Im unfamiliar with the freewheel tool i need.

[curzons246]

If you want to get at the freehub bearings don't you take it off and get at it from the back? I'm more of a freewheel man myself lol

View attachment 590588

The newer freehubs are removed with an Allen key but that doesn't appear to be the case with the uniglide so it's still attached to the hub.

 

[midlife]

Ah, so it's the one at the bottom of this article so should just slide off?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#transplant

 

[curzons246]

Ah, so it's the one at the bottom of this article so should just slide off?

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#transplant

Yes mines the early one, no bulge it dosnt just slide off. I'll try and apply some assistance tomorrow. Thanks for your help..

 

[fossyant]

A large hex key usually removes them. Most from drive side, others from non-drive side. Anything from 10-12mm

 

[curzons246]

A large hex key usually removes them. Most from drive side, others from non-drive side. Anything from 10-12mm

Not on this Fossyant, smooth round axle tube

 

[GuyBoden]

It's a Shimano Uniglide, I have one in the garage, you can use two chain whips to remove the cassette, or use a big hex key to remove the whole hub, I would then replacing it with the newer Hyperglide hub.

Each sprocket on the Uniglide cassette are separate, so you can swap them to the other side when they wear.

Not on this Fossyant, smooth round axle tube

Edit: I'll go into the garage and check the hex key size.

 

[GuyBoden]

It's definitely a Uniglide cassette/hub that you have.

I've just checked in my garage, a 10mm Hex is needed to remove my Uniglide Hub.

Hopefully your hub has not seized onto the wheel splines. Galling corrosion between the aluminum splines and the steel hub can seize the hub onto the wheel.

 

[curzons246]

It's definitely a Uniglide cassette/hub that you have.

I've just checked in my garage, a 10mm Hex is needed to remove my Uniglide Hub.

Hopefully your hub has not seized onto the wheel splines. Galling corrosion between the aluminum splines and the steel hub can seize the hub onto the wheel.

Thanks for your trouble Guy. As I was advised above I read the Sheldon Brown article and my early UG with no bulge on the hub is held in place by the bearings I will however try a 10mm hex key tonight to settle this for me. Cheers Bill.

 

[andrew_s]

It's a Shimano Uniglide, I have one in the garage, you can use two chain whips to remove the cassette, or use a big hex key to remove the whole hub, I would then replacing it with the newer Hyperglide hub.

Each sprocket on the Uniglide cassette are separate, so you can swap them to the other side when they wear.

Shimano haven't been consistent over the years with the hub shell to freehub body interface, so fitting a hyperglide freehub body may not be possible, or at least not without transplanting the outer part of a hyperglide freehub body on to the inner part of your uniglide freehub body (Youtube).

It's worth trying to preserve your uniglide sprockets because replacement cassettes are very rare.
All the sprockets except the screw-on top gear are reversible which helps a lot, and uniglide sprockets are quite a lot harder wearing than hyperglide sprockets (at least double, plus another doubling for the reverse sides of the teeth.

Fitting a hypeglide cassette onto a uniglide freehub can be done, but it's not easy - you've got to disassemble it, and file/grind the wide spline of each sprocket narrower, so it's the same width as all the others, and you'll still need the screw on uniglide top gear sprocket.
There were some hybrid freehub bodies which had hyperglide splines and both an external thread for uniglide and an internal thread for hyperglide, but good luck with finding one

 

[curzons246]

Shimano haven't been consistent over the years with the hub shell to freehub body interface, so fitting a hyperglide freehub body may not be possible, or at least not without transplanting the outer part of a hyperglide freehub body on to the inner part of your uniglide freehub body (Youtube).

It's worth trying to preserve your uniglide sprockets because replacement cassettes are very rare.
All the sprockets except the screw-on top gear are reversible which helps a lot, and uniglide sprockets are quite a lot harder wearing than hyperglide sprockets (at least double, plus another doubling for the reverse sides of the teeth.

Fitting a hypeglide cassette onto a uniglide freehub can be done, but it's not easy - you've got to disassemble it, and file/grind the wide spline of each sprocket narrower, so it's the same width as all the others, and you'll still need the screw on uniglide top gear sprocket.
There were some hybrid freehub bodies which had hyperglide splines and both an external thread for uniglide and an internal thread for hyperglide, but good luck with finding one

 

[curzons246]

Thanks for the info Andrew. I plan to keep the bike original but if it comes to it I have a 1055 rear hub which has the hybrid free body you talk of.

 

[rogerzilla]

The bearing race unscrews clockwise using the two notches and, ideally, special tool TL-FH40. Few people ever bother, since it's the least important bearing on a bike and spares, apart from the actual balls, are unobtanium. Just oil it from the back, once it's off.

 

[curzons246]

The bearing race unscrews clockwise using the two notches and, ideally, special tool TL-FH40. Few people ever bother, since it's the least important bearing on a bike and spares, apart from the actual balls, are unobtanium. Just oil it from the back, once it's off.

Thanks for your advice Roger. Seems I can adapt a 21mm socket in place of TL FH40. I can see where I'm going now, thank you all.

 

[rogerzilla]

Have fun! There aren't many balls inside compared to a typical freewheel. Shimano BMX freewheels have 96, and they are pretty small (1/8").

 

[DRM]

View: https://youtu.be/LJ5I4OQjgz0

Have a look at the above video from 3:14 it shows this exact freehub/cassette combo in detail