Is accurate use of a hanger alignment tool dependent on a true wheel.

[Salty seadog]

Definitely a superb tool to purchase and use regularly. It’s anazing how very small knocks affect shifting quality.

As above, use the same point on a wheel as a reference point, the valve being the most obvious.

Which one do you have?

 

[slowmotion]

Which one do you have?

You know you want to buy one. Why resist?

 

[Salty seadog]

You know you want to buy one. Why resist?

With 4 derailleured bikes I think I owe it to myself to get one. Just a question of which one. Probably doesn't make masses of difference. I like the park tools stuff and whilst generally very positive reviews there is a question mark over the delecate nature of the rubber o ring doda for holding the position of the measuring arm.

I'm slowly building up my tool box and skills set as with the single speed that's 5 bikes to keep in good order.

 

[bpsmith]

Which one do you have?

Park Tool. Had it for about 4 years now and the O rings are fine and had no issues with them moving when I didn’t want them too.

One other tip I have learnt is that it takes more effort to bend the hanger in the vertical plane than the horizontal one, so always start adjusting vertically first as it can move the horizontal position when doing so. It just saves time that way.

 

[winjim]

The proper tool is inexpensive and a lot less faffy than having to mess about taking wheels off other bikes and removing cassettes and all that palaver. Don't worry too much about the o-rings, if it comes to it you can always just use your finger as a gauge.

 

[Salty seadog]

@winjim @bpsmith
Right, so manipulating a hanger in a carbon frame. One definitly has ally inserts in the dropout, not sure about the other. I trust they are up to the strain. Also do you use the tool itself as leverage to do this?

 

[winjim]

@winjim @bpsmith
Right, so manipulating a hanger in a carbon frame. One definitly has ally inserts in the dropout, not sure about the other. I trust they are up to the strain. Also do you use the tool itself as leverage to do this?

I've never owned or worked on a carbon bike but on the frames I have worked on, I've always used the tool as a lever. Only gently though, you don't need to move it much or with great force. Remember the length of the bar is amplifying any small misalignments in the hanger itself.

 

[Salty seadog]

I've never owned or worked on a carbon bike but on the frames I have worked on, I've always used the tool as a lever. Only gently though, you don't need to move it much or with great force. Remember the length of the bar is amplifying any small misalignments in the hanger itself.

Yep well aware.

 

[bpsmith]

@winjim @bpsmith
Right, so manipulating a hanger in a carbon frame. One definitly has ally inserts in the dropout, not sure about the other. I trust they are up to the strain. Also do you use the tool itself as leverage to do this?

Both bikes are carbon and not had any issues so far.

 

[fossyant]

Make sure the wheel is in, before you start bending stuff. If the hanger is way off, I'd buy a new one, as aluminium doesn't like being bent back ! Be careful, small adjustments.

 

[slowmotion]

Hangers tend to be 6061 aluminium alloy with a T651 temper. They have reasonable cold formability/workability so you can bend them gently ( within reason) without risk of stress fractures.

 

[Salty seadog]

You know you want to buy one. Why resist?

On it's way.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/..._dc|pcrid|254173057411|pkw||pmt||prd|546386UK

 

[slowmotion]

On it's way.
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/..._dc|pcrid|254173057411|pkw||pmt||prd|546386UK

Entirely splendid!

 

[Ajax Bay]

They have reasonable cold formability/workability so you can bend them gently ( within reason) without risk of stress fractures.

Yes, but.
If you need to bend the hanger back to vertical, it will have been bent out of vertical already. So bending an alloy hanger (back) to 'about right' should be a temporary measure, while the rider finds and procures a replacement hanger. You can't see the grain boundaries and the microcracks inside the hanger exploited/created by the shear stresses of a 'bend': it has been weakened and straightening it will weaken it further (but the gears should work better). Try and do the 'bend back' in one move, not a series of little ones. Be firm and bold and have the wheel in the dropouts and the QR up tight (to minimise frame flexing confusing the bending extent). If it breaks in this boldness, better it breaks in your hands at 0mph.

 

[bpsmith]

Yes, but.
If you need to bend the hanger back to vertical, it will have been bent out of vertical already. So bending an alloy hanger (back) to 'about right' should be a temporary measure, while the rider finds and procures a replacement hanger. You can't see the grain boundaries and the microcracks inside the hanger exploited/created by the shear stresses of a 'bend': it has been weakened and straightening it will weaken it further (but the gears should work better). Try and do the 'bend back' in one move, not a series of little ones. Be firm and bold and have the wheel in the dropouts and the QR up tight (to minimise frame flexing confusing the bending extent). If it breaks in this boldness, better it breaks in your hands at 0mph.

On the basis that the tool requires the rear wheel to be firmly in place, in order to gauge relative alignment, that goes without saying.