Is it really worth knowing your cadence?
- Thread starter MrVandal
- Start date
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I cycle purely for leisure and never bothered with cadence until I got a new cycle computer. I found when I kept my cadence between 85 - 95 at all times I was much less tired and longer trips were easier. If I went below 75 often I tired easier.
So basically same response as tyred but I used computer to experiment with.
So basically same response as tyred but I used computer to experiment with.
Bill Gates
Guest
- Location
- West Sussex
Do we really need to know this? Why?
You don't need to know your cadence to ride your bike.
OTH the more enthusiastic and motivated you are to ride faster and further; then the more you will want to appreciate, understand, and learn the finer points of developing riding skills to enable you to do those things. I would assume that in asking the question you are reaching that stage right now.
Those that ride at a high cadence (spin) will wax lyrical on the benefits. Those that ride at a low cadence (grind) will also claim their method works best. The answer as always lies somehwere in the middle of the two extremes. There are some sound physiological reasons to suggest that at a fast cruising speed (30 mph) then a cadence of 95-100 rpm is the most efficient.
http://www.pponline..../encyc/0965.htm
When I raced a 10 miles TT I maintained a cadence of around this level. OTH if climbing a drag then the rpm would drop to a lower level as one could focus on a push/pull circular technique.
There are whole threads on here devoted to the subect of cadence. Once you start to monitor your cadence you tend to pedal more quickly. It is an acquired skill and needs practice. Essentially when you first start to ride with a high cadence it will seem strange and you might end up going slower. It will take you a couple of years before you master the technique properly and then as you develop your fitness by improving VO2max and LT then the practice will be worthwhile.
My own theory is that if you pedal around 100-105 rpm regularly in training particularly winter months when you are buildinga base of steady miles @ 65/70% MHR then without conscious thought you are learning to pedal efficiently. At slower rates of rpm the body will move about on the bike more losing energy.
Edit: The same question asked here and debated earlier this year
http://www.cyclechat...ce-data-useful/
walker
New Member
- Location
- Bromley, Kent
Who wants to open the Armstrong - ulrich Debate?
Good post Bill.
I would also add that if you ride any distance on a singlespeed freewheel or single fixed, it is advisable to get a handle on your natural cadence for pushing the bike along at a comfortable cruising pace, then you will be able to fine tune the gear.
As Bill says, he found his comfortable cadence for riding on the flat and when a hill appeared, his cadence dropped. On a singlespeed, this happens and there will be a gear which suits flat and hills. The steeper the hill, the lower the speed and cadence. When you become a master of spin and grind; and get the gear right for you, long rides on a fixed will be a real treat.
Owners of Sturmey AW3 will know that the range of ratios is not wide enough; and the steps between gears is too wide. The bike can be geared for mostly hills or geared for mostly flat. Knowing my natural cadence, I can use an 18, 19 or 20 rear sprocket depending on the terrian I'm to ride.
I would also add that if you ride any distance on a singlespeed freewheel or single fixed, it is advisable to get a handle on your natural cadence for pushing the bike along at a comfortable cruising pace, then you will be able to fine tune the gear.
As Bill says, he found his comfortable cadence for riding on the flat and when a hill appeared, his cadence dropped. On a singlespeed, this happens and there will be a gear which suits flat and hills. The steeper the hill, the lower the speed and cadence. When you become a master of spin and grind; and get the gear right for you, long rides on a fixed will be a real treat.
Owners of Sturmey AW3 will know that the range of ratios is not wide enough; and the steps between gears is too wide. The bike can be geared for mostly hills or geared for mostly flat. Knowing my natural cadence, I can use an 18, 19 or 20 rear sprocket depending on the terrian I'm to ride.
I found when using a computer with cadence it was good at teaching me to move into a harder gear instead of spinning out just as much as grinding (i.e. helped me stay in the zones of 80-110). They are not needed as Bill put it but can aid you in learning a comfortable speed.
When I learned to drive, not all cars had tachos. You had to feel the engine through the seat and gearstick to avoid it labouring or over revving.
The same is true on a bike. You have to feel the pains in your legs to get the revs right.
In this modern era, everyone wants ( or needs ) a clock, dial or readout to tell them everything. My new car has an 'upshift prompt' lamp in the instrument cluster ( because Ford know some drivers haven't got a clue )
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To find out what cadence suits you, go for three 200 km Audax rides. Ride the first at a deliberately LOW cadence. The following weekend, ride the second at a deliberately HIGH cadence. The next weekend, ride the third at the cadence that comes naturally.....
and don't worry what the numbers are. From the previous two weekends, you will know what cadence NOT to pedal.
The same is true on a bike. You have to feel the pains in your legs to get the revs right.
In this modern era, everyone wants ( or needs ) a clock, dial or readout to tell them everything. My new car has an 'upshift prompt' lamp in the instrument cluster ( because Ford know some drivers haven't got a clue )
.To find out what cadence suits you, go for three 200 km Audax rides. Ride the first at a deliberately LOW cadence. The following weekend, ride the second at a deliberately HIGH cadence. The next weekend, ride the third at the cadence that comes naturally.....
and don't worry what the numbers are. From the previous two weekends, you will know what cadence NOT to pedal.
Chrisc
Guru
- Location
- Huddersfield
I just got a cadence sensor and find that the average which I'm comfortable at is around 80-85. I reckon this is my natural cadence. I can happily climb at that rate without using the lowest gears. If I try climbing at a higher cadence of 100-110 I go no faster but I do get knackered quicker. Seems my aerobic capacity isn't up to twiddling.
