to putting them back wrongly resulted in the changing being as bad as the Simplex one that was wrecked when a lorry ran it over. When I found out that the wheels were different I was able to rectify it but I only found out when I went to buy some new ones that what I'd thought was wear on one of em (and had therefore put it at the bottom) was actually part of the design.
'New 105' fitted in about 87 to my 1967 Carlton Clubman
Heltor Chasca
Out-riding the Black Dog
Here’s a snippet of advice I could do with learning: What is the difference? Let’s also assume I didn’t take note of which was which when I removed them.
I run Shimano Deore XT and 105s. Thanking you.
Salty seadog
Space Cadet...(3rd Class...)
I don't know if there is a difference in construction but on sub 10 speed the top one has a little float, sideways motion. this is not the case in the 10/11/12 speed bikes as the float then contributes to poor shifting as the cogs are closer together together and tolerances tighter.
OP
OP
- Location
- London
Just replaced an ultegra set.
Top one marked G.
And bottom one had directional arrows. Remarkably when all was back together I had managed to get the arrows pointing the right way.
Edit - a sensible 9 speed.
OP
OP
- Location
- London
Sounds like a job for my big tub of wilko stuff
https://www.wilko.com/en-uk/wilko-multi-purpose-grease-tub-500g/p/0039759
As it is lighter than some of my other greases. And a nice light colour so it would show up any muck that HAD managed to get in.
U
User6179
Guest
Guide
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Earlier this year I replaced worn jockey wheels (OEM Shimano ones with bushings) with a pair of BBB (£10 the pair) ones with bearings. The two were identical (ie there wasn't a top/bottom designation nor one with a 'G' on. They've only done 4000k so far.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/jockey-wheel-maintenance.213572/ for pictures.
Anyone find a decent explanation of what improvement in effectiveness using jockey wheels which are top/bottom designated (and fitted the correct way round) offer over a pair which are the same.
I've read all the stuff about the top one needing sideways float but (having searched) can find no decent explanations.
https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/jockey-wheel-maintenance.213572/ for pictures.
Anyone find a decent explanation of what improvement in effectiveness using jockey wheels which are top/bottom designated (and fitted the correct way round) offer over a pair which are the same.
I've read all the stuff about the top one needing sideways float but (having searched) can find no decent explanations.
. Mind you that was a while ago lol
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
It seems 10 speed up no longer need the float,
Never owned a Shimano 10/11/12 speed and my 653 TT bike has Campagnolo 10 speed mind you I've never stripped that down (it's only got around a thousand miles on it since I built it up.
