Immovable cassette??

[bobg]

Just spent 2 hours try to shift a cassette using a Park chainwhip with 2 foot to steel tubing bolted to the end and a simlar lump of tubing slotted over the end of the wrench holding the removal tool. Wife supporting the wheel resting upright on the ground, neighbour getting a partial rupture on the shifter and me on the chain whip!! It's not rusted in cos its quite a new cassette and max leverage causes the chain whip to twist like a torsion bar!! Anybody got any alternative suggestions please ( before I chuck the whole thing in the dustbin!! )

 

[mickle]

Cassette or freewheel?

 

[mickle]

And I'm guessing you don't have a vice....

 

[gbb]

Hopes its not a cassette, they should be remarkably easy to remove.
As Mickle says, access to a vice ?

 

[Smokin Joe]

Obviously it's the lockring which won't budge? Assuming you are not turning it the wrong way (it does happen) perhaps the thread was crossed during initial fitting.

 

[stargazer]

Had slight difficulty removing cassette from my wheel the other day. It wouldn't budge despite giving the spanner on the lockring removal tool a couple of hefty whacks with a mallet. Squirted some WD40 into the lockring thread, gave it five minutes, and then with just a bit of muscle power I was able to remove the lockring.

As Smokin Joe says, check you're not turning the wrong way; there's a video for using the FR5 tool on the Park Tool website.

If you're using the skewer to hold the lockring tool in place then don't overtighten it (I doubt if that would prevent you getting initial movement of the lockring though).

 

[mickle]

Obviously it's the lockring which won't budge? Assuming you are not turning it the wrong way (it does happen) perhaps the thread was crossed during initial fitting.

Obviously I thought it was worth checking.

 

[bobg]

Bulk reply... yup definately a cassette cos I put it on and I can see the freehub splines at the back, plus I made that mistake once before and was straining at a screw on 7 speed sprocket with a chain whip, felt an absolute prat when my mate in the bike shop chucked the wheel on the removal tool held in the vice and gave it a quick turn

I've given ita couple of days of plus gas too but to no avail. Pretty sure its not cross threaded and that I'm turning it the right way but its a worthwhile reminder.

I have a pretty big vice but the problem is holding the cassette stationary while turning the removal tool anti clockwise. I even tried turning the wheel upside down and securing the sprocket cluster in the vice using alloy protective jaws and then trying to turn the removing tool "upside down" from inside of the vice jaws ( does that make sense?? )

Another day tomorrow so I'll attack it again with renewed vigour.

 

[bobg]

Yup, holding the extractor with the skewer, one click would be music to my ears. I hate using an adjustable, note to self " buy a socket for this job in future"

 

[HLaB]

The first time I changed a cassette; I never I gave up on the brute and took the wheel to a lbs, within seconds they had it off (not like fnarr thinks ).

 

[mickle]

Put the skewer through the tool and hub - put the tool in the vice - apply the chain whip.

 

[e-rider]

this is simple - you wont remove it.

If the lockring is the cheaper steel shimano type, they are incredibly strong and as a result you can easily overtighten them (without it breaking) when you fitted it. Due to the nature of the design, if you tighten these things up loads, they NEVER come off again!

Next time, grease the threads of the lockring and stick to the recommended torque (which I think is about 40 (ish) Nm)

The higher end shimano lockrings are lighter and will snap if overtightened (as I found out) but only cost about £5 for a new one.

 

[mickle]

this is simple - you wont remove it.

.....

I don't agree, I've never met a cassette lock ring which could resist my charms.

 

[RecordAceFromNew]

I have a pretty big vice but the problem is holding the cassette stationary while turning the removal tool anti clockwise. I even tried turning the wheel upside down and securing the sprocket cluster in the vice using alloy protective jaws and then trying to turn the removing tool "upside down" from inside of the vice jaws ( does that make sense?? )

Another day tomorrow so I'll attack it again with renewed vigour.

Indeed, am unsure why that didn't work, but if the problem was the jaws Sheldon suggested using an old disposable chain by wrapping it around the sprocket with the vice grabbing the free ends (perhaps keeping the wheel vertical). With enough leverage on the lockring tool secured by qr, I would have thought it will loosen unless something breaks first...

 

[zacklaws]

Next time, grease the threads of the lockring and stick to the recommended torque (which I think is about 40 (ish) Nm)

I usually tighten the lockring up till it feels tight enough, but just did one a couple of months back and tightened it up to 40nm for once, noticed that I had done something wrong so I had to remove it immediatley, and it was a nightmare to loosen off, never again will I tighten up to 40nm.