Is changing from 10 spd 11-32 to 11-36 that noticeable for steeper hills ?

[Guitars and Bikes]

Pushing it.

I think (but you'd need to look this up for yourself) that the 10 Speed GS 105 rear mech has a max sprocket of 32. Now, lots of people say this can be exceeded with a bit of judicious fiddling of the B screw so you might be OK.

The other question would be would your RD have sufficient capacity. With a 50/34 and 11-36 you'd need a capacity of 41 which I think (but you'd need to check) would exceed the capacity of a 10S 105 GS RD which I think is 30-odd.

So look up the max sprocket and capacity of your particular rear mech.

Oh I forgot to mention , my rear derailleur is the 105 medium type which has a longer cage.

 

[Guitars and Bikes]

Oh I forgot to mention , my rear derailleur is the 105 medium type which has a longer cage, if I buy the 11-36 deore and use the wolftooth, there wont be any issues like pull ratio using it with my 105 groupset.....is this correct ?

 

[ColinJ]

I do a lot of my riding singlespeed so I am used to using cadences of 20-100 rpm. That is why I am not fussy about gaps in cassettes these days. I used to notice them more in the past. Now, I would probably just stay as long as possible in one of the 2 gears with the gap between them.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Oh I forgot to mention , my rear derailleur is the 105 medium type which has a longer cage.

Well assuming that you have a RD-5701 GS rear mech, which I think (but don't know) is the latest 10 speed 105 series then if you trust SJS cycles (and why not) https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/derailleurs-rear/gs-shimano-105-rd5701-10-speed-rear-derailleur-black/ then we learn that:

- Maximum low sprocket 32T with double chainset (GS)
- Maximum front difference 22T, total capacity 40T (GS)

So that, absent of a Wolftooth or anything fancy, and assuming you have 50/34 at the front, then: You'd be exceeding the max sprocket by 4T and you'd be exceeding the capacity by a measly 1T.

So it might be worth a shot without the Wolftooth. Or maybe not. I don't know, I've never done it.

Pull ratio wise I think you're fine. You have a 105 shifter and a 105 mech and I don't think the sprocket spacings vary between different 10S cassettes. But what the hell do I know?

Terms and conditions apply. I am an idiot. You would not trust me to change channels on your TV.

 

[Guitars and Bikes]

Well assuming that you have a RD-5701 GS rear mech, which I think (but don't know) is the latest 10 speed 105 series then if you trust SJS cycles (and why not) https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/derailleurs-rear/gs-shimano-105-rd5701-10-speed-rear-derailleur-black/ then we learn that:

- Maximum low sprocket 32T with double chainset (GS)
- Maximum front difference 22T, total capacity 40T (GS)

So that, absent of a Wolftooth or anything fancy, and assuming you have 50/34 at the front then: You'd be exceeding the max sprocket by 4T and you'd be exceeding the capacity by a measly 1T.

So it might be worth a shot without the Wolftooth. Or maybe not. I don't know, I've never done it.

Pull ratio wise I think you're fine. You have a 105 shifter and a 105 mech and I don't think the sprocket spacings vary between different 10S cassettes. But what the hell do I know?

Terms and conditions apply. I am an idiot. You would not trust me to change channels on your TV.

Im just hovering on ordering the 11-36, just want to make sure I dont buy the wrong thing.

My RD is 5700 105 GS and I do have a wolftooth if needed.

 

[Guitars and Bikes]

I do a lot of my riding singlespeed so I am used to using cadences of 20-100 rpm. That is why I am not fussy about gaps in cassettes these days. I used to notice them more in the past. Now, I would probably just stay as long as possible in one of the 2 gears with the gap between them.

LOL 20 RPM, I would love to see a video of that

 

[ColinJ]

LOL 20 RPM, I would love to see a video of that

It isn't pretty!

It would be when muscling the bike up 10% or so. I can only manage a couple of hundred metres like that before my legs give up.

If you think that you will ever tackle 20-25%, go for the 40. If 15% would be the steepest, the 36 should be fine.

 

[Guitars and Bikes]

It isn't pretty!

It would be when muscling the bike up 10% or so. I can only manage a couple of hundred metres like that before my legs give up.

If you think that you will ever tackle 20-25%, go for the 40. If 15% would be the steepest, the 36 should be fine.

I ordered the 11-36 and will give it a go. 20%+ aint on my radar without a towrope pulling me up lol

 

[Ming the Merciless]

If you think that you will ever tackle 20-25%, go for the 40. If 15% would be the steepest, the 36 should be fine.

Depends on rider, I used to tackle 30% on 30/28 in the days I rode upright bikes more often.

 

[ColinJ]

Depends on rider

How about a rider who is thinking about using a 34/36 climbing gear because 34/32 feels too hard...?

I typed "you", meaning @Guitars and Bikes, not "one", meaning all cyclists!

 

[Ming the Merciless]

How about a rider who is thinking about using a 34/36 climbing gear because 34/32 feels too hard...?

I typed "you", meaning @Guitars and Bikes, not "one", meaning all cyclists!

Then 36 may be enough for the gradients being considered as that’s a fairly decent change in low gear compared to what they have. If you truly come across a once in a blue moon hill you you can’t get up as it’s too steep for too long, then no shame in walking for a bit.

 

[Tigerbiten]

An average derailleur gear step is around 15%.
36/32 = 1.125 or a 12.5% step.
So dropping to 36 from 32 is equal to an other gear down.
You'll notice this.

 

[Jameshow]

Yes Tregaron where I stopped at the shop for supplies. Some proper seated climbs along the way.

View attachment 706231

Fair play on a 'bent!