Internal cable routing kits

[Fifelad]

Although I have mastered replacing all my internally routed cables on my cube, I was thinking of investing in one of these kits to ease the pain of literally lying on my back with a head torch on eventually pulling the gear cable through the bottom bracket exit point with a pair of long nosed pliers 🙄 Anyhoo, as usual Park Tools are the most expensive, but I have noticed alternatives online. Opinions please from anyone who has used these kits.

 

[boydj]

If you are changing internal cables, the the smart thing to do is to leave either inner or outer in place when removing old cable, or pulling some thread through with the inner so that you always have something in place to guide a cable through.

I have used a kit which relies on magnets when starting from scratch on a new frame. After a lot of experimenting, I found the best way was to feed the guide cable in the reverse direction using a strong magnet on the outside and the feeder cable with the magnetized tip on the inside. The kit can be very useful both starting from scratch and when replacing cables.

 

[JoeyB]

I bought the Park Tool kit and love it. I did a Di2 install on one of my bikes and didnt even have to take the BB out (but I did have a removable access hatch below it) to route the cables. Worked well routing cables through some tough spots on my handlebars too.

As long as the cheaper alternatives have a similar size/strength magnet and the same variety of connectors then I'm sure they'll be fine.

 

[mpemburn]

I tried the Jagwire kit (which also uses magnets), and it was a nightmare! The magnetic end came off the cable and got lost inside the top tube. I ended up taking off the wheels and shaking the frame around until it spilled out of the opening for the derailleur cables down near the bottom bracket. Pfui. I sent the kit back.

Subsequent to this fiasco, I came up with a solution that works brilliantly: I got a length of vinyl tubing from the hardware store that has an outside diameter small enough to fit through the entrance hole for cable. I fished this through the top tube until it was close to the exit hole. I then attached the end of the tubing to my shop vac (using a lot of duct tape to make a decent seal), then put a some heavy thread near the exit hole. A brief pulse on vac switch was enough to suck the thread right through.

After detaching the vac and pulling off the tubing, I could then attach the thread to the cable. The best way I’ve found was to attach it with super glue. Once through, you can nip off the end, finish the assembly, and Bob’s your uncle!